Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers with NON EPA-Certified Models Only => Shaver Furnace => Topic started by: sergeant721 on January 13, 2012, 02:16:53 AM
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Dose anyone know why I have to use a heat exchanger I know the house is pressurized but if I turn the water off to the boiler in the house the system is then non pressurized all I would have to do is add a check valve on the return line to stop the water from draining out right this would eleminat alot of heat loss I'd like everyone input thanks
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Not sure about shaver but it was an option in my instalation manual to depressurise and direct plumb, I know central boiler shows this as well in their literature. I have my installed directly into my oil burner, hot feed tee in with the relief valve and tee out with the drain as these were the only ports available to me. I have check valves installed to prevent gost flow also note that all my zones are below my boiler, have not connected the one on the second floor yet. No problems so far excep I think I have a leak some where in the old system inside.
One thing I forgot earlier, bigest thing is to maintain some pressure to your circulator inside.
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Sergeant,
Did you ever contact Shaver OR your friend for an owner's manual?
Lugnut
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My cb is connected directly to my boiler the cb is higher then my boiler, the boiler is in the basement the only thing between the owb and the indoor boiler is a ball valve
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You can hook your wood boiler without a heat exchanger..Just make sure its not below grade.. You will drain your heating plumbing...Also the problem is since the wood boiler is a "open system"..All your heating plumbing in your house is now exposed to the atmosphere (oxygen).. Thats the reason why you should/ have to use a heat exchanger..Keep the household heating water separate from the wood boiler water.. Just make sure your boiler water chemical specs are what the manual says..If you take that route by not using a heat exchanger....
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What if I use back flow preventers so the senond floor water dose not drain out I would hook it up to the return back to the OWF
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Thanks for everyones info, dont know what I should do
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I have a 40 plate ex and iam on the fence on takeing it out! my dealer said i should !
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I have a 40 plate ex and iam on the fence on takeing it out! my dealer said i should !
did your dealer give a reason to take it out fireboss? this interests me because i feel it best to keep the systems seperate.
i think that if you use the heat exchanger you only have to worry about introducing air or crud into one exchanger. And why you would want to change the design of a heating system to run under no pressure when it was designe to run under pressure is beyond me. why mess with something that works. i can think of no reason to make the two systems one? i would like to hear the reasoning for doing it, i know we all have our own reasons for doing things and i would like to hear some thoughts on why joining the systems would be better? if we all hear the pros and cons from a bunch of people then we all have more info to go on in future decisions
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I have a 40 plate ex and iam on the fence on takeing it out! my dealer said i should !
did your dealer give a reason to take it out fireboss? this interests me because i feel it best to keep the systems seperate.
i think that if you use the heat exchanger you only have to worry about introducing air or crud into one exchanger. And why you would want to change the design of a heating system to run under no pressure when it was designe to run under pressure is beyond me. why mess with something that works. i can think of no reason to make the two systems one? i would like to hear the reasoning for doing it, i know we all have our own reasons for doing things and i would like to hear some thoughts on why joining the systems would be better? if we all hear the pros and cons from a bunch of people then we all have more info to go on in future decisions
My biggest reasons for going the direct conection root was cost and simplicity. I renovated a house that had been vacant for several years and the exsisting pressurised system would need additional work to be able to run pressurised beyond the large amount of work already put into it. Additionaly it saved me the cost of a large heat exchanger and the possibility of having to run 3 pumps apposed to the 2 I curently run. Plus since both systems are combined all the water is treated and constantly being filtered.
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My biggest reasons for going the direct conection root was cost and simplicity. I renovated a house that had been vacant for several years and the exsisting pressurised system would need additional work to be able to run pressurised beyond the large amount of work already put into it. Additionaly it saved me the cost of a large heat exchanger and the possibility of having to run 3 pumps apposed to the 2 I curently run. Plus since both systems are combined all the water is treated and constantly being filtered.
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sounds like cost drove your reasoning mostly..and cost is a big factor in many of our decisons. and it sounds like your old system may allready be corroded so the depressurizing and letting air into the system that may cause mor corrosion would not be a concern likley.
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Sergeant,
Did you ever contact Shaver OR your friend for an owner's manual?
Lugnut
I suppose since I've not gotten a response to this question several times...that you have not received an owner's manual either from the friend who sold you the furnace and you've not contacted Shaver. In my humble opinion, you NEED to have this owner's manual....it MIGHT help you in many ways, though not certain regarding the situation you're having now, BUT...you might want to c all Shaver and inquire there about this issue. Do NOT talk to Don Burge...Discuss this issue with HIS supervisor. Just an FYI.
Lugnut
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yes the ex works, but am i geting the most out of my wb? and like willieg said iam running 3 pumps and chaseing ghosts.
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Hi lugnut, I got the manuel a few weeks ago thanks Im going to keep it a two system