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1

Central Boiler / Re: CB 5036 vs 6048

« on: March 17, 2014, 01:30:57 PM »

As far as loops.  Most people bring in the main loop and then use a manifold to branch off to each device/heater.  You typically have a pump for each one that is controlled by the thermostat.  You do not want to daisy chain a bunch of devices off one loop as the return temperature will get too low.

Some people will run the loop through the air handler all the time and just use the thermostat to turn the fan on.  This works OK, but on the milder days, can overheat the house due to the radiant heat all the time.

You can put the DWH off the main loop (no extra pump), and then run a pump/loop for each heating element.  This will give you the best control over your system.  To save money you might be able to series the garage with the bonus room.

I would also recomment the 6048.  Both will probably do the job, but you will have to load the 6048 less often and that is really nice.

2

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Making a hot ash vacuum?

« on: February 06, 2014, 12:54:18 PM »

I was thinking.  Since my furnace doesn't have grates and adding them seems expensive and complicated; maybe if I could make a vacuum to suck the ash out that would be even better.  Plus I always get filthy shoveling out the ash.  Anyone ever tried this?  Care to share a design?

I have a shop vac.  I was thinking of something that would use my current metal trash cans for the ash.  Modify the lid for the tubes.  Perhaps powered by my shop vac or some other inexpensive blower (like a leaf blower).  Thinking the heat may be too much for the shop vac though.  Really don't want to melt it.  Also I assume the hoses would need to be heat resistant.

Place I used to work I made a large capacity shop vac. Took a old metal barrel with a clamp on lid, about a 15 or 20 gallon. Bought a vacuum motor from grainger, added some internal baffles and voila, large capacity shop vac. You'd need a really flexible metal hose of some kind.

Part I hate about cleaning ashes is they always end up in my eyes.

Any thoughts on the flex tubing?  I would assume I would want some sort of filter.. maybe a couple mesh screens and a filter.  Would have to be non-flammable though.  I don't care if it blows some fine ash out; I can put it to exhaust somewhere I don't care.

Not an expert on blowers.  Would this one be strong enough?  And anyone know if the 2" port is suction or exhaust?
http://www.grainger.com/product/AMETEK-LAMB-Vacuum-Mtr-Blwr-4M941?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP

3

Electronics / Re: Temperature monitoring.

« on: February 05, 2014, 08:13:31 AM »

Muffin, thanks for the input. Are you using the single prob model or dual prob?

Dual probe.  One on supply and one on return.  The return is fun to watch and does tell you something about your system efficiency.  With nothing calling for heat, it should be close to the supply.

4

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Making a hot ash vacuum?

« on: February 05, 2014, 08:09:04 AM »

They are available online or at your local plumbing supply house.

I was looking at those, but they seem to be running about $300 and they don't seem to have a very large capacity.  I like my ash to ferment 3-4 days before I dump it in the ditch to make sure it is all out.

5

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Making a hot ash vacuum?

« on: February 05, 2014, 07:21:45 AM »

I was thinking.  Since my furnace doesn't have grates and adding them seems expensive and complicated; maybe if I could make a vacuum to suck the ash out that would be even better.  Plus I always get filthy shoveling out the ash.  Anyone ever tried this?  Care to share a design?

I have a shop vac.  I was thinking of something that would use my current metal trash cans for the ash.  Modify the lid for the tubes.  Perhaps powered by my shop vac or some other inexpensive blower (like a leaf blower).  Thinking the heat may be too much for the shop vac though.  Really don't want to melt it.  Also I assume the hoses would need to be heat resistant.

6

Electronics / Re: Temperature monitoring.

« on: January 31, 2014, 11:36:37 AM »

I have the BBQ monitor and love it.  The alarms work great and warn of both the events you discussed.  And it is really cheap.

7

Plumbing / Re: help sizing pumps

« on: January 20, 2014, 07:43:46 AM »

I would go back to each exchanger you have and see what btu or GPM they need. 1" pex is recommended to flow 3.8-7.5gpm, PAP is 5.2-10.4gpm.  1gpm@180 supply & 160 return =10,000btuh.
Just an estimate but pool 200-300kbtu + DHW 40-100kbtu + 2 air handlers 80-120kbtu =320-520kbtuh if all zones are calling. That's a minimum of 32 GPM for 1 tap, this would max out 2" pex. If the boiler only has 2-sets of 1" taps that limits its max btu output to 160kbtuh under safe design.
What boiler model?

CB 6048.  Thought it was rated to 500K BTUs if I remember right.

8

Electronics / Re: Temp probes

« on: January 20, 2014, 07:36:19 AM »

Hey thanks Wood Nutt, I have a couple of unused 1/2" bungs on the back of my water jacket, I will probably get one of those screw in units.

And I will plan on putting a Maverick or 2 on my HXs, I was thinking of putting them out on the boiler but no reason for that.   

How's your battery life on the Maverick?

I have been using mine for a couple years now.  I would say 6-8 months is reasonable between battery changes.  I was originally going to buy an AC/DC adapter, but with that life, batteries seem easier.

9

Plumbing / Re: help sizing pumps

« on: December 31, 2013, 04:30:42 PM »

Since I am redoing all my piping, would I be better to make a loop of my main line and use closely spaced tees, or just buy two manifolds (one for supply and one for return)?  Just noticed some of the manifolds look kind of nice and have flow meters/check valves built into them.  I was also considering splitting the two house exchanges into their own loops so I can get rid of the 3-way valves.  They seems to start leaking to the closed side after about a year of operation anyways.

10

Plumbing / Re: help sizing pumps

« on: December 30, 2013, 11:54:47 AM »

The ports on he boiler are only 1" though.  So would running 1 1/2" really help?  There is a second set of ports.  Seems like the better option would be to run a second main loop.  Maybe dedicate that to the pool water heater since it needs the high flow rate?  What do you all think.

11

Plumbing / Re: help sizing pumps

« on: December 29, 2013, 09:36:58 AM »

Is the main loop 50' each way or round trip?
Are all the other loops feeding off it? Are they connected with close tees or some other way?

Does the main loop have a pump or do they others just pull out of it?

Going by what I think you have, I would put the 007 on the pool exchanger, the 009 on the 250' run to the two heat exchangers, the 26-99 on the main loop and get a 15-58 for the DHW loop.

That may change though depending on how you actually have it setup. I really doubt you will get anywhere close to 50 GPM unless you replace the main loop with much larger pipe. You shouldn't need that flow anyway though. Your boiler most likely can't put out enough BTU's to keep up with a heat load that would require that flow rate.

Main loop is 50' each way.  The other loops will be connected off it with close tees.  So what are you targeting for the water-air exchangers (GPM)?  I would assume you would run the 26-99 in high and the 15-58 on medium or something.

12

Plumbing / help sizing pumps

« on: December 29, 2013, 08:23:17 AM »

I would like to redo my setup a bit to optimize it.  I think my current configuration is poor.  Here are my loops:

The boiler is pretty much level with the house and about 50' away.  My line are all on the main floor so maybe +/-6' from the boiler port height differential.  Everything is run in 1" pex.

Main loop from the boiler to the house is about 50' and just loops back.
1st loop is only 10' and supplies the pool water heater.  I have been told to try for at least 15-20GPM on this exchanger for good performance.  Tubes in shell style.
2nd loop is about 25' and has a 30 plate exchanger for my DWH (with bypass valve) and then a 3-way to either loop back or supply my pool room heat exchanger (water-air)
3rd loop is 250' and supplies two 3-ways that either divert or supply my two house exchangers (both water-air)

I currently have a:
taco 009-BF5-J
taco 007-F5
grundfos UPS26-99 3 speed.

Would love to use these pumps if possible but realize I probably need to buy at least one more as I think none of these are adequate as the main supply line pump.  I was thinking the taco 9 would be good for the 2nd loop as I should not need a lot of flow.  Perhaps the taco 7 for the 3rd loop figuring I have a long run to drive and don't need that much flow.  And finally the grundfos on the 1st probably on the middle speed.  Thinking I need something in the 50GPM range for the main loop.  Any suggestions?

Thanks

13

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: New member, lots of questions

« on: December 12, 2013, 11:37:12 AM »

You can't read the manual.  Isn't that against the law or something!  Anyways, I too would recommend you get a cord or two delivered to get you started.  The wood typically doesn't need any special preparation.  Just in sizes that you are comfortable loading into the boiler.  Mine seem to do better with larger logs so I try to keep em big.  Make sure you check the water level and test it.  Check the pumps and make sure they are all working.  Then fire it up and enjoy the warmth.  It is good to check the temp at the boiler versus where it comes into the house to make sure your main lines are not loosing a lot of heat.

Couple cautions.  When opening the door, crack it a bit and give it ~30 sec to stabilize.  Especially if it just finished a burn cycle (at max temp).  In this condition when the door is opened it can flash out the door and you might loose some hair.  Also, hair lose condition, wear gloves and don't lean in to fast when tossing the logs in.  Gets real hot in there.  Easy to singe the eyebrows.

 

14

Central Boiler / Re: Ash height

« on: December 12, 2013, 11:15:09 AM »

Ok. I emptied a kubota loader bucket the other day and it seems much better. Probably back to 3 or 4 inches below the door. Things seem to be burning better now.

Thanks

Mine seems to almost instantly build up ash to couple inches above the door.  Then steady out.  I had built a grate for it and loved it, but the grate disintegrated.  Sure made cleaning easy and seemed to stall the ash buildup.

15

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: AAAARRRRGGGGGGGG

« on: December 09, 2013, 09:25:36 AM »

250.00 to load 4 cord ? where do u live ill be right over

Me to.. I'll do it for 225!