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16
Pools & Hot Tubs / Re: Somewhat passively, and inefficiently heating a pool
« on: August 11, 2014, 02:50:01 PM »
Thank you CountryBoy...
That is a agood point...
what type of return temps could shock system?
That is a agood point...
what type of return temps could shock system?
17
Pools & Hot Tubs / Somewhat passively, and inefficiently heating a pool
« on: August 11, 2014, 01:46:36 PM »
Just bought a used 15' above ground pool as a temporary solution to the sheer expense of an inground...
living in upstate NY, wouldn't mind a little boost to my water temp every now and then, keep the wife happy...want to keep my expense to a bare minimum.
Woodmaster 4400 plumbed with 1" pex to a heat exchanger in the basement.
Here is my thought:
Put a T and a shut off valve in each line at the back of the furnace. After the valve put a 1" or 1 1/2" hose fitting after the valve.
When spring and fall hit and my house is not needing my furnace going full blast all day, hook up enough hose to run from the exit at the backof the furnace, into the pool, run a few rings inside the pool and send it back to the return line...So...bypass my heat exchanger and radiators for a few hours each day
figure 180 degree water circulating in a hose inside the pool will jump it a few degrees and it will only cost me a few pieces of firewood each day. Boiler would be running anyway...
When I am done, roll the hose up until the next fall/spring.
What is the major flaw with my plan? Thoughts? Concerns with materials?
living in upstate NY, wouldn't mind a little boost to my water temp every now and then, keep the wife happy...want to keep my expense to a bare minimum.
Woodmaster 4400 plumbed with 1" pex to a heat exchanger in the basement.
Here is my thought:
Put a T and a shut off valve in each line at the back of the furnace. After the valve put a 1" or 1 1/2" hose fitting after the valve.
When spring and fall hit and my house is not needing my furnace going full blast all day, hook up enough hose to run from the exit at the backof the furnace, into the pool, run a few rings inside the pool and send it back to the return line...So...bypass my heat exchanger and radiators for a few hours each day
figure 180 degree water circulating in a hose inside the pool will jump it a few degrees and it will only cost me a few pieces of firewood each day. Boiler would be running anyway...
When I am done, roll the hose up until the next fall/spring.
What is the major flaw with my plan? Thoughts? Concerns with materials?
18
Equipment / Husqvarna 562 xp saw not oiling
« on: March 16, 2014, 02:07:16 PM »
Hi all,
I have a Husky 562 xP, purchased in December, has run 15 tanks of gas through, recently...last couple days, the oiler has stopped putting out enough oil to work correctly. Came set up with oiler adjustment in middle position. Just tried turning it up, still not putting out oil as it should.
What are the steps to trouble shoot this problem? What should I look for? Should I just take straight to dealer?
Thanks
I have a Husky 562 xP, purchased in December, has run 15 tanks of gas through, recently...last couple days, the oiler has stopped putting out enough oil to work correctly. Came set up with oiler adjustment in middle position. Just tried turning it up, still not putting out oil as it should.
What are the steps to trouble shoot this problem? What should I look for? Should I just take straight to dealer?
Thanks
19
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Furnace Filling
« on: February 02, 2014, 06:01:36 AM »
Happy Groundhog and Super Bowl Sunday everyone,
I have seen, over the course of quite a few message strings, several people mention that they do not pack their furnace full of wood. They have said that packing the furnace full wastes wood.
I have always packed mine full but now am re-thinking this. The people on this forum all seem very knowledgeable and scientific about their furnaces...so...
is it more efficient not to pack your firebox full?
Is this still true for long burns?
What is the reasoning behind this?
Thanks in advance.
I have seen, over the course of quite a few message strings, several people mention that they do not pack their furnace full of wood. They have said that packing the furnace full wastes wood.
I have always packed mine full but now am re-thinking this. The people on this forum all seem very knowledgeable and scientific about their furnaces...so...
is it more efficient not to pack your firebox full?
Is this still true for long burns?
What is the reasoning behind this?
Thanks in advance.
20
Fire Wood / Re: Moving Firewood
« on: January 29, 2014, 04:57:49 PM »
Thanks Roger,
I have lurked around the forum for a little while...
been the best place to give me answers on where to start when issues come up...
seems like I learn something new every year...
I have lurked around the forum for a little while...
been the best place to give me answers on where to start when issues come up...
seems like I learn something new every year...
21
Fire Wood / Re: Moving Firewood
« on: January 29, 2014, 01:40:38 PM »
Here is what I do.
Took a flatbed hay wagon and put a little roof over it...Slope keeps the rain and the snow off me...
It holds just about a cord of wood so I move the wagon to my wood pile, load up and then move it back to the furnace.
Been doing this for three years, very happy with it.
the first couple years I had the furnace I tried
1. keeping my wood by the furnace...neglected to realize how far away my piles ended up when they were all full, too long of a walk with each piece of wood in the spring, plus a huge mess in the yard,
2. Tried moving pallets with the 3 pt hitch forks...it was ok but the wood was exposed, or i was messing with tarps...
this method is my favorite...looks like a vegetable stand though...
Took a flatbed hay wagon and put a little roof over it...Slope keeps the rain and the snow off me...
It holds just about a cord of wood so I move the wagon to my wood pile, load up and then move it back to the furnace.
Been doing this for three years, very happy with it.
the first couple years I had the furnace I tried
1. keeping my wood by the furnace...neglected to realize how far away my piles ended up when they were all full, too long of a walk with each piece of wood in the spring, plus a huge mess in the yard,
2. Tried moving pallets with the 3 pt hitch forks...it was ok but the wood was exposed, or i was messing with tarps...
this method is my favorite...looks like a vegetable stand though...
22
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod - Problem solved
« on: January 27, 2014, 04:59:04 AM »
Hey guys,
thanks for the suggestions...went out yesterday and got the problem solved...quick too..
In case anyone else with a Woodmaster ever has this problem...here is the steps I took to solve.
1. Rod has a hole through the end...Woodmaster baffle is a thin plate with a piece of square stock mounted on the top with a hole drilled through it...rod gets pinned to hole...easy enough.
2. Burned most of wood in furnace through...shoveled ashes out, the put coals aside in wheel barrow.
3. Put a few pieces of wood in the box to build up some height, lay a piece of plywood down on the wood...now I have a nice surface to lay on.
4. Looking down from the stack (now that it has cooled a little), line rod up through square stock
5. Slide damper plate back about 3 inches...do this by hand...In furnace, put nail or bolt through the end of the rod, now I can pull the damper piece back towards the furnace entryway.
6. Once the damper makes it to the front of the furnace, it can be removed, cleaned up, and re-inserted.
7. Feed rod in until it meets the damper piece...damper piece will tilt down just enough to align the rod's hole and the hole in the square stock...insert your bolt,,,and push the rod back into place.
Done.
I could not find a decent picture or description of this process...so if anyone else has this happen...i hope it helps.
When I built the fire back up, I had only lost about 15 degrees and that was with the house calling for heat...not too shabby.
thanks for the suggestions...went out yesterday and got the problem solved...quick too..
In case anyone else with a Woodmaster ever has this problem...here is the steps I took to solve.
1. Rod has a hole through the end...Woodmaster baffle is a thin plate with a piece of square stock mounted on the top with a hole drilled through it...rod gets pinned to hole...easy enough.
2. Burned most of wood in furnace through...shoveled ashes out, the put coals aside in wheel barrow.
3. Put a few pieces of wood in the box to build up some height, lay a piece of plywood down on the wood...now I have a nice surface to lay on.
4. Looking down from the stack (now that it has cooled a little), line rod up through square stock
5. Slide damper plate back about 3 inches...do this by hand...In furnace, put nail or bolt through the end of the rod, now I can pull the damper piece back towards the furnace entryway.
6. Once the damper makes it to the front of the furnace, it can be removed, cleaned up, and re-inserted.
7. Feed rod in until it meets the damper piece...damper piece will tilt down just enough to align the rod's hole and the hole in the square stock...insert your bolt,,,and push the rod back into place.
Done.
I could not find a decent picture or description of this process...so if anyone else has this happen...i hope it helps.
When I built the fire back up, I had only lost about 15 degrees and that was with the house calling for heat...not too shabby.
23
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« on: January 25, 2014, 08:43:57 AM »
She is much better looking than I am...so she wins that battle.
24
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« on: January 25, 2014, 06:32:40 AM »
I would rather wait but icome in the house smelling like a smoke stack and the wife is not a big fan...looks like I am doing it tomorrow
25
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« on: January 25, 2014, 06:24:28 AM »
That stinks, I thought that was going to be the answer.
I was hoping there was an easier way...
What is the best replacement pin to use?
I was hoping there was an easier way...
What is the best replacement pin to use?
26
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Woodmaster Baffle Rod
« on: January 24, 2014, 07:56:19 PM »
Hi guys,
Went out tonight, opened the chimney baffle on my Woodmaster 4400 and the rood kept pulling. It appears the that the pin that holds it to the plate is b roke. I think it is stuck in the closed position as I am getting hammered with smoke when the door is open.
Has anyone else encountered this problem? What is the process to fix it? It is dark and the fire was cookin' so it is not something I was going to tackle tonight but I would like to fix it asap as I come in the house smelling like I have a three pack a day habit.
Thanks!
Went out tonight, opened the chimney baffle on my Woodmaster 4400 and the rood kept pulling. It appears the that the pin that holds it to the plate is b roke. I think it is stuck in the closed position as I am getting hammered with smoke when the door is open.
Has anyone else encountered this problem? What is the process to fix it? It is dark and the fire was cookin' so it is not something I was going to tackle tonight but I would like to fix it asap as I come in the house smelling like I have a three pack a day habit.
Thanks!
27
WoodMaster / Woodmaster 4400 Baffle Rod Broke
« on: January 24, 2014, 07:55:31 PM »
Hi guys,
Went out tonight, opened the chimney baffle on my 4400 and the rood kept pulling. It appears the that the pin that holds it to the plate is b roke. I think it is stuck in the closed position as I am getting hammered with smoke when the door is open.
Has anyone else encountered this problem? What is the process to fix it? It is dark and the fire was cookin' so it is not something I was going to tackle tonight but I would like to fix it asap as I come in the house smelling like I have a three pack a day habit.
Thanks!
Went out tonight, opened the chimney baffle on my 4400 and the rood kept pulling. It appears the that the pin that holds it to the plate is b roke. I think it is stuck in the closed position as I am getting hammered with smoke when the door is open.
Has anyone else encountered this problem? What is the process to fix it? It is dark and the fire was cookin' so it is not something I was going to tackle tonight but I would like to fix it asap as I come in the house smelling like I have a three pack a day habit.
Thanks!
28
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: School me on Heat Exchangers - more questions
« on: November 29, 2013, 02:17:40 PM »
So,
by my count, I have a 50 plate exchanger in my basement...
which, according to willieG's numbers, is the correct size...it is adequately heating my home.
However,
my OWB is firing up a little too often for my taste...i understand it takes heat to heat a house...
what would upping it to a 70 plate exchanger do? would that bring more hot water to the radiator system with less heat loss? would that make me more efficient so I burn less wood?
If more plates are good...is there a way to link two together? Also, I have hard water...will corrosion and deposits afffect my efficiency?
Also, ITO , your idea to add the valves and hose bib...great idea...I will look at add that in the future.
by my count, I have a 50 plate exchanger in my basement...
which, according to willieG's numbers, is the correct size...it is adequately heating my home.
However,
my OWB is firing up a little too often for my taste...i understand it takes heat to heat a house...
what would upping it to a 70 plate exchanger do? would that bring more hot water to the radiator system with less heat loss? would that make me more efficient so I burn less wood?
If more plates are good...is there a way to link two together? Also, I have hard water...will corrosion and deposits afffect my efficiency?
Also, ITO , your idea to add the valves and hose bib...great idea...I will look at add that in the future.
29
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: School me on Heat Exchangers
« on: November 28, 2013, 02:36:42 PM »
you are correct idahohay.
We have an open, non pressurized system from the OWB to plate heat exchanger in the basement and then our interior zones are pressurized to baseboard radiators.
My question was how to size the plate heat exchanger and if anyone had advice for brand, etc...
Thanks.
We have an open, non pressurized system from the OWB to plate heat exchanger in the basement and then our interior zones are pressurized to baseboard radiators.
My question was how to size the plate heat exchanger and if anyone had advice for brand, etc...
Thanks.
30
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: School me on Heat Exchangers
« on: November 28, 2013, 09:46:20 AM »
How do I figure out size. I have long forgot