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Messages - hoardac

Pages: 1 ... 20 21 [22]
316
I wish I had made the pad it sits on bigger and small walls built in so it sits a little higher. I also wish I had run an extra electrical line to the stove when I buried the piping for it. A big light behind the stove so I can see in it better when I am loading it. I hope to build a shed over it someday, it kinda sucks in the rain and snow but the 1200 dollar heating bill more than makes up for a little weather misery. I can drain and fill my tank from inside the cellar. I am also building a storage tank this summer to hold another 600 gallons of water. That way I can have a weekend away without refilling the stove in the winter. I put in all sorts of extra valves and shut offs for any expansions I might want in the future I could think of. Another regret is not running a digital temp from the stove to the inside of the house. Have to go outside to see the status of the stove. Could probably think of a bunch more stuff but the last one for this post is I would rather have a plate heat exchanger than a side arm for my hot water but was told they work great when I was installing it.

317
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Generators/House hook up/ Boilers
« on: February 19, 2013, 09:45:58 PM »
I  have it set up similar to WoodMOJoe. I have a generator/dust collector/air-compressor shed outside my shop, after I shut off the main power supply and shut off all the breakers. I just plug the generator into the 40 amp feed coming from the shop breaker panel then turn on a few of  the most important ones. A transfer switch is the better option but cost wise a 40 dollar plug and cord combo cant be beat. Just have the neighbors call when the power is back on. I bought a slightly used coleman generator cleaned it up and works great and saved me 500 bucks. It can run my water pump, heating system pumps and freezer with no problems.

318
Plumbing / Re: radiant floor heat
« on: February 05, 2013, 11:50:41 PM »
I put in my underfloor radiant pipes 2 years ago now and all is working well. The cellar lines in the concrete went in 5 years ago. Used the book below for most of my info and ran one room to figure out the easiest way to snake it through the floor joists, made my own all in one hangers/spacers/joist supports and covered it all with foil foam foil. Then dry walled it all in as the finishing touch. I have 10 zones with room for expansion, super warm feet and a house where you would never know it is winter outside. Would be glad to answer any questions. I have had two plumbing and heating guys say I did a good job.




http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0766816370/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

319
Fire Wood / Re: starting oak
« on: January 26, 2013, 05:08:18 PM »
I use one of those weed burning torches attached to a 20 lb tank. It will start any wood in two minutes or less.

320
Fire Wood / Re: seasoned firewood
« on: January 26, 2013, 05:04:22 PM »
We used to have to test our wood regularly for moisture at the mill, very little drying goes on in the winter when it is below freezing. Even on the sunny side of the pile the drying does not go very deep.

321
I run mine @ 150f in the spring and fall and 180f winter seems to work real good. The biggest factor I have found is having seasoned firewood. If you are tapping into an existing boiler system then you want to use 180f or a little more all the time.

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