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1

Equipment / Re: Harbor Freight Sharpener

« on: March 12, 2012, 06:36:06 AM »

Have you checked the depth gauges?  They must be filed down as you file the chain back.  Your chain manufactures should have the specs on how much lower the top of the depth guage should be than the top of the cutting edge.  Easy way to check is to lay a straight edge accross the top of the chain, if the cutting edge and the depth guage are at the same height the cutter won't be removing any wood.

2

Plumbing / figuring head

« on: March 04, 2012, 04:58:25 PM »

Looking for info on figuring head on a OWB system I'm wanting to install.  Does anyone have any numbers on how many equivalent feet to add for 1 inch tees, elbows, full port ball valves, unions, 24x24 heat ex, 12x12 heat ex, and 20 plate. 

Many thanks
James

3

Heatmor / Re: cordwood\oil burner

« on: February 21, 2012, 06:59:39 PM »

tbone

Thanks for the additional info.  How long of burn times do you get out yours with wood only?  I'm looking at heating about 1900 sq ft, have a 500 ft attached garage that I would occasionally (few days a month) put a little heat in, and DHW for 4.  Well insulated single story brick house in southern Kentucky.  Any thoughts on whether the 100 would be big enough?

4

Heatmor / Re: cordwood\oil burner

« on: February 20, 2012, 08:08:48 PM »

tbone

Thanks for the info. I assume your burning coal in yours since you got the shaker grates?  Kind of curious how well you like the sand and firebrick bottom and how well the ash auger works.  Also what model do you have, SQ footage heated, burn time and what part of the country.

Thanks

5

Heatmor / Re: cordwood\oil burner

« on: February 18, 2012, 08:43:45 PM »

I did hear about it at the show, Got to do some checking to make sure its legit.  They do have some different designs on theirs, mainly the firebox.  Good or bad? I don't know.  It makes sense but I can see some drawbacks and some positives.  Not sure if I like the expansion bladder, something else to have to eventually replace.  I do like the high limit aquastat to dump heat if it starts to overheat and there is something to be said for a company that has been making OWB's for 20 to 25 years.  I also have 2 dealers within @ 45 minutes and the regional dist is @ 1.5 hours away.  I've pretty much narrowed it to the Heatmor and Heatmaster.  Local heatmaster dealer is questionable and the next nearest is 2 - 2.5 hours away.  It appears that both are good stoves and I would probably be happy with either.

6

Heatmor / cordwood\oil burner

« on: February 18, 2012, 07:25:56 AM »

Wondering if anyone had any experience with the Heatmor wood\used oil burners?  Is there much trouble, maintence, etc with the oil burner or does it run pretty smoothly once you get it dialed in?  Kentucky has a 50% tax credit for recycling equipment that I've been told these qualify for.

7

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Need a bigger stove!!!

« on: February 12, 2012, 04:21:59 PM »

I can't really help with your question as I don't own an OWB but I'm thinking about a heatmaster OWB. I would appreciate your input to decide if and what size to get.

1. Are you heating domestic hot water for either home?
2. How well insulated are the 2 homes?
3. What area of the country are you in and what is a "cold" night?

8

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Dealers Attending the National Farm Machinery Show?

« on: February 09, 2012, 03:19:59 PM »

Are any of the dealers on this site planning on having a booth at the National Farm Machinery Show in Louisville next week?

9

Plumbing / Anyone used this insulated pex?

« on: February 08, 2012, 09:12:58 PM »

Saw some eZe Flex Silver insulated pex made by Z supply (http://www.z-supply.com/home%20page.htm) at a dealer the other day and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it or comments on it versus the 3 or 5 wrap Low-E insulated Pex.

10

HeatMaster / Sizing Help 3000 or 5000

« on: February 08, 2012, 09:03:14 PM »

Looking at purchasing a Heatmaster OWB and would like some input on which size.  I have a single story, 10 year old 1900 sq ft brick house built on a crawl space.  r15 walls, 15" blown fiberglass in attick, double pane windows, a 24 x 24 attached garage that I would like to occasionally warm up a little when working in and DHW for 4 people.  located in southwestern Kentucky (normal lows around 28 to 40, occasionall teens and single digits).  Will the MF3000 be sufficient or do I need to go to the MF5000?  I don't want to be filling the stove 3 times a day but can get the 3000 for about $1300 cheaper than the 5000.  The current 4 ton heatpack is rated at 92000BTU Heat Input, 75400 BTU Output Capacity.  Thanks for any input.

11

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Newbie needing advice

« on: February 04, 2012, 09:57:36 PM »

Thanks for the advice.  I thought of a few other questions.

1.  I assume that there are several companies making the 5 wrap, are any significantly better/worse than others?  If so which ones should be avoided?

2.  How is the wrap sectioned together and sealed?  Is it overlaped and taped, butted together and taped, other?

3.  What are your thoughts on using aluminum vs standard pex?  I understand fittings may be harder to find but would it help in long runs (175 ft) for expansion issues?

12

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Newbie needing advice

« on: February 03, 2012, 09:14:23 PM »

Hello all.  First post but have been reading for about a month.  I’m contemplating purchasing and installing an OWB and looking for some advice on insulating the underground lines.   I will have @100 ft from furnace to crawlspace and then @ 75 ft to heat exchanger.  I live in Western KY and high groundwater is not a problem.  I was thinking about installing  2 1” Pex lines in 6” cellcore DWV schedule 40 and insulating each line with ¾ wall semi slit Polyethylene foam (advertised R 4.7).  Cost would be @ 7.40/ft. Could save @ 1.15/ft. if I used two 3”PVC instead of the single 6”.  Would ½” wall insulation be sufficient or go with the ¾”?  I know water inside pipe = trouble but would think properly glued PVC should be as water tight as anything and definitely tougher than the corregated tile. I thought about putting a Y where the line comes up to the furnace and basically making a riser that you could cap off and use to pump water out of the line if it was ever a problem.  Do you ever have problems with a pex line going bad and leaking?  If so I would think it would be possible (not easy though) to pull and replace a line if done this way.  I know the premade stuff is really god but if I can save $500 to $700 and have something as good I’ll definitely put in a little labor.  Many thanks for your thoughts or suggestions.