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Author Topic: About time temps below freezing in Ma  (Read 1902 times)

johnybcold

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About time temps below freezing in Ma
« on: December 12, 2012, 06:37:15 AM »

It is about time it was 28 last night, I like my winters cold and snowy, got my elec bill for Nov $165 I gotta find a cost effect way to get some elec. 
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Ohiowood

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Re: About time temps below freezing in Ma
« Reply #1 on: December 12, 2012, 09:06:24 AM »

Hey jonny,

My last bill was 145.00

With a a small heat pump for a second area set to 58 degrees , and rest of the normal stuff In my house.  My bills would normally be around 400 to 600.
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Roger2561

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Re: About time temps below freezing in Ma
« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2012, 10:45:32 AM »

Guys - How are your 1400's running?  Mines been running great other than having to clear those dang air holes of creosote build up.  From Dec. 24th though January 2nd, where I work closes for that duration of time and I plan to use that time to start fitting in a different design.  If it works, I post pics of what I did.  One thing I have noticed however, is that the creosote is not as heavy when it's cold outside due to the OWB having to cycle more.  Roger
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dwneast77

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Re: About time temps below freezing in Ma
« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2012, 03:20:34 PM »

Roger -    I think you and I exchanged some thoughts on this at an earlier time?  You saw the picture of what I did with my E-2300??  I'll add it again here.  I too, am considering a re-design when I have a few bucks. 

I feel there is something to be said for introducing the primary air near the bottom of the firebox as the original design does.  My first design does work very well, though I still need to restrict the primary air flow a bit,  tried the other day but the solenoid is down as low as I think I can put it already.  So I may for now just screw in a bushing on each side of the T and see what that does. 

For my re-design, I'm thinking this...   The original design had my air channel welded to the sidewall and had a flat top sort of making a notch in the wall.  You can see it in the picture.  That's where the original design called for 2 lifts of firebrick to be layed in against the wall.  So if I come out through the back wall with my 2" pipe to a T, first one aiming up and down, have a nipple go down to rest on the firebox floor again as I have now (allowed for extra support for the design I'm using now, but also a creosote drain).  On the top side, put a short nipple up to another T aiming crossways and pipe to each side, then elbow toward the front.  I could piece it all together using nipples and T's for outlets.  Add bushings into the T's to restrict flow a bit.  And the side pipes could be sized down to maybe 1" or 1 1/4".  Have maybe 3 or 4 outlets up each side and I would have them blow down at an angle toward the coal bed.

 I think there is a lot to be said for air directly at the fire.   With the original air channels I did have a more even coal bed.  Now it is more centrally located  at the nozzle.  Also, on each of the Ts used for outlets (elbows in each end I would say) I would use bushings on the outlets to size them down.  And finally, regarding the bushings, have bushings with smaller holes at the back and get slightly larger at the front as there is less air pressure remaining there.  This would mimic the original design pretty close, but would be removable for cleaning.  I also have the added benefit of allowing the new channel to rest on top of the old one.  In your case, at the front end of your channels, provided you are doing a similar design, you could elbow down with a nipple to the firebox floor to support it on each side. 

Something else I have going for me is that I've already added the spacer bar kit (bars hanging down my sidewalls to keep the wood away and allow air around it better.  I don't know about your setup since I think you have them built in.  With my add on bars, they can rest against my air pipe to keep the wood from fetching up on the air pipe.

This is my $0.03 worth.  It's a bit more than $0.02 I think.  Given my experience with what I've already done and learned, I think this is a good plan.  I think you already have similar thoughts.  Hope my ideas can be of some help.  Good luck!!  and keep us posted!!

Jeff

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boilerman

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Re: About time temps below freezing in Ma
« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2012, 05:07:36 PM »

CB has made a lot of changes/improvements on their Eclassic models. The one thing that seems to remain consistant is the firebox air injection low over the coal bed via air channels. I believe there is a reason for this. Seem to get the best gasification burn and highest reaction chamber temps when have a good hot glowing coal bed. The best way to get a good hot glowing coal bed? Blow air directly on/into it. May require more cleaning but must be necessary. I don't see how your tee up high in the box would work well or be worth voiding a warranty for. If you had the temp probe in your reaction chamber like my 2400 does, I think you would see the difference in reaction chamber temps as well. The spacer rods on sidewalls were a good improvement.
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dwneast77

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Re: About time temps below freezing in Ma
« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2012, 05:52:08 PM »

2 reasons I did what I did when I did it.  The Portage and Main Opt. 250 brings air in at the top and guys are really happy with that unit.  I've seen nobody too upset with it yet.  Also I have a Wood Doctor that brings the air in up next to the fill door high in the firebox.  It was a quick and easy fix.   As for the warranty??  What warranty really.  They don't want to pay much.  I was lucky to get money back on this fix.  My dealer has seen the picture of what I did and he still worked it with the company to get it paid for but basically told me that anything else they would just rule as corrosion and not cover.  I feel I don't have a warranty left anyway.  However,  everything I've done is completely reversible and with the exception of the brackets on the back wall nobody would ever know I did anything.  The original air channel can easily be welded closed again.  Still the remaining problem of cleaning it out, however.  It's still full now.  Even with the back end open as it is now I don't know a good way to clean it out.

I agree with the air over the coals.  Nothing makes a fire hotter than that.

Right now, even though my fire/coals are not spread accross the entire floor, my fire is hotter than it ever was.  I mean that.  When I open my combustion chamber door I often have flames coming to the door and going up the HX tubes.  Heats very quickly.  I'm getting more BTU's than it is rated for I'd say and less smoke than ever.  Even when new, it was never smoke free.

Jeff
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Eastern Maine (near Calais)
Central Boiler E-2300
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Stihl 290 Farmboss
Craftsman 27 ton Splitter
JD 870 Tractor