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Author Topic: 1st Post in the new area!!  (Read 16909 times)

fireboss

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #15 on: January 16, 2012, 03:34:06 PM »

i have a 10 plate heat ex and it works great!
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Sussex county new jersey                                                                   cb 6048 instald may 2010, heating 3000 sq and 15,000 gal pool,sure track dump trailer,35ton splitter,029,ms200,homlite xl

dirtryder

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #16 on: January 17, 2012, 08:38:54 AM »

I have been heating my 500gal hot tub for three years now with a tube and shell hx and it works perfectly. We just installed an inground 45,000 gal pool  and filled it last Labor Day. I have a tube and shell hx on that also. I just hooked it up temp last year to try it. It worked great BUT I can see it using LOTS of wood. The pool had no problem sucking my 6048 water temp down rather quickly. I installed the 150 degree bypass thingy that CB gave me with my boiler to the pool line. Played with the ball valves to regulate the flow.
When you install the hx for your pool do yourself a favor and INSTALL BALL VALVES on your inlet and outlet pool water side so you can regulate it.
This spring I will be fine tuning my install with temp controls.
Funny it was mentioned.......I asked my pool installer if we should/could insulate the hole before we sprayed the gunite and insulate the lines in the ground to prevent heat loss and he looked at me like I was from Mars  :)
I did have 2 seperate lines installed for future solar heat.
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fireboss

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #17 on: January 17, 2012, 02:44:07 PM »

I made a pvc by pass valve it cost 5$ to make  its more like a mixing valve so i can controll the temp. The "thingy" dirtryder is a thermastat. You need that to take the load off the wb
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Sussex county new jersey                                                                   cb 6048 instald may 2010, heating 3000 sq and 15,000 gal pool,sure track dump trailer,35ton splitter,029,ms200,homlite xl

Scott7m

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #18 on: January 18, 2012, 01:17:15 PM »

Marty, we had a guy lay black hose on his roof, several hundred feet, his water has gotten to 190 entering the pool.... 
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dirtryder

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2012, 06:25:51 AM »

Marty, we had a guy lay black hose on his roof, several hundred feet, his water has gotten to 190 entering the pool....

That's my next step and why I had 2 extra lines run to my pool.
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muffin

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #20 on: January 19, 2012, 01:34:47 PM »

Marty, we had a guy lay black hose on his roof, several hundred feet, his water has gotten to 190 entering the pool....

In the summer I do this too.  I have 300' of black hose I run on the roof.  I use the tee off the pump before the filter.  This way I use the extra head pressure to circulate this water without another pump needed.  I got a thermostate with a remote (wired) sensor.  Whenever it detects the roof temp is above 90F it opens an irrigation valve and allows the flow.  Very inexpensive.  The thermostate was like $30 I think and the valve was $20.  Most expensive part was all the hose.
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Bull

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #21 on: January 19, 2012, 08:44:01 PM »

muffin, what is the brand of thermostat and valve that you use?
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abarton

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #22 on: January 21, 2012, 10:51:26 PM »

im going to try and build a shell and tube hx for my pool. ill let yall know what not to do when im done with it
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muffin

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #23 on: January 24, 2012, 12:36:34 PM »

im going to try and build a shell and tube hx for my pool. ill let yall know what not to do when im done with it

lol, what type of water do you have?  Clorine or salt water?  Be carefull if it is salt, really limits the materials you can use.
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muffin

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #24 on: January 24, 2012, 12:45:05 PM »

muffin, what is the brand of thermostat and valve that you use?

I got it off ebay.  There are lots of them and they come in a couple different versions depending on the power input.

search for "Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat".  They are black with an orange bracket on the side.  Sometimes called a "Mini Digital Temperature Controller Thermostat Aquarium Incubator (-50~99°C)". They are typically under $20 with shipping.  So far mine has been rock solid, 2-3 months operation.  Very easy to use.

I just used a standard 3-way zone valve from pexsupply.  You can get them in 24VAC or 120VAC versions depending on what you have available.
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blakeusa

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Heating a pool w. Central Boiler
« Reply #25 on: January 26, 2012, 12:05:37 AM »

I heat a 20 x 38 inground gunite pool and spa 26k gallons off my central boiler.  Ran from April 1st to November 15th or so. in CT.

The diagrams and advise from central boiler does not work.    It took a long time and much trial and error to get the proper flow and to keep the boiler from running down from 180+ to 100 degrees in a matter of 4-6 hours.    I used several MP Flat Plate heat exchangers 20 and 40 plate (very expensive)... the outputs are too small for 2" pool plumbing and you end up with a mess of a plumbing job.   

Switched to a Triangle tube heat exchanger w/ 2" FPT connections for the pool and a few extras and control it all from my Pentair Easy Touch pool control system.   This opens and closes my circularity pumps from the boiler.  It;s not perfect and uses a massive amount of wood to heat the pool, but it works.    Located in CT so it gets cold at night.

Interested in what others are doing for larger inground pools.   We did my friends house with a 33k gallon pool too.

I may be make yet more adjustments next spring - adding a second heat exchanger to help pre-heat the water then run it through a second exchanger.    Plumbing this is a hassle.

Also installed 4 CPVC high temp pipes in the bottom of my pool just for pumping hot water into at night.    Works good but was expensive to plump as the pipe and fittings are expensive.  Only wish I put pex into the concrete before we shot the shell - like in floor heat.   Think this would have been a good solution.   I was already framed and rebar when I thought of it.

Did the pool, electrical and plumbing myself.

Am interested in what others are doing in this area.   Are you finding the thermostatic valve helps.     Dont really understand the function of this part.
« Last Edit: January 26, 2012, 12:11:55 AM by blakeusa »
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dirtryder

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #26 on: January 26, 2012, 06:58:26 AM »

I only heated my pool from labor day last year till begining of Nov.
This is the HX I have, the SS650:     http://www.heatexchangersonline.com/poolheaters2.htm

My pool is estimated @ 40k gal+ Once I fiddled with the flow going through the HX it worked really well. I had no controls on it because I knew in a short time I would be winterizing my pool. I just plugged my circ pump when I wanted heat, un plugged it when up to temp.  I could fill my 6048 with wood, go to work, and come home to a boiler that needed wood but not empty. If I had to guess, I would say 30 to 40% of my pool pump discharge went through my HX then mixed back with the rest. I had approximately 100  degree water dumping into my pool. The thermostatic valve seems to be a "must". If I did not have this, my boiler would drop like a rock on temp. It works just like a car thermostat in the cooling system. If the water coming from the boiler is less than 150 it will return to the boiler and not flow to the HX. As the water temp rises, it allows it to flow. I know once my boiler dropped to 150 it would go no lower but never really recovered a whole lot either. But, it must have been heating because my water out of the HX was always hotter than water going in and my pool was always warm when I got home. Had it up to 85 degrees in Sept just to see how it would work.
This year, I am going to control the boiler water into the HX with an aquastat and 3way valve. I am also going to put a 24 hour clock timer on my control wire to the transformer for my valve so I can let the boiler "catch up" .  I'm thinking maybe 3 hours on, 30 to 60 minutes off. When I get all hooked up this spring, I'll take some pics of the set up. 
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muffin

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Re: Heating a pool w. Central Boiler
« Reply #27 on: January 26, 2012, 11:57:50 AM »

I heat a 20 x 38 inground gunite pool and spa 26k gallons off my central boiler.  Ran from April 1st to November 15th or so. in CT.

The diagrams and advise from central boiler does not work.    It took a long time and much trial and error to get the proper flow and to keep the boiler from running down from 180+ to 100 degrees in a matter of 4-6 hours.    I used several MP Flat Plate heat exchangers 20 and 40 plate (very expensive)... the outputs are too small for 2" pool plumbing and you end up with a mess of a plumbing job.   

Switched to a Triangle tube heat exchanger w/ 2" FPT connections for the pool and a few extras and control it all from my Pentair Easy Touch pool control system.   This opens and closes my circularity pumps from the boiler.  It;s not perfect and uses a massive amount of wood to heat the pool, but it works.    Located in CT so it gets cold at night.

Interested in what others are doing for larger inground pools.   We did my friends house with a 33k gallon pool too.

I may be make yet more adjustments next spring - adding a second heat exchanger to help pre-heat the water then run it through a second exchanger.    Plumbing this is a hassle.

Also installed 4 CPVC high temp pipes in the bottom of my pool just for pumping hot water into at night.    Works good but was expensive to plump as the pipe and fittings are expensive.  Only wish I put pex into the concrete before we shot the shell - like in floor heat.   Think this would have been a good solution.   I was already framed and rebar when I thought of it.

Did the pool, electrical and plumbing myself.

Am interested in what others are doing in this area.   Are you finding the thermostatic valve helps.     Dont really understand the function of this part.

I have a shell in tube heat exchanger.  The system works very well, but it does put a huge load on the boiler as it should.  You are loosing an enourmouse amount of heat to the ground.  If I do this again, I am going to find a way to insulate the pool from the ground.  The thermostatic valve is there to protect the boiler and should be installed wether you have a pool or not.  It hurts your heating, but saves your boiler.  It will shunt the water back to the boiler if it detects the outgoing water is below 150*F.  Supposedly this is the temp that the weater will be too cold and damage the internals.
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muffin

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #28 on: January 26, 2012, 12:00:38 PM »

I only heated my pool from labor day last year till begining of Nov.
This is the HX I have, the SS650:     http://www.heatexchangersonline.com/poolheaters2.htm

My pool is estimated @ 40k gal+ Once I fiddled with the flow going through the HX it worked really well. I had no controls on it because I knew in a short time I would be winterizing my pool. I just plugged my circ pump when I wanted heat, un plugged it when up to temp.  I could fill my 6048 with wood, go to work, and come home to a boiler that needed wood but not empty. If I had to guess, I would say 30 to 40% of my pool pump discharge went through my HX then mixed back with the rest. I had approximately 100  degree water dumping into my pool. The thermostatic valve seems to be a "must". If I did not have this, my boiler would drop like a rock on temp. It works just like a car thermostat in the cooling system. If the water coming from the boiler is less than 150 it will return to the boiler and not flow to the HX. As the water temp rises, it allows it to flow. I know once my boiler dropped to 150 it would go no lower but never really recovered a whole lot either. But, it must have been heating because my water out of the HX was always hotter than water going in and my pool was always warm when I got home. Had it up to 85 degrees in Sept just to see how it would work.
This year, I am going to control the boiler water into the HX with an aquastat and 3way valve. I am also going to put a 24 hour clock timer on my control wire to the transformer for my valve so I can let the boiler "catch up" .  I'm thinking maybe 3 hours on, 30 to 60 minutes off. When I get all hooked up this spring, I'll take some pics of the set up.

I installed the blower on my 6048.  So far just from visuals, it seems to be holding temp much better.  I think with the pool, the load is just too much for draft alone.
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Scott7m

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Re: 1st Post in the new area!!
« Reply #29 on: January 28, 2012, 10:28:45 AM »

When it comes to heating an outdoor pool....  You all could put a lot more heat in your pools using the power of the sun and black hose, it may take a bit of hose but it's truly free heat
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