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16

Portage & Main / Re: BL 28-40 blower fan making some noise.

« on: February 23, 2018, 01:36:41 AM »

Dayton 4C446 is the spare I have.

Hello Sir on a side note I noticed your also from Ontario.Might I ask how you like the P&M unit and approx wood use per season. I am from the Dundalk area(west of Barrie)

17

Equipment / Re: Wood Splitter Recommendation?

« on: February 22, 2018, 11:35:24 AM »

Crow
 I do not have one yet as am looking on getting one this summer if all goes well I heat at the moment with just a Drolet wood stove the entire old farm house.I want the unit to heat 2 houses and perhaps a shed where I park the snow blower tractor,am even thinking of putting the unit into the shed so I do not have to deal with blowing winds while filling it up. I am located in Dundalk Ontario (west of Barrie)

18

Equipment / Re: Wood Splitter Recommendation?

« on: February 22, 2018, 03:38:14 AM »

Yup. A generator or a lot of extension cords. Lol.
It was an option only if you're concerned about fluid viscosity. I would just let it warm up, working it half throttle for a few minutes before getting into full throttle mode. Gets both of you warmed up ready for the work out.

Crow. On a different matter might I ask how you like the P&M unit 28-40?

19

Fire Wood / Re: Got wood

« on: February 17, 2018, 04:18:05 PM »

Went out to the woods this morning for the first time in 4 years following a back injury. Met my dad out there to cut a couple small loads of deadfall. Of course my damn saw wouldn't start even though I just used it yesterday at home, tore it apart and found there was no spark. Oh well, whatever. Took dad's saw and started cutting, after not much more than 1/2 cord I couldn't stand up straight anymore. We each filled a 5x8 trailer loosely and went home. Took a 45 minute HOT shower to loosen up the back and now I'm laying on a pile of ice packs. Guess I'll go back to buying it again next year for $110 a cord delivered. 40 acres of oak just 2 miles up the road for the taking and I'm too crippled to be able to cut it, damn shame

It is a shame at times when one has wood so close can almost see the pile  laying there already. I also know what you mean about working part of a day then in a tub or shower for a long while so you can move again.I always say getting old can be no fun at times and it sure seems after 50 it goes down hill Fast. I saw slab wood the other day for $30 a bundle and I will go next sale day again and if they have it again pickup 10 or so bundles will for sure save working in the bush especially when is wet and nasty.

20

Fire Wood / Re: Got wood

« on: February 15, 2018, 02:47:46 PM »

 Hello neighbor(kinda of )  I have to ask about the load of wood your getting and if you think he would deliver to my area and cost per load please?

21

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Does anyone put a roof over their OWB?

« on: February 05, 2018, 09:07:37 AM »

Here's my shed I built to house the boiler.  16' x 24'  salt box style shed.

Open on 1 side, and closed the other 3.  I used 5/4 deck boards around the wood to create a corn crib effect, allowing air to circulate all the way around.  The 3rd bay is general outdoor storage.

Nice shed but around here with one open side it be blown full of snow and you would have to shovel it first  not to mention your wood be covered with snow

22

HeatMaster / Re: slab wood does the trick

« on: February 01, 2018, 06:10:18 PM »

I'm going to pick me up a bundle tomorrow and give it a shot. Buddy hauls logs to the Amish and brings home semi loads of slabs then sells them. Asked him this morning and he'll sell me them for $40 a bundle, about 3/4 cord of oak mostly debarked. Getting lazy in my old age, maybe I'll like it

We burned it many years and if you get it with no bark even better. Around here it sell for 490 delivered a load of 11-12 face cord so 40 is cheap but ours comes cut up already

23

General Discussion / Re: Heat distribution

« on: January 24, 2018, 06:47:06 AM »

Indoor installs obviously require some common sense fire safety practices, not everyone seems to get it, I  cringe at some of the wood sheds I see with fuel cans, dry dust and debris etc.
The G series is UL rated for indoor, GS and C are not in case your insurance cares.

Thank you and yes I understand that area needs to be as clean as it can be within reason. I have burned wood in a stove indoors for 40 some years and even managed 1 chimney fire(never again).I heard about the G series being indoor approved but I am not sure I want a gas type unit since from all my reading they want dry wood and well I burn pallets at times and other more moist stuff..

24

General Discussion / Re: Heat distribution

« on: January 23, 2018, 04:46:50 PM »

Thank you and yes that is what I was asking about and I am glad you like them and the cost is not bad. Do you have that insulated Pex pipe run real close to the unit before removing the foam insulation or does that end fairly soon after it enters the house

My underground pipe ends as it enters the house. I do a fair amount of installs for customers and the same applies with all of those as well, maybe a few feet remains if it comes through the floor. My run to the furnace is about 40 feet each way uninsulated after it comes into the house and again, most installs are uninsulated in that space also. As was pointed out, that "lost" heat from the exposed piping isn't really lost if you can utilize it to heat the building. One can pick up those 3-6 foot pieces of foam insulation from Menards or wherever to wrap the exposed lines if it is a problem and they do pretty well. There is a looser, plastic type foam and a dense rubber foam that both work. The rubber type is more expensive but insulates better. My lines run across the South side of the house and that, coupled with the solar gain from the sun on the South side, can make the South half of the house rather warm on warm days but not enough to bother me to insulate them. Personal preference, really. My boiler has only about 10 feet each way to my shop wall which I ran in regular 1" PEX and covered with the aforementioned rubber wrap and the heat loss is unnoticeable off the pipe. Snow will sit on it all day if I let it

Thank you for that information.Since you do installs where them temps are about the same as here I have heard it best to keep the Pex tubing shallow if there is alot of ground water issues. Ever hear that? I also read to put 2"blue board(insulation) on top if shallow?

What kind of underground will you be using? Shallow seems to be best unless you have very heavy traffic over the line, maybe under a driveway or something. The corrugated drain tile stuff with the wrapped insulation does tend to find water at some point or another unfortunately, so we commonly refer to that as "do over pipe" as it usually needs replacing after a short life span due to water infiltration. The Z Supply double wall stuff seems to be a pretty good product (never used it myself) but is in the same price range as 1" Rehau or Thermopex foamed pipe. I always bury that 18-24" down unless the ends need to come up through a slab, they have a rather long bend radius so they usually get to 4-5 feet at the end. Mine under my driveway is 18" deep only and I drive loaded semi trucks over it without any disfigurement. Dug it up once to lay geotextile fabric down to harden up my driveway a bit in spring and was bouncing over it with the Bobcat all day, again no issues. That is 32mm Logstor brand which is the same size as 1-1/4" Rehau with a full 1" inside diameter vs 7/8" ID for the 1" PEX lines. Depends on your heat load, but if you can get away with 1" I would forget all about the wrap style and invest in a quality foamed underground like Thermopex or Rehau so you only need to do it once. Some do recommend keeping it deep, below the frost line, but I myself haven't found any benefit to it. There will almost always be more water down there than at the surface, and a pipe submerged in 55 degree water is still going to lose more heat than a pipe encased in 0 degree dry dirt the way I see it.

Again thanks and I do plan on using the Logstor Brand. On a side note you have a Heat master unit correct? I want to install my unit into my drive shed so I can stay out of the snow blowing and cold temps while filling the unit ,do you see any down side to that?

25

General Discussion / Re: Heat distribution

« on: January 23, 2018, 03:08:29 PM »

Thank you and yes that is what I was asking about and I am glad you like them and the cost is not bad. Do you have that insulated Pex pipe run real close to the unit before removing the foam insulation or does that end fairly soon after it enters the house

My underground pipe ends as it enters the house. I do a fair amount of installs for customers and the same applies with all of those as well, maybe a few feet remains if it comes through the floor. My run to the furnace is about 40 feet each way uninsulated after it comes into the house and again, most installs are uninsulated in that space also. As was pointed out, that "lost" heat from the exposed piping isn't really lost if you can utilize it to heat the building. One can pick up those 3-6 foot pieces of foam insulation from Menards or wherever to wrap the exposed lines if it is a problem and they do pretty well. There is a looser, plastic type foam and a dense rubber foam that both work. The rubber type is more expensive but insulates better. My lines run across the South side of the house and that, coupled with the solar gain from the sun on the South side, can make the South half of the house rather warm on warm days but not enough to bother me to insulate them. Personal preference, really. My boiler has only about 10 feet each way to my shop wall which I ran in regular 1" PEX and covered with the aforementioned rubber wrap and the heat loss is unnoticeable off the pipe. Snow will sit on it all day if I let it

Thank you for that information.Since you do installs where them temps are about the same as here I have heard it best to keep the Pex tubing shallow if there is alot of ground water issues. Ever hear that? I also read to put 2"blue board(insulation) on top if shallow?

26

General Discussion / Re: Heat distribution

« on: January 22, 2018, 06:06:31 PM »

Thank you and yes that is what I was asking about and I am glad you like them and the cost is not bad. Do you have that insulated Pex pipe run real close to the unit before removing the foam insulation or does that end fairly soon after it enters the house

27

General Discussion / Heat distribution

« on: January 22, 2018, 01:00:42 PM »

Hello group question about how the heat is spread throughout the house. Who has it hooked up to there forced air furnace and how does that workout,also approx cost for that piece for furnace and also for water heater.
 

28

HeatMaster / Re: Multi fuel

« on: January 22, 2018, 07:54:35 AM »

Thank you guys for that Info and I will not ask what that stuff might be which you do not want to mention.lol Is the door big enough to fit a square bale of hay/straw through it?Also what kinda burn times do you get with wood when is (Cold) dead of winter?

29

HeatMaster / Multi fuel

« on: January 21, 2018, 10:06:43 PM »

Hello group and does anyone have one of the Multi fuel boilers,if yes what do you burn other than wood in them?

30

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Oil or propane?

« on: January 17, 2018, 06:25:17 AM »

I put in a IBC high efficiency propane two weeks ago, for a new house and future wood furnace install. He has infloor radiant in concrete. Says the thing hardly runs and is so quite. I told him it will never run with the wood furnace hooked on to the heat exchanger. That model n size DC 20-125 dual condensing combi boiler.

I have to ask since I am new to this site and the letters used but what is a (IBC)?

http://ibcboiler.com/

Welcome Farmer Rob.   

Thank you for the link about the IBC boiler and also I hope to learn much from this group so I do not make mistake when is time to buy my unit