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31
Electronics / Re: Single thermostat two heat sources
« on: September 30, 2019, 04:01:23 AM »
Might be the best option. I ran two wires to the thermostat location when building, just have to fish it out and try and mount the additional one as close to the other one as possible. I was trying to avoid the clutter I the area, will have two thermostats and a HRV control too.
I guess I just have to figure out which wires control the fan on the current thermostat and hook the new ones up to the furnace the same way. All they will do is turn the fan on, that's it.
Any issues if for some reason the both try to turn the fan on at the same time ? I don't want to burn any7out in the furnace...
I guess I just have to figure out which wires control the fan on the current thermostat and hook the new ones up to the furnace the same way. All they will do is turn the fan on, that's it.
Any issues if for some reason the both try to turn the fan on at the same time ? I don't want to burn any7out in the furnace...
32
Electronics / Re: Single thermostat two heat sources
« on: September 28, 2019, 08:34:50 AM »
The LP furnace is only using W1.
Not familiar with aqua stat...
Finally heard back from Honeywell, they claim it can be done but want me to call, so will try that Monday am. The old thermostat I had in the last house had an emergency heat setting that I used when I had a heat pump and electric furnace. If I wanted to run the electric furnace instead of the heat pump I just switched it to emergency mode. Thought I could do a similar thing with the boiler?
Not familiar with aqua stat...
Finally heard back from Honeywell, they claim it can be done but want me to call, so will try that Monday am. The old thermostat I had in the last house had an emergency heat setting that I used when I had a heat pump and electric furnace. If I wanted to run the electric furnace instead of the heat pump I just switched it to emergency mode. Thought I could do a similar thing with the boiler?
33
Electronics / Single thermostat two heat sources
« on: September 27, 2019, 08:42:57 AM »
I have looked around to try and see what others have done but everyone seems to have a slightly different configuration than mine, here we go...
I have a Polar G2 OWB, its runs into the house and to the DHW and then to a water to air exchanger in the plenum of the furnace. I am leaving the system circulating all the time with no control vales or anything.
I have a two stage propane furnace that is currently my primary heat source. I have air conditioning but no heat pump. What I want to do seems simple but is proving to be somewhat difficult. I want to make the OWB my primary source of heat and the propane as my backup. I currently have a Honeywell RTH 8500D programmable thermostat, I contacted Honeywell and they said to just change the W wire to W2 and a call for heat would make the fan come on. After some looking, I figured that the fan would come on but if the second stage of the fan kicked on the propane would kick in. I only want the propane on in an emergency type situation.
What I want is for the fan to come on with a call for heat and if the temp drops 2 or 3 degrees below the set point have the propane turn on. So, if the temp is set to 72 degrees, the OWB keeps the temperature there. If for some reason, say pump failure or run out of wood, and the temperature drops to say 69 degrees, the propane will come on.
I can't seem to make this work with this thermostat. maybe I am missing something or perhaps I am in need of a different brand/type of thermostat.
Any suggestions ?
I have a Polar G2 OWB, its runs into the house and to the DHW and then to a water to air exchanger in the plenum of the furnace. I am leaving the system circulating all the time with no control vales or anything.
I have a two stage propane furnace that is currently my primary heat source. I have air conditioning but no heat pump. What I want to do seems simple but is proving to be somewhat difficult. I want to make the OWB my primary source of heat and the propane as my backup. I currently have a Honeywell RTH 8500D programmable thermostat, I contacted Honeywell and they said to just change the W wire to W2 and a call for heat would make the fan come on. After some looking, I figured that the fan would come on but if the second stage of the fan kicked on the propane would kick in. I only want the propane on in an emergency type situation.
What I want is for the fan to come on with a call for heat and if the temp drops 2 or 3 degrees below the set point have the propane turn on. So, if the temp is set to 72 degrees, the OWB keeps the temperature there. If for some reason, say pump failure or run out of wood, and the temperature drops to say 69 degrees, the propane will come on.
I can't seem to make this work with this thermostat. maybe I am missing something or perhaps I am in need of a different brand/type of thermostat.
Any suggestions ?
34
Polar Furnace / Re: Metal Plates in Firebox
« on: September 26, 2019, 03:50:39 PM »You are correct on the cap and the flat metal plates are used on the knockouts in the back of the boiler around your pipes, bend them at the perforations and slide them into the knockouts.
SlimJim...you mentioned earlier that I was correct about putting the wire in the chimney cap. I went to do it today and the tabs I mentioned are spot welded into place.
Have you ever seen the one that ships with the G2 ? Strange they don't put it in at the factory insted of leaving it as an option.
I want to put the wire in because I live in a very densely bushed area and I am sure some critter will get in there in the off season if I don't.
35
Polar Furnace / Re: Metal Plates in Firebox
« on: September 22, 2019, 06:29:36 AM »
Okay, I see what you mean now. What is their purpose ?
I assume if you left a cutout in the pad at the place where the pipes go in it would help keep animals from getting into the furnace...
I assume if you left a cutout in the pad at the place where the pipes go in it would help keep animals from getting into the furnace...
36
Polar Furnace / Re: Metal Plates in Firebox
« on: September 21, 2019, 04:00:06 PM »
I don't think those plates are for the knockouts ?
I have attached pictures of them..they look like they belong somewhere in the firebox ?
Have a look...
I have attached pictures of them..they look like they belong somewhere in the firebox ?
Have a look...
37
Polar Furnace / Metal Plates in Firebox
« on: September 21, 2019, 07:36:28 AM »
I have pretty much got my G2 ready to go. Removed the stuff that came inside the firebox, chimney extension, rain cap, ash shovel, etc. In the bottom where four pieces of 1/8" steel about 2 feet long and 3-4 inches wide shrink wrapped together. I assume they go somehow in the firebox but would like to make sure I put them where they need to be and in the correct orientation. Anyone have a picture or a description of how they should be placed / installed ?
Also, the rain cap came with, what I call chicken wire, separately in the box. I assume it goes in the rain cap to keep mice and birds out during the off season. I see tabs on the top of the rain cap, it looks like if I bent the tabs out the top would come off and I could put the wire in from there, anyone else had a cap like this ?
Also, the rain cap came with, what I call chicken wire, separately in the box. I assume it goes in the rain cap to keep mice and birds out during the off season. I see tabs on the top of the rain cap, it looks like if I bent the tabs out the top would come off and I could put the wire in from there, anyone else had a cap like this ?
38
Plumbing / Re: Brass or Galvanized At Boiler
« on: September 18, 2019, 07:11:04 AM »
Glad I asked...thanks for your feedback, much appreciated as always .
39
Plumbing / Brass or Galvanized At Boiler
« on: September 17, 2019, 04:49:19 PM »
Just wondering what everyone's thoughts are on the type of fittings to use.
I have brass or copper fittings everywhere else but I was thinking on using galvanized 1" barbed to 1" barbed to join the Logstor to the flex pipe at the boiler. These seem be be more ready available and I was wondering if it was advisable to use them.
Dave
I have brass or copper fittings everywhere else but I was thinking on using galvanized 1" barbed to 1" barbed to join the Logstor to the flex pipe at the boiler. These seem be be more ready available and I was wondering if it was advisable to use them.
Dave
40
That's for sure...especially if we try to bring something in from the US. The duty and brokerage fees are insane. I am real leary on buying anything from ebay because of it, I have bought before and a $100 item quickly turns into a $200 - $250 item real quickly. Although it depends a lot on the courier the seller uses, some are worse than others for their brokerage fees. If I can find it within the province for not a bad price, then I usually lean toward that..
42
The supplier I was going to get my pump from offered me a Wasser 25110s and said it was a 26-99 Chinese Knock-off for $275 CAD or $205 USD. That's about half of what he wanted for the 26-99.Not getting my pump there anymore, found a much better deal.
Don't know what type of pump that actually is but thought someone might know.
Don't know what type of pump that actually is but thought someone might know.
43
Plumbing / Re: Layout at back of furnace
« on: August 31, 2019, 08:43:37 AM »
Okay thanks. Sure wouldn't want that pipe to kink, just a little longer it is..
44
Plumbing / Re: Pump Size Confusion
« on: August 31, 2019, 08:41:10 AM »
Thanks for that suggestion. I have a small piece of pipe here that I can practice getting the "jacket off" on. Practice makes perfect 
My pump will be here next week. I think if I leave about 6 inches of insulation on above the pad that it should be okay...I hope.
My pump will be here next week. I think if I leave about 6 inches of insulation on above the pad that it should be okay...I hope.
45
Plumbing / Re: Layout at back of furnace
« on: August 30, 2019, 06:38:16 AM »
Thanks guys.
I see in the pics that copper is used from the manifold to the valve and what looks like galvanized elbow on the return. Using that method would make connections much cleaner and simpler.
I have some rubber hose that I want to run between the logstor and the pump. Would it be okay to put a loop in the rubber hose to allow for some movement or should I just leave a little slack ?
It turned out that the pipe markings work for the house but might be better changed for my garage run when I do that...
I see in the pics that copper is used from the manifold to the valve and what looks like galvanized elbow on the return. Using that method would make connections much cleaner and simpler.
I have some rubber hose that I want to run between the logstor and the pump. Would it be okay to put a loop in the rubber hose to allow for some movement or should I just leave a little slack ?
It turned out that the pipe markings work for the house but might be better changed for my garage run when I do that...