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[oldchenowth]

I just installed a Wood Doctor HE 5000 and apparently have a bubble in the line that will not allow free flow with the pump.  Now for the stupid part.  What would be recommended to place in line to burp the system now and in the future?  Looking for off the shelf (Menards, Lowes, etc.) to help fill and purge easier.

yes, I am a rookie.

Thanks,
rich

[dirtryder]

I installed a "T" at the highest point on my loop and put a piece of pex, then a barb to pipe thread fitting and installed a "petcock" to open manually to let air out. When I initially filled my boiler, I checked for air and had none. Do you have a fill hooked in basement to fill boiler with water? I installed a shut off so I could fill down stream as well as upstream (sorta "backfill").
Are you pumping from the "bottom" fitting and returning to the "top" fitting on the boiler?
BTW, you will constantly be checking the HE5000 to see if it's lit because it burns so clean. I drove myself nuts at first doing that.   TRUST me, take my wifes advice......leave the dang thing alone......
I love my Wood Doctor HE.
Any questions I'll try to help you out.

[oldchenowth]

At this time I do not have a fill valve in the basement.  I filled from the bottom drain on the boiler figuring it would act like filling a lower unit on a boat with
oil, pushing the air out on top of the water level. Not so much luck.  I do have the lines hooked up properly, bottom being suplly and top return.  I read your
post yesterday and headed of to Menards and got a fill valve for a boiler system to "backfill" and fill down stream.  I might as well isolate the radiator and pump while I have it tore apart.  It is all my fault, it's cooling off at night and I was trying to rush things along and skipped a step I guess.  Will the air in the boiler release it self
from the reservoir tank or should I open my second building valve to help release the air?  I heard it gurgle in the tank and opened the top return valve
to depressurize, did I intrduce air to the system by doing that?

Thanks for your help.

Rich

[yoderheating]

 A fill line should solve your problem. When we install a furnace we always fill with a fill valve at the house. Open the fill valve and take turns closing the supply and return at the furnace. This should push any air from the lines of both sides.

[dirtryder]

I agree with Yoder, after you install a fill in the house, you should be good. Like he said, alternate closing feed return valves and it should work. I never had to worry about the boiler, it seems that all the air goes out the overflow tank. Actually, when I fill mine, eventually water will to come out the overflow fitting (black 90 on boiler) especially when it's coming up to temp from expansion, then it finds it's "level" onm it's own. I do have black lines for hi and low levels on site tube.
Let us know how you make out.

[oldchenowth]

Added a fill valve in the basement and refilled with great success.  My wife had it at 82 in the house within hours of building the fire.  Not too sured I like it that hot int he house, but I can't complain, that is why we installed it.  Still can't get past checking every couple hours to see if the flame is out.  Guess it is a learned thing.  So far I really like this unit.  True test will be in January when it's really cold and I find out just how little insulation the old farm house has in it.  Sorry propane boy,  not gonna get my paycheck a second time!

I did run into a road block with the thermostat.  I am not smart enough to make a new electronic one work so I found an old mercury t stat, reworked a couple wires and it works like a champ.  A constant 75 day or night.  The thing that blows my mind is how little smoke this thing produces.

Kudos to Arthur and John Turple.  Lots of help along the way, and one week into it, a very good product.

Rich

[Arthur Turple]

You Wood Doctor's owner installation manual has a whole section on purging the air while filling the furnace with water from inside of your home.  First shut off the supply ball valve on the back of your Wood Doctor and have all water fill from the return for 5 minutes.  Then close the supply valve and open the return ball valve.  Fill rest of way with water.  This will flush out all air out of your pipes and heat exchangers.
Arthur, Wood Doctor