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1
Portage & Main / Re: BL 28-40 blower fan making some noise.
« on: February 11, 2018, 06:29:43 PM »
Anyone have a source for a blower fan in the US? If not, will ping P&M.
2
Portage & Main / Re: 28-40
« on: May 10, 2016, 04:23:40 PM »
For what it's worth, never saw adding water as a sore point. When I see the level going down, I just crack the water valve open a second to add water into the loop inside the house. No need to fill from outside.
Next time I feed it more wood, if it's still a bit low, I give it a bit more. If I had to add 2 gallons all Winter, I would be surprised.
I think this is acceptable loss since I see steam from it occasionally just as the aquastat kills the fan when it reaches max temp.
As far as smoke, I don't think you can avoid it but can be reduced. I just crack the ash tray open to allow a draft if the fan is off. I have made the mistake of loading wood into it and forgetting to close the ash tray because of a phone call that interrupted my normal procedure.
So now, before I go out to load wood, I increase the temp on house thermostat to get the boiler hot. This reduces the smoke that would be sitting inside looking for the path of least resistance, which seems to be the door due to the baffle in the back of the boiler. With an active draft in process, it makes loading wood less of a smokey procedure. Sometimes I get treated to coals burning with blue flames. It kills me to add wood and drop the temp of the boiler but -20 temps require more fuel to make it through the night. Again, all makes sense to me and just had to learn its behavior and adapted mine.
All in all, have been very happy with my boiler. I am grateful for the help from many people here that have made the path energy independence from oil much easier.
Next time I feed it more wood, if it's still a bit low, I give it a bit more. If I had to add 2 gallons all Winter, I would be surprised.
I think this is acceptable loss since I see steam from it occasionally just as the aquastat kills the fan when it reaches max temp.
As far as smoke, I don't think you can avoid it but can be reduced. I just crack the ash tray open to allow a draft if the fan is off. I have made the mistake of loading wood into it and forgetting to close the ash tray because of a phone call that interrupted my normal procedure.
So now, before I go out to load wood, I increase the temp on house thermostat to get the boiler hot. This reduces the smoke that would be sitting inside looking for the path of least resistance, which seems to be the door due to the baffle in the back of the boiler. With an active draft in process, it makes loading wood less of a smokey procedure. Sometimes I get treated to coals burning with blue flames. It kills me to add wood and drop the temp of the boiler but -20 temps require more fuel to make it through the night. Again, all makes sense to me and just had to learn its behavior and adapted mine.
All in all, have been very happy with my boiler. I am grateful for the help from many people here that have made the path energy independence from oil much easier.
3
Site Suggestions / Re: No upload memory
« on: January 25, 2015, 05:59:48 PM »
Much appreciated!
Would help if I would read and do as stated above. Apparently I cant read.
My preview now at least shows a broken image. So I need to figure out what I am screwing up now pointing to my images stored on Google.
Would help if I would read and do as stated above. Apparently I cant read.
My preview now at least shows a broken image. So I need to figure out what I am screwing up now pointing to my images stored on Google.
4
Site Suggestions / Re: No upload memory
« on: January 25, 2015, 04:26:51 PM »
I have tried using Google but have not been successful. I made sure file is accessible by trying the link manually.
<img>https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_5wGe2Aa7PuOTN1S2Z2NzdQSjA/view?usp=sharing</img>
Any suggestions how to link from Google's GDrive? Thought I could just cut and paste the link in between the <img></img> tags.
Would be willing to donate some funds to purchase additional storage for this forum so people can upload directly.
<img>https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_5wGe2Aa7PuOTN1S2Z2NzdQSjA/view?usp=sharing</img>
Any suggestions how to link from Google's GDrive? Thought I could just cut and paste the link in between the <img></img> tags.
Would be willing to donate some funds to purchase additional storage for this forum so people can upload directly.
5
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: digital water temp gauges
« on: January 19, 2015, 07:56:15 PM »
Have setup a small computer to collect temps from sensors tie-wrapped onto the pipes. The thing is the temps dont match actual water temps but once you know what the external temp is when internal temp reaching say 185, then you have a baseline of what is 'normal'. So for me external temp of the pipe will be 160 when water temp is 185.
I can then monitor temps of loops in the heating system from my iPad or smartphone. Also have it text or email me when temps get too high or low. For example, if the boiler temp gets too low, I know there is an issue (out of wood, power loss, coal bed too deep and air not getting thru). I have it alert me before it gets too low and I can correct the issue before house temp would drop.
I can then monitor temps of loops in the heating system from my iPad or smartphone. Also have it text or email me when temps get too high or low. For example, if the boiler temp gets too low, I know there is an issue (out of wood, power loss, coal bed too deep and air not getting thru). I have it alert me before it gets too low and I can correct the issue before house temp would drop.
6
Portage & Main / Re: BL 2840 - NorthWest Maine
« on: January 19, 2015, 07:16:18 PM »Curious if using the '<img src=" URL"> works. Preview shows 'broken' image but hoping when posted it might work?
Interesting that I cant reference/link to an image from Google share....If I am missing the obvious, this is embarrassing.
7
Portage & Main / Re: BL 2840 - NorthWest Maine
« on: January 19, 2015, 06:50:50 PM »
This is a link to a screenshot from iPad. Again, keep in mind these are external temps of my pipes. So I can see what a baseline is when up to temp. Then I know what is 'normal'. I have it email me when temps get to a set point of being too low or too high.
Let me know your thoughts or suggestions on what you would do or improve.
<img>https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_5wGe2Aa7PuRlF1R0dLZ0pnWU0/view?usp=sharing</img>
Let me know your thoughts or suggestions on what you would do or improve.
<img>https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_5wGe2Aa7PuRlF1R0dLZ0pnWU0/view?usp=sharing</img>
8
Portage & Main / Re: BL 2840 - NorthWest Maine
« on: January 19, 2015, 06:15:16 PM »
Used a little Linux system called a Raspberry Pi in conjunction with DS18b20 temp sensors. I have code that tracks the temps of the various loops in my system by the hour, day, week, month and year. I also poked a sensor outside my home, so I can see the outside temps to see how my system behaves against real temps.
It is interesting to see how often the boiler has to cycle based on draw from my forced air system or heater in garage. Will see if I can post some pics of my data to give you an idea of what I have setup.
It is interesting to see how often the boiler has to cycle based on draw from my forced air system or heater in garage. Will see if I can post some pics of my data to give you an idea of what I have setup.
9
Portage & Main / Re: Too much?
« on: January 19, 2015, 06:06:02 PM »
Not sure but think some have come up with this as the reasoning for the fire brick material going partially up the wall or a benefit for it. Agree, it seems like a silly thought but some people just overthink things and myth becomes factual info.
Even if completely wrong, if you state it over and over enough times, it eventually becomes true. Such as the economy is largely improved and unemployment is at record lows. =)
Even if completely wrong, if you state it over and over enough times, it eventually becomes true. Such as the economy is largely improved and unemployment is at record lows. =)
10
Portage & Main / Re: Portage and Main bl 28-44
« on: January 19, 2015, 05:58:10 PM »
Yep. With coals, will see blue flames when its burning more efficiently. However doesnt last for long because coals burn out soon thereafter and its time to load it up with cold wood to start the process all over again.
As cheap as oil has become over the past few months, still have my house warmer than I would have with oil heat and still smile saving money in the process. I also like to think I am contributing to the oil glut because I havent burnt a drop of oil for heat since 3/2014.
As cheap as oil has become over the past few months, still have my house warmer than I would have with oil heat and still smile saving money in the process. I also like to think I am contributing to the oil glut because I havent burnt a drop of oil for heat since 3/2014.
11
Portage & Main / Re: Do i go with the BL2840 or the BL3444. I'm on the edge!
« on: January 19, 2015, 05:52:39 PM »
Currently running the BL2840 heats my leaky house and garage along with DHW. Have had temps close to -20 and windchills down to -45 so far this year. This is my first year, so burning green beech, which is not ideal or efficient. However shortest run time I have had was 10 hours. Not once did this the 2840 fall behind.
My thoughts would be to buy the model that would burn HOT the majority of your winter weather. Also make sure it can keep up with demand on the worst nights.
I have a few sensors on my various sections of my heating system including the boiler temps. I have this saved into a chart. I can show you the history of my temps over the past two months in conjunction with outside temps. Might give you an idea of how it performs.
Then again, if you plan on heating more space than you currently have now, then think you should consider the 3444. Buy it and setup once.
Thats my two cents based upon very little experience but have been reading about these systems for a few years before making the leap myself. I can fully endorse P&M system over its competitors. I have had neighbors and friends who have other systems confirm these are a setup above some of the more common boilers out there.
My thoughts would be to buy the model that would burn HOT the majority of your winter weather. Also make sure it can keep up with demand on the worst nights.
I have a few sensors on my various sections of my heating system including the boiler temps. I have this saved into a chart. I can show you the history of my temps over the past two months in conjunction with outside temps. Might give you an idea of how it performs.
Then again, if you plan on heating more space than you currently have now, then think you should consider the 3444. Buy it and setup once.
Thats my two cents based upon very little experience but have been reading about these systems for a few years before making the leap myself. I can fully endorse P&M system over its competitors. I have had neighbors and friends who have other systems confirm these are a setup above some of the more common boilers out there.
12
Portage & Main / Re: BL 2840 - NorthWest Maine
« on: January 14, 2015, 10:38:53 PM »
Have compiled some code, sensors tie wrapped to various portions of my boiler plumbing. This shows me what temps each are and updates once a minute.
Ww
Havae it alert me via text/email if temp gets too hot or cold.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_5wGe2Aa7PuMHItSnAwcFhfbUU/edit?usp=docslist_api
Ww
Havae it alert me via text/email if temp gets too hot or cold.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_5wGe2Aa7PuMHItSnAwcFhfbUU/edit?usp=docslist_api
13
Portage & Main / Re: BL 2840 finally up and running
« on: January 14, 2015, 09:48:55 PM »
Agree. I had some air I just could get out despite trying to force it to the bleeders. After a few days of running, suddenly temps climbed to what I expected. Shining a light thru the logstor pipe where exposed may bubbles or air trapped at an angled section of pipe.
I too initially had water dripping from chimney section at the back of the boiler. I was advised to remove the set screws and reseat it tighter, then refasten the screws. Not sure why this helped. Only thing I can think of, cold air getting in updraft causing condensation.
Make sure nothing is sitting on top of chimney. When I first installed my boiler, I put the block off plate on top to keep rain out while I did the plumbing. Luckily I remembered to pop it off but with all the excitement of firing it up for the first time, stuff can happen.
I too initially had water dripping from chimney section at the back of the boiler. I was advised to remove the set screws and reseat it tighter, then refasten the screws. Not sure why this helped. Only thing I can think of, cold air getting in updraft causing condensation.
Make sure nothing is sitting on top of chimney. When I first installed my boiler, I put the block off plate on top to keep rain out while I did the plumbing. Luckily I remembered to pop it off but with all the excitement of firing it up for the first time, stuff can happen.
14
Portage & Main / Re: Too much?
« on: January 14, 2015, 09:38:32 PM »
I have the BL2840 as well and loving my very comfortable home and garage. As temps have dropped close to -20, I have filled it 90% of the way. The only side effect I have seen is that the coal bed prevented air from coming thru from the bottom and started to choke the fire causing temps to drop until I raked it open a bit. Once I did that temps popped right back up. I am burning mostly green beech, so your results may vary with type of wood and how well seasoned.
Just sharing my experience and learning its behavior.
I think I have read the suggestion of not filling wood past the firebrick so that the acidic ash doesn't contact the metal directly. Personally, think that's overthinking the potential problem. I say fill as needed to keep it burning hot for up to 12 hours. Keeping it hot prevent condensation or any moisture from staying in the firebox.
Again, by no means an expert on anything but that's my logic to the question. Time may prove me wrong.
Just sharing my experience and learning its behavior.
I think I have read the suggestion of not filling wood past the firebrick so that the acidic ash doesn't contact the metal directly. Personally, think that's overthinking the potential problem. I say fill as needed to keep it burning hot for up to 12 hours. Keeping it hot prevent condensation or any moisture from staying in the firebox.
Again, by no means an expert on anything but that's my logic to the question. Time may prove me wrong.
15
Portage & Main / Re: Black chimney top
« on: January 14, 2015, 09:27:47 PM »
For what it's worth, same with my BL2840. No occasional chimney fires like my buddies boiler.