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Messages - sabercat

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1
Central Boiler / Re: Storing Central Boiler
« on: October 15, 2020, 07:53:30 AM »
Is it going to be permanently disconnected or used again at a later time?

I would just drain it. Circulating water will require a heat source too ($$$ to keep it heated) and if the pump fails the damage will be much greater than corrosion from sitting empty. You won't know the pump failed like you would if it was heating your house.

If the lines are still going to be attached, I would get as much water out of them as you can and then fill lines with RV antifreeze.

Yes it will be permanently disconnected, will be up for sale as soon as I can figure how to get it out of the shed, Brothers backhoe took a dump, that's how we put it place. I've got the lines to the house and pole barn disconnected. Thanks I will drain it out.

2
Central Boiler / Storing Central Boiler
« on: October 13, 2020, 09:25:07 AM »
We have Nat gas hooked up, and I will not be using the CB, my question is, should I just drain it, or circulate the water, to prevent freezing? The only concern with draining it, would be rusting up in the inside.  Thanks

3
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Are you ready?
« on: August 24, 2017, 04:45:55 AM »
Geese are flocking, acorns dropping, leaves turning. I'm ready for snowmobiling, 4 face cord of wood, need more.

4
Central Boiler / Re: 40 drops
« on: December 29, 2016, 07:13:53 AM »
put half a bottle in, now at 16 drops.

5
Central Boiler / Re: Questions
« on: December 21, 2016, 04:42:41 AM »
Check temp of the return from the house going into it compared to return to boiler coming out of it.
If the return from the house is fairly cold then it is probably not working right. Would be best to do while blower in house is running.

I'll check tonight

The old pump that was on for 15-16 years was a Grundfos 15-42F, not sure of the specs on it.

6
Central Boiler / Re: Questions
« on: December 20, 2016, 07:27:25 PM »
Do you know if the thermostatic valve is working properly? There were a couple people here that had them fail this year.

not sure, but I do have hot water going thru it. I was never a big fan of it though.

7
Central Boiler / Re: Questions
« on: December 20, 2016, 07:26:11 PM »
forgot to add, I have always burned a lot of wood, about 30 face cord a year, but sometimes would start in sept, and go till may. pretty well insulated home, 6" walls etc, 1528 sq feet. Heat domestic water also, sidearm

8
Central Boiler / Re: Questions
« on: December 20, 2016, 07:11:36 PM »
sounds like a lack of water getting to the exchanger. flow, air lock, pump size, head loss all could be a factor
What size pipe are you running from the stove to the exchange? Also - what is your elevation difference from A to B. As RSI said you may need a bigger pump, if your pipe can handle the volume.

also - did this ever work in the past? if so what changed? (ie, added a loop/zone, etc...)

1" pipe size
pretty flat from a-b

it use to work in the past, but I did have a different pump on, not sure what size, Ill look tomorrow. The pump went out this fall, replaced it with my back up a 007, then put the nrf 22 on a week or so ago. I did add a loop on 2 years ago, 70 feet or so with a 6' lift. I've use wood for 16 years, this has been the worst as far as heat coming out of the vents. I also have the thermostatic valve mounted in line for the central boiler warranty, in which I have been thinking seriously about removing. Its working better, since the latest pump change and I did order a bigger pump yesterday.

9
Central Boiler / Questions
« on: December 19, 2016, 11:14:22 AM »
Recently I believe I had a air lock in my water system. Reason for this thinking was that my air/water exchanger was not all completly hot, when the fan would kick on, the only hot part of the exchanger was in the center (18x18) veins. So thats why I thought maybe airlocked. I first back flushed my system, but didnt really notice a difference. I had a brandnew B&G 22 pump, read that it had a little gpm then my 007, so replaced the 007, no differance. I thought well maybe the exchanger was plugged, so got a good deal on a new one, installed it this weekend, and I believe its alot better, but still the hot side in is very hot, and the exit side is almost as hot. Now the fan kicks on, and in a few minutes the exit side is very cool to the touch, center and enter side hot. You can hold you fingers on probably the top (return) 5 rows of tubes, actually cool to the touch.
When I intalled the exchanger, got all the air out etc. I think, could be wrong, even when the fan is pulling air thru the exchanger it should still be fairly warm to the touch, on the return top tubes.
So what are my options, bigger pump? Or maybe slow the return down somewhat, keep the hot water in the exchanger a few seconds longer.

My exchanger is mounted to the furnace, in and out lines come up thru the floor, goes thru the exchanger, then back down to the stove.
Stove is probably 130 feet from furnance, then it goes 50 feet to polebarn, which is just a loop for now. The entire loop (didnt relize it was this many Feet)from stove back to stove is roughly 388+ or - feet, that with the rising to the sidearm, furnace, and in the polebarn. Thanks for any help.

10
Central Boiler / Re: 40 drops
« on: December 16, 2016, 09:43:14 AM »
If your test is accurate you will need to add 1/2 container of CB corrosion inhibitor to put you back into range of 15-30 drops

OK, will do, then in a couple days I'll redo the test. Thanks

11
Central Boiler / Re: 40 drops
« on: December 16, 2016, 09:42:13 AM »
did you get the bottle from central boiler or some other place. If you are doing the test by their method you will need to treat the water to get it back up.  I had to buy a new bottle this year because mine was expired and was black .

Yes got it from the local CB dealer

12
Central Boiler / Re: no heat
« on: December 13, 2016, 05:11:49 AM »


I do have a new Bell & Gossett NRF-22, I just purchased. I may put that on as well soon. I was told that it may push alittle more then the one I have on now.
Any one know what size bolts for the flanges are used for the Bell & Gossett? Thanks

13
Central Boiler / Re: no heat
« on: December 13, 2016, 05:05:17 AM »
Does your circ have a check valve in it, if so it will need to be removed.

no check valve. 007 model I believe.
That was a question I forgot to ask, if water will go thru thr pump?

14
Central Boiler / Re: no heat
« on: December 12, 2016, 01:20:52 PM »
Possible air lock? Try purging air out of lines using domestic water pressure. Owners manual describes in detail this process.

I look at the CB picture in their book. What about this, I have a shut-off valve located on my return line on the stove, plus a faucet located there also. If I shut the valve off, turn pump off, hook domestic water to the faucet, push domestic water thru the return line, (basically backwards of how the pump is pushing it) thru the entire system, back to the wood stove. That should purge the entire system of air? Then what, turn faucet off, take water hose off, turn valve on,turn the pump on? Thanks

15
Central Boiler / Re: no heat
« on: December 12, 2016, 10:56:03 AM »
I installed 2 spirovent in my system,work great one right after the exit of hot water that leaves oil burner and one upstairs at high point of system at air handler hot coil.even just heating water creates air bubbles in system all the time.

I have a downdraft furnance in my house. The in (supply) hose comes up thru the floor, enters the water to air exchanger from the bottom, suppose to go thru the exchanger and fill all the tubes, then exit down thru the floor to wood stove. Could I mount the spirovent where the water comes out of the bottom of the exchanger to go back to the stove, its not at the top of the exchanger, bout 19"s lower. Would a bib, or faucet mounted there work as good, I would manually have to turn the faucet on to release air.  I can feel on top of the exchanger, and the outer most top loops are not hot, just the center ones. Thanks

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