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1
Central Boiler / Re: New To The Game!
« on: February 14, 2012, 09:48:41 AM »I had not watched the video, if it is approaching 100% efficiency why does it not have a plastic chimney? My gas boiler does.
And to get that high it must condense?
I am not sure if your question is serious. If it is, then:
1) They are 80-90 percent efficient not 100 percent.
2) One has to open the bypass door when adding wood, which makes them operate like a standard fireplace during that time and flames sometimes can be seen exiting the chimney.
3) The season start-up process requires kindling to be burnt with the bypass door open to create a coal bed. Again, flames coming up through the chimney.
4) Even though they are efficient - during high burn mode the temperature going through the heat exchanger may be 1400 degrees Fahrenheit and not all of that energy, in the form of hot gasses, is scrubbed off by the heat exchanger.
2
Central Boiler / Re: New To The Game!
« on: February 12, 2012, 10:13:08 PM »
Sperlefarms,
Installing a high quality water line from the OWB to the house is very important. Create a good drainage channel for the water line and add extra insulation. It will pay off every year you use your furnace.
Dean
Installing a high quality water line from the OWB to the house is very important. Create a good drainage channel for the water line and add extra insulation. It will pay off every year you use your furnace.
Dean
3
Central Boiler / Re: New To The Game!
« on: February 12, 2012, 10:11:50 PM »Can anyone post video of these things running? I hear they are smoke free...
My E-Classic 1400 runs smoke free when it is high burn mode. However, it is not in high mode every cycle. Something to keep in mind.
Dean
4
Central Boiler / Re: CB classic vs. e-classic reviews
« on: February 10, 2012, 09:46:09 AM »
I am on my third season with an E-Classic 1400. It takes me very little maintenance to keep it running. I have not had any problems with it in three years.
I have the routine maintenance down to 30 minutes every two weeks. This is less work than I did with my indoor fireplace burning only 2 cords of wood.
Reading and talking to those that have owned both gassification stoves and non-gassification stoves, I concluded that I burn about 3-4 cords less wood with my high efficiency gassification furnace. If the time it takes to maintain my stove is 30 minutes every two weeks - then that is 8-10 hours per year in maintenance. If the time to maintain a conventional OWB was zero, then I spend 8-10 extra hours in maintenance on my high efficiency stove. It would take this somewhat old guy much longer than 8 hours to drop, block, split, stack and feed the extra 4 cords of wood.
It seems that those who own a conventional OWB are happy with their purchase and those that have the gassification OWBs are happy with their purchase. This is a good thing.
If possible, talk to those that have owned both. If one were to disregard all the posts about the early E-Classic 2300s (a stove that is no longer manufactured), then the comments are, IMO, very positive on the gassification type OWBs.
Also, be sure to check with the county that you live in, you may not have a choice. A lot of counties require new wood stove installations to be EPA II certified. Of course, this is because they don't pollute as much, which makes for better relations with the neighbors.
Good luck with your decision, Dean
I have the routine maintenance down to 30 minutes every two weeks. This is less work than I did with my indoor fireplace burning only 2 cords of wood.
Reading and talking to those that have owned both gassification stoves and non-gassification stoves, I concluded that I burn about 3-4 cords less wood with my high efficiency gassification furnace. If the time it takes to maintain my stove is 30 minutes every two weeks - then that is 8-10 hours per year in maintenance. If the time to maintain a conventional OWB was zero, then I spend 8-10 extra hours in maintenance on my high efficiency stove. It would take this somewhat old guy much longer than 8 hours to drop, block, split, stack and feed the extra 4 cords of wood.
It seems that those who own a conventional OWB are happy with their purchase and those that have the gassification OWBs are happy with their purchase. This is a good thing.
If possible, talk to those that have owned both. If one were to disregard all the posts about the early E-Classic 2300s (a stove that is no longer manufactured), then the comments are, IMO, very positive on the gassification type OWBs.
Also, be sure to check with the county that you live in, you may not have a choice. A lot of counties require new wood stove installations to be EPA II certified. Of course, this is because they don't pollute as much, which makes for better relations with the neighbors.
Good luck with your decision, Dean
5
Central Boiler / Re: How long has your boiler been operating. Long term
« on: January 22, 2012, 12:11:48 PM »
This is our 3rd season with our E-Classic 1400. Fired it up late 2009.
We have it in use for 8 months per year. So, about 20 months (600 days) of heat from this stove so far.
The only item to fail or be replaced was the grate rods.
We have it in use for 8 months per year. So, about 20 months (600 days) of heat from this stove so far.
The only item to fail or be replaced was the grate rods.
6
Central Boiler / Re: melting e classic
« on: December 23, 2011, 09:31:17 AM »
The early E-Classic 2300s had problems with deformation and cracking of the fusion chamber. I believe the fusion chambers were replaced under warranty with a modified version. If it is not very badly deformed or cracked, it won't effect performance and one could wait until end of season to replace it.
I have not heard of any problems with fusion chambers on other models.
I have not heard of any problems with fusion chambers on other models.
7
Central Boiler / Re: How clean should the firebox be?
« on: December 23, 2011, 09:27:08 AM »
Like a couple have posted above, Ashtrol is a pH modifier that helps neutralize acids in the firebox. It will do nothing for the creosote. It is worth using, in my opinion, for it's intended purpose.
Rodger, I wouldn't run an E-Classic with the bypass door open for very long. It is not designed to do so - the manual states "Caution: Leaving the bypass door open for prologed periods during operation may cause damage to components of the outdoor furnace."
Burning with the bypass open will burn not burn any of the creosote that builds open in the bottom and only marginally effect the top and sides. The creosote on the top and sides is never a problem for me. The creosote will build up in the lower corners and sides and with the proper tools, one can easily clean those every few days. When one has a very hot fire, most of the creosote on the top and sides just liquifies and runs down to the bottom.
Rodger, I wouldn't run an E-Classic with the bypass door open for very long. It is not designed to do so - the manual states "Caution: Leaving the bypass door open for prologed periods during operation may cause damage to components of the outdoor furnace."
Burning with the bypass open will burn not burn any of the creosote that builds open in the bottom and only marginally effect the top and sides. The creosote on the top and sides is never a problem for me. The creosote will build up in the lower corners and sides and with the proper tools, one can easily clean those every few days. When one has a very hot fire, most of the creosote on the top and sides just liquifies and runs down to the bottom.
8
Central Boiler / Re: My OWB installation - self install
« on: December 17, 2011, 11:20:13 AM »
A professional install and well documented.
I too, did 100% of my installation. It take a lot of hours, but one can get it like they want it done.
I took a lot of photos during the installation as well.
Thanks for sharing, Dean
I too, did 100% of my installation. It take a lot of hours, but one can get it like they want it done.
I took a lot of photos during the installation as well.
Thanks for sharing, Dean
9
Central Boiler / Re: CB 1400E Setting
« on: December 09, 2011, 11:38:11 AM »In theory, a cord of hardwood should last nearly twice as long as a cord of pine..... thus making it slightly more economical in the long run at the prices you gave!Oh, not to mention, less "fill-ups".
I come up with different numbers from the BTU Chart:
Oak, Red - Quercus rubra - 3,757 weight in pounds per cord - 24 mbtu
Pine, Ponderosa - Pinus ponderosa - 2,380 weight in pounds per cord - 15.2 mbtu
24.0/15.2 = 63.3 percent
63.3 percent of the price of hard wood at $325/cord = $206/cord for pine (In my area of Colorado pine is $160 per cord and oak is $300 plus)
Living here in Colorado, I have done the numbers and pine is the most economical to purchase. In my case, I cut it from my own property. I also have Douglas fir on the property which has better numbers (18.1). Occasionally I have some Aspen (a not so good hardwood at 14.7).
I would much prefer my firewood to be hardwood, but we use what is available and Colorado is a great place to live.
10
Central Boiler / Re: Just bought E2400 install pics to come.
« on: December 08, 2011, 09:59:07 AM »Purchased and E2400 last wk way it sounds it wont ship fron CB till around the 10th. Am starting plate to plate converter and sidearm install tom. Hopefully get the thermopex in the ground pad for burner and wood shed poured nxt wk also.
IMO: Any extra work and expense you go to during the Thermopex installation will pay off later.
11
Central Boiler / Re: CB 1400E Setting
« on: December 08, 2011, 09:38:07 AM »My question is what settings should the pulse "timeout and "length be for maximum efficiency. Manual doesn't give much information and neither does my dealer. At 14 minutes of "timeout" and 50 sec. for length fire will not stay lit and it seems like I am using more wood then I should but not sure. At my current settings (see below) it works fine but, again, seems like I am burring a lot of wood. So far this season Oct / Nov have used almost two cords.
Thanks for any help in advance.
1400 sq ft home well insulated
heat hot water with boiler
Wood used is Pine
In house temp settings: N=68 D=70
Current settings. Timeout = 10 min.
Length = 50 sec
Altitude: 7100 ft.
Attitude: TBD
Hi Greg,
I have owned and operated my E-1400 for three years and still learning. Here is my setup.
4300 sq ft home well insulated (700 square of that is shut off and kept at 50 degrees, and 1,300 square foot of that is basement)
heat hot water with boiler
Wood used is Ponderosa Pine & Douglas Fir
In house temp settings: N=68 D=70
Current settings. Timeout = 20 min.
Length = 55 sec
Altitude: 7600 ft. Rocky Mountains
Yes, very similar to yours, expect for area heated.
Wood used so far, 1 1/2 cords of pine and fir mix (started stove Oct 10, so about 2 months - the other nights low temp was -13 degrees)
My thoughts:
Pine & fir is the only wood that is available to some of us. It will burn fine, just keep the numbers in mind. When we use 3 cords, it is equivalent to other hardwood users using 2 cords. (In round numbers)
I don't believe the Idle "Pulse" Timeout and the Idle "Pulse" Length numbers will effect wood usage. Set them to what keeps the fire from going out.
Here are some things to consider that will effect wood usage.
1) Quality of wood
2) Moisture content of wood
3) Length of furnace water line
4) Type of water line used
5) Installation of water line (depth, moisture around water line, additional insulation)
6) Heat Load: Square footage of house and it's insulation (discussed above)
12
Central Boiler / Re: E-Classic 1400 Operating Like a Champ
« on: November 15, 2011, 12:11:11 PM »
Roger,
Good news and thanks for the update.
I agree with your statement about the efficiency of the E-Classic 1400. With a good installation that stove performs very well indeed.
Good news and thanks for the update.
I agree with your statement about the efficiency of the E-Classic 1400. With a good installation that stove performs very well indeed.
13
Central Boiler / Re: Giving it another try
« on: November 06, 2011, 09:44:45 PM »
Marty, Thanks so much for the kind words.
14
Central Boiler / Re: Giving it another try
« on: November 06, 2011, 07:21:55 PM »
Hi Roger,
Sorry to hear you're still having problems. I have my temperature swing set to 13 degrees difference (180 - 193). I don't think the gassification units operate as efficiently cycling so often. I base that on watching mine. It has to run for a little while before I get reaction chamber temperatures up around 1,000 degrees. If it short cycled, I am not sure it would get there. My two cents.
If you still have no luck and want to talk, shoot me a PM and I will send you my phone number.
Dean
Sorry to hear you're still having problems. I have my temperature swing set to 13 degrees difference (180 - 193). I don't think the gassification units operate as efficiently cycling so often. I base that on watching mine. It has to run for a little while before I get reaction chamber temperatures up around 1,000 degrees. If it short cycled, I am not sure it would get there. My two cents.
If you still have no luck and want to talk, shoot me a PM and I will send you my phone number.
Dean
15
General Discussion / Re: Hello - Experienced Outdoor Wood Boiler user saying Hello!
« on: November 03, 2011, 10:07:17 AM »
Thanks for the warm welcomes.
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