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Messages - mlappin

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31
Site Suggestions / Re: update EPA units
« on: August 29, 2020, 10:26:44 AM »
The list of manufacturers with EPA approved units is considerably shorter post May 2020. Can the site be updated?

You talking the section of the forum that lists all the manufactures? So remove the ones that DONT have 2020 units and move them to the manufacturers that don’t have compliant stoves section?

32
General Discussion / Re: Drill bits
« on: May 20, 2020, 10:30:24 PM »
Norseman is good, I also have a set of Huot thats holding up reasonably well. MSC Direct also has a good selection.

Best bet is to learn how to sharpen em, Drill Doctor don’t count either as they are crap. On a good day I can grind a split point back into a broken bit, on a REALLY good day I can sharpen my 3 flute 1 3/4” bit and have all three flutes make curls evenly. Drill a bunch of 1/2 or 5/8 holes in a semi frame and you get good quick.

Can’t remember the brand, but the welding shop in town has some real high dollar ones, like $25-30 for one 3/8” bit.

33
Plumbing / Re: Manifold Ciculation Pump Stopped Working
« on: April 17, 2020, 08:17:15 AM »
Strange, I’ve literally never had a grundfos stick. I’ve seen a few B&G’s that i took a small screwdriver and reached in thru the fins and gave the fan a flick to get em running.

34
General DIY remodeling without Hydronics / Re: AC2 treated lumber
« on: April 09, 2020, 11:23:26 AM »
I talked to Sherwin Williams and they have a few recommendations, for the AC2 treated you can use an acrylic primer sealer and use anything over that, or a outdoor oil based primer/sealer can be used. They recommended the oil based as I have equipment enamel in the shop for painting the Olivers.

35
That is really neat. Perfect way to preserve it.

Thats what I thought, and the skim coat is very delicate, I used a paint brush to clean the plaster off the best I could. I called our counties historical society and they were stumped but was supposed to have a curator from a museum call me on the best way to preserve it, they never called.

Originally I though about clear poly, but was afraid it would wipe out the pencil, thought about spray on as well, even thought about contact paper, problem was if any of those yellowed with age your hosed. The plexiglass should stay clear forever as no UV rays can make it in there.

36
General DIY remodeling without Hydronics / AC2 treated lumber
« on: April 07, 2020, 11:15:50 AM »
Have a new sign to make, what’s the recommended primer and paint for the new AC2 lumber?

I went to Menards awhile back as we have a new mega one, even treated is kept inside, figured it would be dryer than the stuff I’ve seen water running off when they bring it into the store at Lowes. Moisture meter says it’s under 15% but water still beads so not sure its dry enough yet to paint.

37
How the plexiglass turned out, a small diamond bit for counter tops made short work of the pilot holes in the Plexiglas and lathe and plaster without busting it up.


Stairwell to closet by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

Stairwell to closet by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

Stairwell to closet by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

38
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: March 31, 2020, 08:55:20 PM »
Stripped the lathe and plaster on the walls then just the plaster on the ceiling as it had 6” of blown in above it. Screwed strips of 1/2” plywood to the ceiling joists to keep the lathe tight and act as a spacer, then added a 1” foil faced polystyrene insulation board, then screwed 2x4’s over the insulation and fastened the drywall to that so ended up with a double dead airspace to add to the insulation value.


Wall heat on the Cheap by Marty Lappin, on Flickr


Picture of the temps partway thru a heating cycle. Diminishing returns seem to add up faster with this than say baseboard. 64 to 70 is pretty fast actually, little more than an hour on a room thats a little under 12’ x 15’,  out of curiosity once its over 73 it takes a LONG time to keep gaining any, might take as long to gain another degree once its over 73 as it did to get it from 64 to 70.

Wall heat on the Cheap by Marty Lappin, on Flickr


Wall heat on the Cheap by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

39
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: March 31, 2020, 08:42:59 PM »
Middle stud bay, only one that came close to a standard width, at one time there was a door in two different spots in that wall. Placed a piece of lathe between the pex and the foil insulation as it was heating the wall up pretty good on the bedroom side. Wasn’t sure if it would cause issues with the drywall later.
 
Wall heat on the Cheap by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

One of the narrow ones, still managed to get at least 75’ of pipe in it, just kept the coils closer together.

Wall heat on the Cheap by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

First one I did, have a 4”x10” register top and bottom on the bedroom side of the wall. Used a piece of insulation board caulked in place top and bottom to seal the stud bay off.

Wall heat on the Cheap by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

Irwin 1” speed bit with a 10-12” extension was just barely long enough to get thru the beam into the basement.

Wall heat on the Cheap by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

Those speed bits just eat batteries once they grab hold.

Wall heat on the Cheap by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

40
Is the shop not close enough that you could heat your home as well?

41
Planting tine is quickly coming up anyways and it always seems like that’s a self imposed quarantine or social distancing from “normal” folk.

42
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: March 15, 2020, 08:22:10 PM »
You can definitely feel the heat coming out, like 116-118 degrees out of each one. Much to my wife’s horror there was a cobweb above the one you could visibly see getting moved around when it was on.

Once I have the Mac back up and running I’ll post some pictures, trying to do it from my smart phone is a bad joke at best.

43
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: March 13, 2020, 10:59:15 AM »
Still working on finishing up the office, did three stud bays with a minimum of 75’ of 1/2” pex in each one then have a 4x10 register in the top and bottom of each bay, all I can say is it works better than I could have hoped. Room is slightly under 12’ x 15’ and raised it 5 degrees in just over an hour.

44
DIY remodeling with Hydronics / Re: Copper tubing for wall heat?
« on: February 06, 2020, 10:17:56 PM »
Just thinking out loud here, but what about 2 or 3 water to air heat exchangers mounted in that stud space, tied together in series and use those as your copper slinky?  That should offer a ton of surface area for the air to convect across and probably transfer more heat.

Actually I was messing around on Supplyhouse and came across replacement H1 elements with jumbo fins, stack em three high and output is over 1700btu/ft instead of 580ish/foot. Wonder what the diminishing returns are? Would a fourth one in the stack add any more BTU’s or do they figure by time the air hits the top one its as hot as it’s gonna get?

Didn’t want to mess around with dozens of elbows to do that, however I have a swedging tool somewhere for an air chisel.

45
General DIY remodeling without Hydronics / Re: Best type of closet door?
« on: February 05, 2020, 10:55:41 AM »
Te wife wants a “barn door” on her new closet. I was at Lowes and seen a box of hardware for one that had been beat to crap, they marked it down to $59 from $159. I was looking at pre-made “barn doors” and have decided people have lost their minds, up to $900 for a freaking barn door, I don’t have that in our new back door. My cousin finally managed to let my great grandfathers barn fall down, we are going to reclaim some of the siding to built her barn door from, if I can get enough all the new shelves in the office will be built from great grandfathers barn.

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