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1

Central Boiler / Storing Central Boiler

« on: October 13, 2020, 09:25:07 AM »

We have Nat gas hooked up, and I will not be using the CB, my question is, should I just drain it, or circulate the water, to prevent freezing? The only concern with draining it, would be rusting up in the inside.  Thanks

2

Central Boiler / Questions

« on: December 19, 2016, 11:14:22 AM »

Recently I believe I had a air lock in my water system. Reason for this thinking was that my air/water exchanger was not all completly hot, when the fan would kick on, the only hot part of the exchanger was in the center (18x18) veins. So thats why I thought maybe airlocked. I first back flushed my system, but didnt really notice a difference. I had a brandnew B&G 22 pump, read that it had a little gpm then my 007, so replaced the 007, no differance. I thought well maybe the exchanger was plugged, so got a good deal on a new one, installed it this weekend, and I believe its alot better, but still the hot side in is very hot, and the exit side is almost as hot. Now the fan kicks on, and in a few minutes the exit side is very cool to the touch, center and enter side hot. You can hold you fingers on probably the top (return) 5 rows of tubes, actually cool to the touch.
When I intalled the exchanger, got all the air out etc. I think, could be wrong, even when the fan is pulling air thru the exchanger it should still be fairly warm to the touch, on the return top tubes.
So what are my options, bigger pump? Or maybe slow the return down somewhat, keep the hot water in the exchanger a few seconds longer.

My exchanger is mounted to the furnace, in and out lines come up thru the floor, goes thru the exchanger, then back down to the stove.
Stove is probably 130 feet from furnance, then it goes 50 feet to polebarn, which is just a loop for now. The entire loop (didnt relize it was this many Feet)from stove back to stove is roughly 388+ or - feet, that with the rising to the sidearm, furnace, and in the polebarn. Thanks for any help.

3

Central Boiler / 40 drops

« on: December 06, 2016, 06:42:21 PM »

If I'm at about 40 drops on the nitrate test what do I do. Do I drain some out and refill? I have soft water available. Thanks

4

Central Boiler / no heat

« on: December 04, 2016, 06:37:44 PM »

I finally fired up my 5036 for the winter today, at least I hoped to.
Got the stove up to temp, and check various fitting for possible leaks etc. Went down to the Thermostato valve and felt like the water was circulating thru it. Went upstairs to the furnace felt hot, so I turned the bypass that I have, to flow thru my water/air exchanger and thought everything was good. So I turn the thermostat up to enjoy the heat, and was blowing cool air. I went back to the crawl space and touched the hot line coming in, felt hot, went to where the lines go up to the side arm for the water heater, felt hot going in, but not so hot coming out. Had to go out of town, when I got back, I thought maybe the pump was not pumping good, so tore it apart, seems to run smooth, and quiet, actually took the cartridge out and turned it on. hooked the pump back up, loosened the return line up, turned the pump on, and it pushed water out, it was not coming from the stove, have a shutoff valve between the stove and where the hose hooks up. I'm sort of thinking, maybe my side arm is plugged up somewhat, has anyone ever encountered that, The hot water from the boiler goes to the hot water, then furnace, and I did have the exchanger on the furnace circulating hot water, but not now. Thanks

5

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / hot pump

« on: August 28, 2016, 07:45:19 PM »

I was checking out my wood stove today, and noticed the water temp said 68 (its off) but the pump felt really hot to the touch. So I had a replacement motor part, figuring that was the problem, after all its 15 years old, and ran just about every day, but after a bit the new pump motor was ho also. So I got my infrared temp gauge, and it said 135 degrees, and the pipe to and after said roughly 68 to 72. I have never noticed this before, so I was wondering any one had a infrared  gauge if they could take a temp for me, right on the big part of the motor, armature area. Thanks

6

Central Boiler / Another boil over

« on: January 21, 2016, 06:20:24 AM »

Woke up Monday to a cool house, down to 65. So went outside to check on the 5036, as soon as I opened the door, I heard a screeching sound, not good. So I pulled the dampner fuse and shut off the rocker swich. I never really looked to see if it was a stuck dampner, but assuming it was, after looking in the firebox to just ashes. My pump was running ,on no water so I figured it was shot, (that was the screeching sound). Anyway, I started adding water, brought the temp down from 211 quick. Turned the power back on, and the pump worked, has a slight tic to it, I do have a spare pump, was set to pull the guts out of the good one, and replace the bad pump guts. So after this being the 3rd time,(boilover) 2 was severe like this one was, one boilover not so bad, I bought another solenoid, will replace it this weekend, and also the pump guts. Since the first boilover, I have WD40 it probably at least ever two weeks, I even have the cover off to make it real easy to lube. I have scraped creasote off the dampner, hinge ares are cleaned also. Hopefully this will end the boilovers, and not split my fire box. Thanks for listening.

7

Central Boiler / 5036 Chimney

« on: October 18, 2015, 05:38:26 PM »

I have a 3 year old 5036. I have to replace the chimney tee, and when I got it tore apart I noticed the pipe was in rough shape also, the SS liner was warped, like the tee was. I got the tee at the local dealer, and I didn't get the price from them on the pipe. It is probably expensive, but anyone have a place to get the Hi-Heat pipe? Oh ya the dealer said  I must have had some hi temp in there. What size is this pipe considered 8" ? Thanks

8

Central Boiler / 5036 door rope

« on: December 12, 2013, 01:20:14 PM »

Going on my second year on the stove, theres some black liquid substance leaking out the bottom of the door, figure the rope seal is bad. Unless its coming out when the draft is open, reason why I say that is when the draft is closed, there is no flame going on in firebox. So if its the seal, this is winter, do I shut the stove down, get on propane, and replace the seal, is this a few hours job, or do I have to put seal/silicone iin and let set a time before firing back up?  Thanks

9

Central Boiler / 5036 Draft

« on: May 20, 2013, 07:17:57 AM »

I'm currently using the natural draft on the CB5036, was wondering if any of you have went to the fan forced setup, and if you did, do you like it? Thanks