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Author Topic: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers  (Read 11342 times)

heat550

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #15 on: August 30, 2015, 12:04:48 PM »

Most heat exchangers will have 1" but 3/4" wouldn't be a problem. The pex is smaller than copper which is why I suggested going with 1"

Ok I used the orange pex vapor barrier on  the other house 1 inch on air exchanger.
My lines running from stove outside are pex al pex 1 inch . The change over is going to take alot of o rings and new clamp rings. I have 2 old kite tec fittings to replace also they seem to have
Corroding issue. Think there was a issue years ago. I had to replace
All the ones before at boiler.  Thanks for all info about baseboards it was a eye opener. Will keep you posted on out comes . kinda a big project.


Heat550
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slimjim

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #16 on: August 31, 2015, 03:34:40 AM »

Heat, reading back on your post, you said you are running 175 on and 180 off but at the top of your tank you are getting 190, that is a pretty large temp differential within the stove, do you think there is a possibility that your water is not mixing well within the stove or possibly your aqua stat is not registering the proper temps, how are you checking those temps?
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heat550

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #17 on: September 01, 2015, 01:41:53 AM »

Heat, reading back on your post, you said you are running 175 on and 180 off but at the top of your tank you are getting 190, that is a pretty large temp differential within the stove, do you think there is a possibility that your water is not mixing well within the stove or possibly your aqua stat is not registering the proper temps, how are you checking those temps?

Ok my default setting is 150f 155f on 170f 175f off on draft fan . But when it gets colder outside below -5f and its full of dry oak. when draft shuts off . Temp creeps up a bit for next about 15 mins+ . and It got as high as 190f this at top of tank .  Mine draws super hard at colder temps. I have a 4 foot chimney on it . I have a touch temp checker and a touch less one also .
My average was 150f 160f to the house . I kept it there as to keep it from going nuts at colder temps .  But you know this was 1996 200css and after reading I'm wondering if at colder temps it was tapping my draft fan door because it was drawing so hard. It might of needed a weight on it . But now don't forget I have a 5500 sqft heating load on the stove .  and even at -25f and wind
it would still cycle the fan on and off . so yes at that temp everything would be pulling heat big time . But thats when I noticed blue shades on chimney also :) Super dry oak is a pretty crazy force .  Do a search on my post about white flames . But now I get to relearn my new 400css well see what it does at 5500ft heat load :) double dragon :) Might not have to go out so much is my goal :)
and your right about mixing if math is correct I would of been at total 24 gpm + with the 3 pumps .. but thats another thing whats GPM on a 2 taco 007 and 011 with no pressure 1 inch line, smallest 3/4 in baseboards. and how did that much water circulate in a u shaped tank when I looked in there I didn't see any plates for mixing in the 200css I will have to look in the new 400css.

Heat550

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slimjim

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #18 on: September 01, 2015, 02:27:38 AM »

Without installing an actual flow meter or seeing your configuration it would be very hard to guess at the flow rate, I normally assume a flow of around 7 GPM with the 007 and about 20 GPM on the 26-99 but again pipe sizing and 90's definitely can cut that back drastically.
Did you ever check the water temp at the top of your boiler with the fan on or was that just with it off and seeing the temp creep?
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heat550

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #19 on: September 01, 2015, 02:54:26 AM »

Without installing an actual flow meter or seeing your configuration it would be very hard to guess at the flow rate, I normally assume a flow of around 7 GPM with the 007 and about 20 GPM on the 26-99 but again pipe sizing and 90's definitely can cut that back drastically.
Did you ever check the water temp at the top of your boiler with the fan on or was that just with it off and seeing the temp creep?

 Lets say even 7gpm with the 007 and 10gpm with the 011 that be 24 GPM on mine . Only was checking when fan shut off . I was like whats going on .

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heat550

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #20 on: September 12, 2015, 12:24:40 AM »

Without installing an actual flow meter or seeing your configuration it would be very hard to guess at the flow rate, I normally assume a flow of around 7 GPM with the 007 and about 20 GPM on the 26-99 but again pipe sizing and 90's definitely can cut that back drastically.
Did you ever check the water temp at the top of your boiler with the fan on or was that just with it off and seeing the temp creep?

Could I put in a flow meter in do they make them without braking the bank ?

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heat550

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #21 on: September 13, 2015, 03:18:52 AM »

Without installing an actual flow meter or seeing your configuration it would be very hard to guess at the flow rate, I normally assume a flow of around 7 GPM with the 007 and about 20 GPM on the 26-99 but again pipe sizing and 90's definitely can cut that back drastically.
Did you ever check the water temp at the top of your boiler with the fan on or was that just with it off and seeing the temp creep?

Bit of info my 1 pex can only supply 10 gpm  so no matter what I put in for a pump its not going over that. And I'm splitting it so my average will only be 4.5 to 5 throw 3/4 inch copper. So air exchangers will be 5 gpm.

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fireboss

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #22 on: September 13, 2015, 04:46:45 AM »

I agree with slim I don't think your water temp coming in the house is hot enough! I have my temp set on my stove at195  !  I use to ruñn it at 175  it made a big difference with my base bord,  mybe you loosing  heat coming thru your pex in the house!
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heat550

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #23 on: October 03, 2015, 02:59:55 AM »

From what you said, it sounds like you won't have any trouble adding the heat exchangers. Use 1" pex though. 3/4" will add a lot more restriction.


I was talking to guy at dealer about pump size . Im 125ft house to boiler 69 feet of baseboard and 6 zone valves one exchanger in garage 120,000.  now if I add another exchanger  will the one taco 011 push water thur all that ?  I have 1 inch pex between house and boiler and 3/4 copper in house . if i add exchanger it will be one inch pex .  dealers saying I should put another 011 going out on boiler return line .  I searched how to figure out head pressure theres a brain twister . also another pumps $200 . What do others do
to figure out head pressure on a semi open system .  I do know the one taco 011 I was running was making about 5-6 psi pump pressure. 1gpm to 10,000 btus .  Its seems GPM pretty hard to really know on a each system .

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slimjim

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #24 on: October 03, 2015, 03:13:35 AM »

Do you have temp gauges on the supply and return at the boiler, if so and under full load you are seeing more than a 20 degree differential between the supply and return then you will need to either up the pipe size or add another line set, adding a second circ on that short of a run may make the water travel to fast which causes excessive noise as well as premature fitting and pipe wear
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heat550

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #25 on: October 03, 2015, 03:37:20 PM »

Do you have temp gauges on the supply and return at the boiler, if so and under full load you are seeing more than a 20 degree differential between the supply and return then you will need to either up the pipe size or add another line set, adding a second circ on that short of a run may make the water travel to fast which causes excessive noise as well as premature fitting and pipe wear

Im thinking I will add the extra exchanger . and just see if the 011 will do it . I looked back in my pictures and I was getting 10 psi pump pressure on the incoming line right after the pump . at 150f
 I can always add a pump later if I really need it . Also I will have ball valves to adjust inplace to adjust flow if needed also . If I can average 5 GPM to7 GPM  I think it be enough . because with baseboards
I was only getting 33,000 btus  house never dropped below 58f even in 2014 .  Im having a feeling with bigger stove constant water temp lot of my issues with heat will fix them selfs . 200css I was having to much up and down
temp changing as fire only last 7 hours at -10f and I sleep 8-10 hours :) also looked my temp difference with just baseboards was only 9-12 degrees drop at 160f even when house was 60f ( all zones open )

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tinfoilhat2020

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #26 on: October 05, 2015, 10:52:29 AM »

HEat,

I just installed and fired up my new 400CSS as well.....One suggestion i would make is to change out the aquastat right away. The honeywell that comes on it has a maxx high set point of 180F.
I like to to run my stoves a bit hotter. Also, the differential setting on the stock aquastat was just off a bit, when set at 165 on and 180 off...it was really coming on at 158 and going off at 170.

After messing with it for a few hours after the inital firing i just switched it out for my old one. it only took 5 min and eliminated the problem immediately. Just figured i would pass this info on to ya!!!
Overall i love the stove tho, man it is a beauty to watch in action!!!!!!
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heat550

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #27 on: October 05, 2015, 11:23:16 AM »

HEat,

I just installed and fired up my new 400CSS as well.....One suggestion i would make is to change out the aquastat right away. The honeywell that comes on it has a maxx high set point of 180F.
I like to to run my stoves a bit hotter. Also, the differential setting on the stock aquastat was just off a bit, when set at 165 on and 180 off...it was really coming on at 158 and going off at 170.

After messing with it for a few hours after the inital firing i just switched it out for my old one. it only took 5 min and eliminated the problem immediately. Just figured i would pass this info on to ya!!!
Overall i love the stove tho, man it is a beauty to watch in action!!!!!!

Ok will keep that in mind as I have old stat also . does the double fans make big difference . I bet it heats up quick. Here I'm working on tractor to get it ready for moving stove. Old 200css is all drained and ready for disconnect. I just bought the bubble foil to put between stove and base . need to get some tubs of black sealant to seal inside firebox before putting sand in . how many 5 gallon pales of sand do you think it will take ? It's awesome you got it all fired up
Keep me posted in your findings . and I will let you know where I'm at. I'm hoping to fire mine up by Nov 1 .getting tractor going for the lift is slowing me down a bit .

Heat550
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tinfoilhat2020

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #28 on: October 06, 2015, 10:36:33 AM »

Heat,

the double fans are pretty insane....burns like a blacksmiths forge.....gets hott real quick. Only takes about 7-10 min to get up to temp. It took a lot of sand, i got 1 cubic yard of sand and it almost took the whole thing!
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heat550

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Re: zones plumbing want to add air exchangers
« Reply #29 on: October 07, 2015, 02:53:25 AM »

I know my 200css was bit crazy even with one fan and dry oak . Check out my white flames post . 2 fans now its goes to be pretty crazy .  I just got old plumbing all unhooked yes all 3 zones bit of a plumbing nightmare :) Getting excited for dis Assembly because Im taking it apart right there tank off base . shedding it outer skin .  It was interesting to look in a 19 year old tank it looks new yet  :o going to try see spot where its leaking from inside with auto cam on flexible rod  tomorrow . maybe next week I can get that all disassembled . I did notice inside tank that little grey coating just in bottom and top of tank .its from the anode rode i had in there in 1996 and I put a new one in 1998 .  what they were doing is expanding so much as pulled them out white stuff would peel off them to get them out . So ya that was more trouble then it was worth . you touch the white stuff and steels like new underneath. anyone has idea why and what for there I like to hear it :)  Also How do you like the new door latch on the 400dcss . seems bit different.. also on another point . I,m going to replace the new door hoses on my 400dcss with silicone hose ( semi heater hose ) its rated for 50psi working pressure and 350f . its some awesome stuff :) on my old 200css I had same hose on it for 3 years and soft just like its still new. its the blue hose pretty spend y though. I don't like change them door hoses :) Its messy . So Im going for max life on hoses . they do have 600f hose but that's over kill I think .

Heat550
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