Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers WITH EPA-Certified Models => HeatMaster => Topic started by: hondaracer2oo4 on September 13, 2017, 10:37:16 AM
-
I know we have had some questions as far as real temp readings over the g200 heat exchangers. I have measured temps between 300-375 leaving the stack with my IR gun. I just ordered this off eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/BBQ-Smoker-Grill-Stainless-Steel-Thermometer-Temperature-Gauge-60-427-E8-/132065167659?epid=2003963382&hash=item1ebfb2892b:g:9ZEAAOSwnHZYer2q
I think it will give a more accurate reading and it will be easy to just open the door and take a look. My plan is to drill a hole in the back plate and mig weld a nut onto the outside of the plate so that I can thread the gauge in and out to clean off any ash from the probe. Anyone see any problems with this plan? Any issues with using mild steel wire in the mig to weld on the stainless plate?
-
I think that if you look on YOUR stove that there is a spot right below the insulated smokepipe where I used to have a candy thermometer inserted into the exhaust, this is what is known as the breach and is typically where stack temps are measured from.
-
Mild steel wire on this application won’t cause any issues. I’ve had times where stainless wire just kept cracking on a fertilizer spreader, finally welded it with standard 7018 rod and was end of the issue.
-
Slim, I just looked and there is nothing drilled. I think you had that temp probe on that 2014 model that you exchanged out. i don't think I am going to be able install the gauge right over the fan box where the breach is because of the size of the gauge itself and the fan box being right there. I can't imagine that the temp of the area above the heat exchangers is going to be a huge difference between that and above the inducer fan.
Thanks Marty, I'll weld it up with the mig and then spray paint the area that I grinded and welded.
-
You guys are wasting your time and money trying to figure out who's stove is 100*deg cooler. There are to many variables to the puzzle. If the water temp is at 150*F. It's going to be a cooler reading than if at 175*F.
I know one thing for sure most gasifiers are better at capturing heat than the conventionals.
So a six inch heating duct moving 100*F air at 60 cubic feet per minute. Equates to what in one gallon of water temp btu == sh!T.
X 60 min = maybe two sh!T =which is one piece of wood.
-
It's an interesting experiment. Comparing residual O2 would be interesting too.
But any accurate efficiency test would require careful measurement of wood weight and moisture content, then putting a very specific BTU load on the unit til it runs out of wood.
A lot of variables for sure.
-
Oh I don’t know, stack temp would still be interesting regardless. Can be generally said irregardless of wood burnt or how much, cooler stack temp is gonna equal to higher efficiency. My old homemade averaged around 750 degrees.
Didn’t the certifying labs use sawn lumber that was kiln dried? IE all pieces identical size and length? I know on my old one if I needed more heat I loaded more small pieces as they burnt faster, for over night loaded more large unsplit pieces.
-
Haha, yes some people will say it's useless. I think it will be interesting to see the difference in temp say before and after shaking the turbulator handles. Also temps before and after cleaning the ash from the reaction chamber and below the hx tubes. Temps with a load of oak vs maple. I think it will be interesting.
-
Another temp reading that would add to the equation would be the reaction chamber temp. If that is low and you are getting a low stack temp reading it could be worse than a high reaction chamber reading and a higher stack temp reading. Getting the near complete burn of wasted particle is #1 objective, #2 would be recovery of that heat. An old conventional can have a low stack temp still be terrible inefficient. So many variables but is something interesting to watch what it does under different conditions.
-
Yes I would love to have a temp probe in the reaction chamber like cb has.
-
Well Honda, if yours doesn't have a hole then just above the transition from uninsulated to the insulated you could drill a small hole in the insulated pipe and insert a temp probe in there, Polar boilers come pre drilled and have a stack temp gauge with them, we could even use the same temp gauge! I can't help with the reaction chamber temps but I do have a very good combustion analyzer that I use when setting up new oil boilers that we can bring along.
-
Actually Ben, it's our time to waste, are you concerned about something? My fuel, my customer, my time , my tools and oh yes my LIBERTY, thank you!
-
Thanks for the offer slim, I'll let you know if I will need a hand. How large is the polar temp gauge? I'll have to take a look and see tomorrow how much pipe there is between the top of the roof and the insulated pipe where I can drill the hole and have enough clearance for the gauge face to not hit the top of the roof. Obviously the "breach" is the ultimate location to place the sensor but I still can't imagine the temp difference is much between that and the area above the hxs. I assume your combustion analyzer you use is placed somewhere in the breach area as well, not the reaction chamber because those probes are just RTD sensors I thought, not capable of the extreme temps.
-
I just Reread your post and you suggested drilling a hole in the insulated pipe itself. For some reason I thought before that someone suggested against drilling a hole in the insulated pipe for some reason that I can't remember now.
-
There is no reason not to, we do it all the time with single wall oil burner pipe and use venture tape to seal it back up after the analyzer has been used, again Polar actually does it at the factory and places a sticker over the hole telling you to insert the probe there.
-
Ok sounds good, I thought it had something to do with moisture getting into the insulation of the double wall pipe or something but I can't remember. Not sure what I will do about mounting though. I don't want to weld a nut to that stainless pipe. I'll have to see how long the probe is too once the gauge gets here, I think the double wall pipe is about 1 inch in thickness.
-
Save your money, I'm ordering stoves today and I'll have them stick a couple of extra temp gauges on the truck, they are nice because they have a second pointer that shows the highest temp reached since last reset.
-
Save your money, I'm ordering stoves today and I'll have them stick a couple of extra temp gauges on the truck, they are nice because they have a second pointer that shows the highest temp reached since last reset.
Nice, I could think of a few places to stick one of those in the grain drying setup.
-
I'll get out the maker when I can, they aren't expensive!
-
Alrighty, I will hold off on drilling the hole. The one I bought from ebay was only 6 bucks so no big loss. I will stop by early October to get it from you when I head up to close camp.
-
I'll have a few of them on the shelf in the shed.
-
Awesome, let me know how much they are and I'll leave the money with Mary Lou or wherever you want.
-
For testing purposes, there will be no charge, don't worry I'll deduct it on my taxes!!!!!!!!!
-
Thanks Richard! 8)
-
Out of curiosity what temps are you seeing out of the polar stack?
-
Never seen above 320 degrees! That's at this last show in Lancaster where the ambient temp was close to 80 degrees and we were running it hard!
-
Never seen above 320 degrees! That's at this last show in Lancaster where the ambient temp was close to 80 degrees and we were running it hard!
That is impressive!
-
26-99 circs on high through 1 inch radiator hose, one for domestic hot water and the other feeding my 18x18 rad with squirrel cage blower, basically a home made air handler.