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[CL-Ohio]

ok fellow woodcutters apparently I hadn't purchased bar oil this year yet. but the other day paid $12 a gallon for the stihl brand. You guys finding anything cheaper. I see Baileys has priced cheaper haven't got the shipping quote. They normally can't be beat on chain prices.

[Jason]

I was just at Tractor Supply last night.  It's $8.99/gal for their brand.  I typically like to use the Stihl stuff, but I'm starting to look around too.  Too expensive to not at least try some others.

[ckbetz]

I have been using Poulan oil from Walmart.  I think the last I bought was in the 6-7 dollar range.   I can't see any difference in it really.

[Scratch]

I've been using the cheap stuff at Fleet Farm also.  Haven't used the good stuff but if I did... I doubt I'd be able to tell the difference anyways.

[BA]

I have had the same chain saw (John Deere 50V) for 30 years. For the first 10 of those years all I did was heat my house with wood. The saw came with an Oregon bar on it. I now live on 10 acres of land which I still cut wood with the same saw and bar. What I use is filtered oil out of the crankcase of my cars/truck. I take a gallon of oil and mix it with a pint of STP oil treatment or Wal -Mart equivelent  (well 15 oz. I think). That is what I have done for the better part of 30 years. . All I do is put a "t" shirt over a funnel and pour the oil over that to make sure that no grit that gets into the bottle. My brother always found it incredible that I did this but as I explained to him would it have hurt my car engine if I ran that oil in it for another couple of seconds before i changed it? He now does the same thing.

[Jason]

You know, that's an interesting point.

[John D]

I have had the same chain saw (John Deere 50V) for 30 years. For the first 10 of those years all I did was heat my house with wood. The saw came with an Oregon bar on it. I now live on 10 acres of land which I still cut wood with the same saw and bar. What I use is filtered oil out of the crankcase of my cars/truck. I take a gallon of oil and mix it with a pint of STP oil treatment or Wal -Mart equivelent  (well 15 oz. I think). That is what I have done for the better part of 30 years. . All I do is put a "t" shirt over a funnel and pour the oil over that to make sure that no grit that gets into the bottle. My brother always found it incredible that I did this but as I explained to him would it have hurt my car engine if I ran that oil in it for another couple of seconds before i changed it? He now does the same thing.

      BA,great use of used oil.  The only thing ill add is the STP or in my case Lucas oil additive is important as it tackifys the oil,thickening it,and helping it stick 2 the bar.I was going to start doing the same as you,as oil prices are nuts now.I remember buying bar and chain oil from Agway 20 yrs ago for 1.75 a gallon.I bought a bunch of it,but now im buying husvarna oil or tractor supply brand.I like the husky oil better,but its thicker,so i cut it w cheap 10w30 in winter 50/50.

[ouch]

I run 30 viscosity cheap motor oil in the winter. it's no different than husqvarna's winter bar oil.
in the summer I tend to run TSC or Husqvarna bar oil though.

[maine owb]

My neighbor does a lot of tree work and he uses any used motor oil he has on hand and says he never has had a problem.
I have not tried that.

[jackel440]

I just stopped at rural king and picked up a gallon and it was 6 bucks plus tax.I think i will be saving all the oil from oil changes and using it also.

[charlie]

I use to do line clearance , the stick saws we used in the bucket oiled the chain from the hydraulic oil that ran the saw, which ran the bucket. On my own ground saws, I've used vegetable oil with some STP added. Remember you want the oil to stick to the chain, not fly off as it spins. Regular bar oil usually has some Tac or cling additive to help keep the oil on the bar. So if I run any oils other than bar oil , I just add a little stp for cling. Just my 2 cents.