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1

General Discussion / Re: Rainwater and clorox

« on: October 14, 2013, 10:28:41 AM »

I use rainwater because my only other source of water is my well. The well water is very high in lime content, so much that it actually collected in my W/W  exchanger and in my W/A exchanger that I had to pull them and soak them in white vinegar for a week or so to get them cleaned out last season. I was losing at least 60 percent or more of flow through the system.

2

General Discussion / Rainwater and clorox

« on: October 14, 2013, 10:02:31 AM »

I have a catch container to collect rainwater  water to fill my outdoor wood furnace. Occasionally I add about a table spoon of bleach to the water to retard algae growth. Would appreciate others opinions as to whether or not this will damage the boiler. Thanks, Sawdust

3

WoodMaster / Re: Not burning good

« on: December 05, 2012, 07:21:34 AM »

Sir, sounds as though you have quite a bit of creosote build up. Also what are your high and low temperature settings?  Are you burning wood that has most of the moisture dried out of it? I occasionally use creosote removing products in my 4400 to help. The type that is dry granules in a tube, just follow directions. Although your draft fan may be running, it could be partially blocked off- by soot and creosote, take the cover offhand inspect the bottom of the blower for this. While you have the cover off look at the draft control flapper- ( rubber flap ) that opens and closes. Turn your draft fan on and off while you have he cover off, to make sure the solenoid - the mechanisim that opens and closes the rubber flapper is working properly. Good luck.

4

WoodMaster / Heads up - potential problem

« on: November 05, 2012, 05:45:32 PM »

My 4400 overheated the other day, l just happend to catch it before it boiled too low . The solenoid attaches to the rubber draft control cover using a size 8 or 10 screw that passes through one end / eye of a spring . The other end of the spring is attached to a metal connector that is fixed to the rubber flapper. The screw that passes through the clevis and upper spring eye is threaded from the head to the end. The spring eye that this screw passes through can get hung on the threads in a way that will not allow the rubber draft flapper to seal. This allows enough air to let the stove overheat. I replaced mine with a cotter pin of he proper length and diameter. If you could find a screw/bolt that had a shoulder long enough to go through the clevis on the solenoid and threaded so that the nut would thread up to the clevis- would be better. I just used what I had . Newer models may have a different set up . Just four screws to take the cover off the draft fan to check it. I hope everyone go through the storm safely and, without damage.

5

WoodMaster / Re: High Temp silicone

« on: October 17, 2012, 05:19:33 AM »

Thanks for the replys. I ended up going to Tractor suppy. There were several temp. Rated silicon products. I purchased one for about 8:00$. , rated 600 deg.  They had some for 650 deg. @ 2400:$. I removed the old rope, used a disc hinder to clean out the channel, ran a 3/16 bead all around and the placed the fiberglass rope in without stretching it, I then caulked to completely cover , then floated it off level, let it set 24 hrs. Thought I was not going to be able to get the door closed , used a cheater pipe to force it Let  it set one day then built a fire. The door and seal has since seated so that I can closed it and, it is sealed really well. Next time I would stretch the rope just a little.

6

WoodMaster / High Temp silicone

« on: October 08, 2012, 08:08:31 AM »

I have read several post that mention using silicone to when installing a new door gasket. What temperature rating is considered  " high temp " , for this ? What are some sources for this product? Thanks for any info.

7

WoodMaster / Re: Water percolating

« on: October 02, 2012, 02:01:18 PM »

Thanks to all who replied, turns out every suggestion or diagnosis was either spot on or close. I did visit the suggested link To inspectapedia hot water- expansion? I used the coefficients as presented in the formulas.One of them calculated out to 2.64 gal. Expulsion if my memory is working. The range of temps , altitude, station pressure and, I think the water being circulated were all difficult  to deal with, for me anyway. The link provided by Scott7m has a lot of info.

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WoodMaster / Re: Water percolating

« on: September 29, 2012, 07:13:10 PM »

So.... I waited until after miday and the water temp had dropped to 90 deg.  12 - 13 degrees higher than when I started at around 77deg.  I refilled the boiler, it took 3 gal. To get back to same water level I had at the beginning.

9

WoodMaster / Re: Water percolating

« on: September 28, 2012, 05:36:53 PM »

Scott,  I want to satisfy my curiosity as to the volume of water that is expelled.
Yoder,  After I have determined the loss of water volume I will refill as per Manf instructions. It will percolate out again. When it reaches 170 deg I will add water to fill, I believe it will just heat up to percolate temp and come right back out. At that time , will the water level be acceptable?

10

WoodMaster / Re: Water percolating

« on: September 28, 2012, 04:26:12 PM »

Scott,   I am waiting on the water to cool back down and then I will check the difference in water level, also I will refill to original water level and keep record of how much water was lost. Last winter I observed the percolating one day and I immediately added water, however the same thing happened. The water level does not get low enough to show up on the monitor light. I did have the draft control ( fan cover ) break. I replaced it quickly. I just don't understand why the volume of water is percolated out. When the unit cools off , I believe the water level will be below the dipstick that is used to monitor the water level. I know the water temp is not getting too high, I stole out my wife candy therm and checked the water temp as compared with the led readout on the burner, they were reading within 10 - 15 degrees of each other. That should be close, as I was checking at a different level than where the thermistor is located. Thanks for the reply.

11

WoodMaster / Water percolating

« on: September 28, 2012, 01:22:02 PM »

4400 HD  OK So I filled the water resivor to within 2 inches of the top of the fill pipe. While filling I made sure to remove any air in the system. Fired the unit up and at about 130 deg. FH the water started to percolate up out of the fill pipe. I kept watch while the heat built up to 168 deg and the percolating stopped even though the blower did not cut off until unit read 170 deg. Of course the temp continued to climb to 174 and then stopped climbing. I suppose the water should expand some as the temp climbed  from 70  deg. To 170 deg. When the water cools back down to 70 or so deg. I will check the difference in the water levels. Should the water level be high enough to stand up into the fill pipe? Or would it be lower than that?
Also, I thought it might be the pump was not moving enough GPM . However when I installed the unit , I put a Tee with a cutoff valve in the return line at a point about 1 ft. From the return line connection elbow at the furnace. I can open the cutoff at the Tee and, close the return cutoff located just above it where the water enters the furnace, that way I could check the rate of flow. I collected 6 gallon in about 22 seconds or less. Would appreciate any info from other owners experiences , so I can compare, Thanks

12

WoodMaster / Hi-TEMP CAULK

« on: January 03, 2012, 03:42:14 AM »

To answer my own post. No caulking needed. The 1inch fiberglass rope (gasket material) will conform to the channel in the door after door is closed . The heat will form it to the door channel, as the channel in the door is deep enough to act as a mould. Maybe this info will be of help to someone else. Be shire to clean out all of the old gasket material and wire brush the channel before installing the new gasket.

13

WoodMaster / HI-TEMP CAULKING

« on: December 02, 2011, 06:47:34 AM »

Hello, I would appreciate any info on brand and supply of caulking to use around the flue on my 4400. Thanks

14

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: WOOD USAGE

« on: March 15, 2011, 08:23:18 PM »

Sir,  I am heating about the same Sq footage that you are. I estimate that I have used 4 cords or maybe a little less. Fired up my furnace Nov. 4th. We have had the worst winter in several decades here both in duration of low-cold temps-10 to 20 deg. , and lots of snow. I have used a minimum of dry wood, just enough to keep the green wood burning, mostly white,red,chestnut oak with some hickory and locust mixed in. I burn extremely large chunks 24-30 inch length 12-18 dia. The furnace is a woodmaster 4400, has a large burn chamber. My heating cost have dropped expotentially. If I don,t  count my labor. I live on a small farm and have my own woodlot. If my health holds, so that I can cut wood and operate the unit, it should pay for itself in three winters use.

15

General Discussion / Re: Ha! Ha!

« on: February 01, 2011, 05:58:39 PM »

 Amen,  Brother you are right on.     Jeez who needs 6 more weeks of this ? Not I said the Father Bear.