Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => General Outdoor Furnace Discussion => Topic started by: Bluegrass Wood Burner on October 26, 2017, 04:05:12 PM
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Wife called today while I was at work and said the house was cooling down and duct blowers running continuous. I had her go out and read the temp for me on the boiler. It was 180. Oh no I said. New it was something costly. My question is this boiler had a Wilo on it went they installed and it's a small one(10gpm and 10 feet high capable.) I really don't know why I hadn't already had trouble. The run is only 75 feet however it travels up the brick wall on outside the house and through the attic to the air handlers. It then y's off and travels through separate heat exchangers. What would you recommend for pumps as far as size, brand, etc. I called the company I bought the boiler from and they did it should at least be a 25-30gpm. I wish they would have told me 3 years ago when I bought it new. Probably shouldn't have lasted this long. The reason for the attic run is there is no crawl space or basement in my house. Whole house sits on concrete slab. All 5400 sqft. All ducts and air handlers are in attic.
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Without more info a Grunfos 15-58 on high might handle it, a Grunfos 26-99 definitely will.
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How much and what size pipe in the house? Total length of the entire loop from boiler to furthest point and back would be helpful. How many exchangers? I'm pretty fond of the Grundfos 26-99 on all boiler loops over 100 feet round trip. Amp draw is almost nothing on low speed, and if you need more flow there's plenty available.
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About 40 feet of 1" pex so inside loop is 80 outside is about the same. So 160 foot loop. My ceiling are all 11 feet so the water claims around 13 feet before it goes through the soffit.
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Use the taco TD10 to size your pump correctly. Just google taco td10. It walks you step by step how to siZe a pump correctly. You will learn how your system and piping works too. Just FYI, you can't push more than 7-8 gpm through 1 inch pex.
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Use the taco TD10 to size your pump correctly. Just google taco td10. It walks you step by step how to siZe a pump correctly. You will learn how your system and piping works too. Just FYI, you can't push more than 7-8 gpm through 1 inch pex.
Somebody really needs to make an app for that, drop down box for pipe size, pipe type, water temp, etc etc. Then go all third party and have multiple brands to select from. I have a Taco Delta T pump on my house loop, wouldn’t be my first choice if B&G or Grunfos offered a Delta T.
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There are no retail stores in the area I live in for me to go and look and listen to someone offer suggestions on Boiler parts. That's where you guys come in. I will be ordering this new pump over Internet and do t won't to make a mistake that will bite me for a long time. I was hoping to find one in the 150.00 range.
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There seems to be two die groups of pumps -sorta. The 15-58, NRF-22 B&G, 0015 taco, etc..less than $100.
Then you have the 26-99, 0011, etc. in the $200 range. Guaranteed to blow out air.
The B&G NRF-25 is sti under a hundred and gives a bit more velocity to clean out air. Probably what I'd use but I always plumb in a tee into the domestic water to purge air thoroughly before starting up.
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I ordered the 26/99. I believe it will do a good job for my situation. 150.00 with free shipping
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I ordered the 26/99. I believe it will do a good job for my situation. 150.00 with free shipping
They're usually almost double that. I have bought my last few from that dude on eBay for 150 also, and they've come in factory packaging and work well so far. You'll be much happier with some flow over what you had before. Keep us informed when it's installed!
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Will I need the flow check? Notice on my eBay account it said with flow check. What is flow check? I assume by reading other post I can remove it if it's not needed. Problem is I don't know if I will or not.
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The flow check is a check valve, in your case since your pumping up to the attic it will keep the water in the supply side from draining back into the stove when the pump is off.
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I don't think he needs a flow check as it can't flow back without a leak to allow air in to break the vacuum right? I thought the flow check was to prevent flow when it's teed off or such like where another pump creates flow.
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In the case of a leak it would still flow back to the furnace in the return line and empty the attic. There is no reason for a check in the primary pump. I don't like them in a pump just for the reason it's easy to air lock a pump. If you need a check to prevent 'ghost flow' you can put it down flow from the pump even on the return line and give some room for air to pass through the pump without locking in the pump. Anytime a line empties it must be replaced with air. If there is no place to get air water will stay in the pipe no matter how high it is.
Got a cummins right now that empties it's fuel back to the tank overnight and has to pump back up to start in the morning. I know there is a small leak somewhere I need to find.
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I'm with those fellas^^^. It doesn't sound like a check is necessary for your application anyway, but the reason I always pull them out is that they tend to melt at 200* or so. Warm days certain boilers tend to overshoot a bit, especially P&M, and melt the checks in the pump and cause a no-flow condition eventually ruining the pump
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I'm gonna replace the pump myself when it arrives middle of week. Is there anything I need to know about doing my first pump install? Also will the check valve be easy to remove?
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Yank the check out with a pliers. Not difficult.
Close valves on supply and return, unbolt, put o rings on the new one, clean the flanges off, be sure to pump the right direction, bolt it up, open valves. Not hard at all.
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During the idle season back in June I re wrapped all the visible pipe coming out of ground to the ports on back of the boiler. My question is should I have wrapped the pump. I'm wandering if the pump may have gotten too hot being wrapped so tight. I wrapped it tight all up and down. Could that pump have overheated to the pump it burned the motor out on it? Just don't want to make same mistake on my new pump if that's the case.
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In most cases I'd say no. To burn out an electric motor it needs to go over 300 degrees to melt wires and winding. The pump is cooled by the water even if it is 200 degrees. However I have seen more than one Wilo pump electrical connection box deteriorate in a hot environment like the back of a stove. Three speed have really bad failure rate. We don't use them. Use a name brand pump and you should be good in my opinion. Others may have a different view.
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I ordered the Grundfos 26/99 FC. Supposed to arrive here Wednesday.
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But I wouldn't wrap the pump just to keep the electrical connections a smidge cooler.
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i ordered the same pump! expecting it tomorrow
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I shouldn't have told you where to find those pumps cheap lol I tried to order another 5 yesterday and they're all sold out! :bash: NRF-36 it is for the next couple I guess. I just replaced a Taco and a B&G on Friday that the guy had wrapped up with fiberglass, both of them were fried. I wouldn't wrap them I guess. Water does cool them but so does the surrounding air
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After I ordered it I found them even cheaper at Dobbs Brothers in Missouri @ 135.00 free shipping. Google them and take advantage of it.
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That's a steal for a 26-99. Wow.
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Folks I got the new pump and installed about an hour ago. Couldn't be happier. It's working great and my house is steadily warming up. I am noticing warmer return temps with the higher gpms.. From 8-20 makes a big difference. Thanks to all who guided me on this.
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:thumbup:
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In the case of a leak it would still flow back to the furnace in the return line and empty the attic. There is no reason for a check in the primary pump. I don't like them in a pump just for the reason it's easy to air lock a pump. If you need a check to prevent 'ghost flow' you can put it down flow from the pump even on the return line and give some room for air to pass through the pump without locking in the pump. Anytime a line empties it must be replaced with air. If there is no place to get air water will stay in the pipe no matter how high it is.
Got a cummins right now that empties it's fuel back to the tank overnight and has to pump back up to start in the morning. I know there is a small leak somewhere I need to find.
The little o-ring on top of the fuel filter cap is almost always the culprit.