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Messages - Jack72

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181
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: pictures
« on: February 04, 2012, 07:52:51 PM »
Hello everyone

First year with E-Classic-1450       This summer well needed landscape and concrete around the OWB area.

Jack                   

[attachment deleted by admin]

182
Plumbing / question on 20 plate also
« on: February 04, 2012, 06:23:21 AM »
 Hello everyone
I have a side arm now with a recirculating pump on the bottom side of sidearm exchanger   to  help force the water through the exchanger for quicker recovery (it constanly circulates through the exchanger instead of thery of automactic circulation through heat rising and creating a automatic circulation  If that makes sense)         My question is I would like to make sure I dont run out.        MY question is could I get a 20 plate installed before the cold water supply coming in the water heater to say preheat or make hot coming into tank and run seperate supply to mixing valve cold port.               I would like to install after my hot water to air exchanger (just because I have the sidearm already)       on my house furnace so I dont affect the air temp coming out of the registers.           I hope this makes sense           Its been good usually the problem I have is on weekends when wife is doing alot of loads of wash and showers etc catching up from long work week.                        ( I think everything is right as far as my hookup(piping)      My tank could be bigger maybe I should of bough a 50 gal or 75 (I have a 40 gal now in the off position)       Dont get me wrong I have alot of hot water now but when the wife is doing 3-6 loads of ex-large loads of hot water right after another and then wants to hop in shower after the wash is done the water hasn't caught up yet and her shower is just warm not hot         That does not go over well  >:(      She lets me know if you know what I mean she does not want to wait 10-20 minutes for the tank to catch up   which I know thats all it would take to catch up      Thanks everyone         

Jack     

183
General Discussion / Re: e classic 1400
« on: January 29, 2012, 08:53:57 PM »
Hello welcome
If your going to buy I suggest the 1450 over the 1400


I have a e 1450 it has a couple of nice features that they have added it basically the same as the 2400 but smaller           what the difference is from the 1400 the back door to assess the reaction chamber is a hinged door that just swings open no panels to remove     also the firebox has the charge tube    and primary air holes in each corner   the panel has a bypass door alarm so when your door is open it will alarm just to remind you so you dont accidently walk away and leave in the bypass.          They are  not much higher in price maybe 300 bucks I think over the 1450 not much for what they have added I think.    I have a water to heat exchanger in my forced air system eventuallyI would like to add  pex under floors when the money tree starts growing again                  I built  in 2003          2400 ranch on a 4 ft crawl it heats my house no problem.         

sorry Im a little late with my post just saw it maybe you have it already


Good luck on purchase          Jack

Hi Jack72,  Everytime I have to gain access to the reaction chamber and need to remove the outer panel before getting to the inner door, I have made a mental note to myself to hinge that thing this summer.  Although it's a minor inconvenience to remove the out panel, it's still a pain in the keaster.  The alarm on your e1450 is the same as I have on my e1400.  It's a great reminder to self that the dang by-pass door is open. 

I have a couple of concerns though about the e1400 and perhaps CB has rectified them on the e1450 and if they did, what did they do to it?  No matter how hard I try I can not keep creosote from building in the air holes.  What I have been doing for the past couple of weeks, every Saturday morning I clear the firebox of any unburned pieces, any ash and the red hot coals go into a metal wheel barrow to use to rekindle the fire when I'm done servicing the OWB.  I have sacrificed a screwdriver, bent it nearly to 90 degree so I can poke the holes to remove the creosote build up.  I have to pay close attention to the holes at the far end of the firebox.  For some reason, the creosote gathers for more quicker than any of the other holes.

In the rear of the OWB, where the blower is located, you'll find a removal panel that houses the solenoids that open and close the traps that controls the air flow to the firebox.  I decided yesterday to inspect them while I was servicing it and the larger of the 2 was about 1/2 full of creosote.  Don't ask me how it got there but I took the time to clean it out.  Do you happen to know if CB makes a tool to clear the air holes inside the firebox of creosote?  I don't mind doing what I have to do to make this thing work as efficiently as possible but you have to hold you breath while you have your head inside the fire box.   Thanks, Roger


Hey Roger

I dont know about the tool for the air chambers/ traps    I need to check mine too.          as far as the the cresote in the air holes I have a little bit in there and I have also a bent screw driver going on too   (thats for the sides and back)        In the corners which I dont think you have but they are removeable I knock them out with a hammer and clean with a wire brush          I may have one quicker step though once I loosen it all up   I have a ash vac that I have for the fire place in the house   I use that now to suck each hole out and then I dont have to stick my head in there as much           I know what you mean you have to hold your breath.        They have never been completly plugged maybe the most quarter full    What type of wood are you burner and are you fairly dry on your moisture??               

Jack

184
General Discussion / Re: e classic 1400
« on: January 29, 2012, 08:41:22 PM »
Thanks for the info Jack. I have been trying to get info about the e 1450 but the dealer said he did not have any yet.

My dealer had a 1400 sitting in his yard he wanted me to buy it because I dont think they are going to make the 1400 any more once they stop the classics in March  I told him I wanted the 1450 with the improvements they had made from the 1400  so he ordered it I had it in week and half at my front door                   Also I forgot to mention My reaction chamber is in the back access door not on the side like I think the 1400 is ( I could be wrong on that maybe Roger can tell us )          I think they are going to make the 1450 2400 3200      I could be wrong but thats what I heard            Jack

185
Central Boiler / Re: water driping from door
« on: January 29, 2012, 08:21:53 PM »
Hello   Hddmax66

I have a downdraft furnace        I plan on not running my boiler in the non heating season.       But I can tell you this if your heat exchanger is BELOW your   A-coil for your A/C      you need to to valve it off and drain your heat exchanger (make sure all water is out)     because your a -coil will freeze your heat exchanger and you will have a big leak come next winter             Unless you dont have A/C    P.S .       I wouldnt think that the constant heat would hurt the furnace without a zone valve your just heating the heat exchanger for nothing

Jack 

186
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: water to air exchanger
« on: January 29, 2012, 07:26:33 AM »
It would likely cause moisture problems too...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for replys


Scott
floor is well protected now from moisture coming up I dont think I would have that issue

187
General Discussion / Re: e classic 1400
« on: January 29, 2012, 05:41:24 AM »
Hello welcome
If your going to buy I suggest the 1450 over the 1400


I have a e 1450 it has a couple of nice features that they have added it basically the same as the 2400 but smaller           what the difference is from the 1400 the back door to access the reaction chamber is a hinged door that just swings open no panels to remove     also the firebox has the charge tube    and primary air holes in each corner   the panel has a bypass door alarm so when your door is open it will alarm just to remind you so you dont accidently walk away and leave in the bypass.          They are  not much higher in price maybe 300 bucks I think over the 1450 not much for what they have added I think.    I have a water to heat exchanger in my forced air system eventuallyI would like to add  pex under floors when the money tree starts growing again                  I built  in 2003          2400 ranch on a 4 ft crawl it heats my house no problem.         

sorry Im a little late with my post just saw it maybe you have it already


Good luck on purchase          Jack

188
Plumbing / Crawlspace
« on: January 29, 2012, 05:27:11 AM »
Hello Everyone

Has anyone ever tried to heat  their crawlspace with a hanging unit rather than pex under the floor joist??

As long as you were insulated at the end of joist bays and vents real good it may take awhile to warm up but I would think once you had it warmed up to say 90 or 100 degrees it would start to warm floors too?        Just curious if anyone has tried it            Thanks   
   
Report to moderator    99.135.95.27

189
Hello Everyone

Has anyone ever tried to heat  their crawlspace with a hanging unit rather than pex under the floor joist??

As long as you were insulated at the end of joist bays and vents real good it may take awhile to warm up but I would think once you had it warmed up to say 90 or 100 degrees it would start to warm floors too?        Just curious if anyone has tried it            Thanks   
 

190
thanks martyinmi.  That post was helpful.  My local hawken dealer claims that the gassers are not much more efficient than the non gassers.  he says maybe 2 or 3 points which brings me to my first question.  What do the "points" transfer into laymens terms?  Second, why would he try to sell me a lower priced unit?  The hawken GX 10 is around 8 and the HE 2100 is around 7200 (quoted). Last, I've been told there is a lot more maintenance to gassers which kind of goes against what you were saying about less cleaning time.  What are your opinions on maintenance between the two?

 Thanks.  You all have been helpful.
                                           Hello Chadley       
  Your dealer is probably trying to sell a non gasser because he knows that they are going to be outlawed soon in all states and he is going to be stuck with them.          I love my CB e 1450 it takes me 10-15 minutes for a good cleaning               whenever I reload the firebox with  wood I open the the slot around the charge tube to make sure it gets good air flow around the the charge tube and IM good takes a extra 20 seconds and Im good and close door  I cant comment on a non gasser never had one.    The only thing that I think could be better would be the bigger firebox where you could really load up and be good for days if you had to leave for a emergency for 3-4 days    I dont think I could make it more than 24 hours on mine without a reload at 10 degrees outside             Jack 

191
Plumbing / Re: Sidearm help
« on: January 21, 2012, 06:59:13 AM »
Here is a pic of my set up. I have 2 Teenage Girls and never run out of hot water. Mine is first then the furnance and I also plummed the incoming boiler water to the top of the sidearm and leave the bottom. Some will say that it wrong but it works. I am no thermo expert. LOL. but many years ago when I was in the navy you always entered colling water at the coolest point of the heat exchanger and flowed to the hotest part. and the reverse for heating. so I plumed all my stuff that way. Good luck Because it saves me 25 bucks on the old electric bill ! Oh and dont forget the anti scald device. I have had 183 degree water come from the kitchen sink.


I put a recir pump on mine to force through the side arm seems too have quicker recovery during high demands     I was having trouble with keeping enough supply on high demand weekends   washing clothes showers etc.         Two daughters and a wife           Thanks Jack

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