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31
Plumbing / Broken PexWorx?
« on: October 03, 2015, 07:47:45 PM »
I came across this topic: Broken Pex, in the Plumbing category. According to this topic, the PEXworx may have quality issues. I was planning to order some of this brand name PEXworx pex-al-pex tubing to update my hydronic plumbing in the basement, but now I will have to do some research on this brand.
Has anyone else used this brand? My original plumbing installation was pex-al-pex made by Kitek, this was over 15 years ago, still in perfect working condition as well as all the pap compression fittings.. I'm pretty set staying with pex-al-pex & the recommended fittings for them. for my own personal reasons.
Has anyone else used this brand? My original plumbing installation was pex-al-pex made by Kitek, this was over 15 years ago, still in perfect working condition as well as all the pap compression fittings.. I'm pretty set staying with pex-al-pex & the recommended fittings for them. for my own personal reasons.
32
Portage & Main / Chimney brush for cleaning secondary heat exchanger
« on: October 01, 2015, 04:11:15 PM »
Is there anything wrong with using 6x10 inch chimney brush to clean out the 6x10 secondary heat exchanger. Even I don,t have my boiler running yet, I thought I,d take my 6 inch round chimney brush and run it through for the heck of it. Seems the bristles make good contact with the metal, but a rectangular would be better.
33
Fire Wood / Re: Are you Ready???
« on: September 30, 2015, 06:23:54 PM »
Pretty much ready here, wood supply is good. doing some rewiring on my BL right now. I brought my water temperature display to the front so I don't have to go around to the back of the boiler. Wiring draft blower so I can turn off the blower on the front with a light switch. Going to use Slimjim's wiring diagram so the draft blower will shut off if the water temp gets too low or when the wood is almost gone.
Looks like you're all set, Maxnchej on your heating fuel. Enjoy your burn this winter.
We've finally cooled off this week in west central Wisconsin, in the low normal 60'sF, had my first frost last night. I'm still holding off on the wood burning for a few more weeks unless Mother nature decides differently for me.
Looks like you're all set, Maxnchej on your heating fuel. Enjoy your burn this winter.
We've finally cooled off this week in west central Wisconsin, in the low normal 60'sF, had my first frost last night. I'm still holding off on the wood burning for a few more weeks unless Mother nature decides differently for me.
34
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Needing a fire at night
« on: September 30, 2015, 02:32:57 PM »
Never shut your water circulator off while there is any amount of wood left, including hot coals. Water temperature will rise quickly even with some glowing embers left. What I do is turn down the water temp way down, down to 150 degrees so the draft blower won,t kick in.
35
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Needing a fire at night
« on: September 29, 2015, 07:24:22 PM »
When I know it's going to get above 60 and there is some coals left from the previous night, I'll put in a very small amount of dry wood for the day, enough to carry the burn, until the evening fill.
36
Portage & Main / Re: Ash Plugged
« on: September 29, 2015, 07:03:56 PM »
I ran my bl 2840 for the first time this past winter, never had had problems plugging up the brick gaps, as long as I kept raking the ashes across the bricks with my straight edge garden hoe every day. This way, if the gaps begin plugging up, the draft blower will clear out the gaps and also makes for more of an effecient entry burn.
37
Site Suggestions / Re: Text Over-Run
« on: September 28, 2015, 03:54:45 PM »
Thanks, it,s looking good now, no more text over run.
38
Site Suggestions / Text Over-Run
« on: September 21, 2015, 07:16:22 PM »
Can something be done about this text over lapping other text?
39
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Are you ready
« on: September 18, 2015, 02:31:44 PM »
Ready, but I won't fire up until Nov. 1. I'd like to burn up some of this cheap LP this fall, since I had to pay a premium price for oak logs last fall, for this years burning.
40
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Website
« on: September 18, 2015, 07:11:49 AM »
Very annoying.
41
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: I got scared
« on: April 09, 2015, 05:37:36 PM »
Same here, I open the ash door and the stove starts vibrating & tinkering. I just got used to it, during the winter. Really opens up the spaces between the fire bricks.
42
Portage & Main / Re: Ash depth on BL
« on: March 24, 2015, 06:57:22 PM »Hello I have wanted to thank all of you who have been helping answer and share what you think works best in your system.. I will try to explain how important it is to keep the preheated under fire air inlets open ,I often compare the burner combustion system to a machine that needs to inhale and exhale at the right location and proportion. If the refractory grates are restricted more air is going to be forced to go above the fire. ..you will lose out on the benefits of air coming up under the fire think of the camp fire we know that if the air isn't coming from under the fire in just doesn't burn well at all. You will still get heat with air above the fire but it will likely burn more wood. You will likely blow more heat towards the heat exchanger on its way to the stack out let .Primary preheated air from under and secondary air to help burn the gases.I have experienced this gas burning when I have opened the fire door it seems to escape out the top few inches of the door, very hot and can be dangerous be careful. ..the gases are burning almost invisible because of the refractory and air another reason to keep the ashes to a minimum.
You are on the right track, hotterburn4u.
43
Portage & Main / Re: Grounding?
« on: March 18, 2015, 06:23:32 PM »
I'm sorry, but what is the reason for grounding the furnace? My electrical lead in cable has a ground wire that is grounded to the furnace.
44
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Cardboard
« on: March 16, 2015, 07:14:00 AM »
Hi Crow, I've been wondering all winter on how to scrape the remaining glazed on creosote come shut down or maybe the glaze may not be too much of a concern if it's a thin coat.
Been a might proud with my first year with the BL.
Been a might proud with my first year with the BL.
45
Portage & Main / Re: Ash depth on BL
« on: March 15, 2015, 07:11:30 PM »
Been catching up on reading these posts. I thought I may add on my past winter experience with my first year with the BL 2840.
I noticed that my stove burns considerably cleaner with less smoke out the stack when keeping my ashes to a minimum (less than an inch), loading oak only as much needed for the next fill up, maintain around 2 - 3 inches of coals. I use a garden hoe to move the ashes around so they drop through the brick grates. Something else I noticed, if I keep an area near the center, about 12 inches, clean of any ash & coals, the wood burns even better, I think allowing more free air flow in the center will vastly improve draft air flow into the stacked wood.
And of course, keeping the secondary heat exchanger clean as well as the chimney T fitting.
I noticed that my stove burns considerably cleaner with less smoke out the stack when keeping my ashes to a minimum (less than an inch), loading oak only as much needed for the next fill up, maintain around 2 - 3 inches of coals. I use a garden hoe to move the ashes around so they drop through the brick grates. Something else I noticed, if I keep an area near the center, about 12 inches, clean of any ash & coals, the wood burns even better, I think allowing more free air flow in the center will vastly improve draft air flow into the stacked wood.
And of course, keeping the secondary heat exchanger clean as well as the chimney T fitting.