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[lugnut]

Getting frustrated now.  Last night I loaded up the firebox, opened the ash door just a wee bit for air flow.  Turned off the blower motor.  Went outside this morning and opened the wood box door and there was wood yet left opver, not all but enough.  And yes there was smoke coming out of the flue, but also when I opened the door, I was greeted with water lying on the door ledge and then I made its way out onto the concrete pad.

Now it was warm last night as it was too today...I filled the box and turned on the blower motor switch, opened the slide on the blower to about 1/4".  closed both the ash and firebox door all the way and now I'm getting smoke out of the door and chimney.  I ran a rod down the chimney and didn't feel any obstructions...so I can tell you, IF I were my neighbors I'd be pretty pissed. 
This thing has been doing nothing but smoking since I've hooked it up and began burning.

Yeah and that 75 cfm blower motor that Shaver "said" they would overnight on Wednesday...it's not here yet either.  Sure wish I knew someone up here that had a Shaver and could save my sanity.  "Tempted" to shut the damn furnace down and completely drain the system.....yes I know...I'm just going through a phase right now......

Okay, I suppose I'm done venting a bit.  Sorry to ruin anyone's evening.

Lugnut   

[willieG]

i know nothing of these stoves but i can tell  you ..excessive smoking is mostly caused by not enough air..if you crak the door open a bit and the fire starts to burn better and the smoking ceases i am guessing you need to provide more air from your blower.

when my home built blower comes on it is allowed to supply all it can deliver and when the set temp is reached it shuts the air supply completely (i have no gasket on my flapper so i assume it leaks just enough to keep the fire from going out)

[martyinmi]

How does the Shaver OWB regulate boiler temperature? Do they ship them without some type of aquastat? You do have a means to monitor water temperature, don't you? I don't think you need to worry about the condensate on the door ledge. That's likely excess moisture that is bound to form with the absence of a violent fire. If your boiler temperature is under 140* or so, you'll likely see it quite often.
   I have never seen a Shaver in operation before, only at a show, so I would have no idea how they are controlled. Don't give up on it. You'll figure it out, hopefully sooner than later Willie's right- you do need a hot fire if you want to reduce smoke.
   Just hang in there- with all the experienced dealers and builders out here, I have no doubt in my mind you'll be up and running in no time.

   Marty

[JBG]

Once you install your new blower and aquastat you should see a world of difference.
It's impossibe to regulate the furnace with that piece of junk thermostat it comes with.
For the life of me I can't figure out Shaver!
JBG

[lugnut]

Once you install your new blower and aquastat you should see a world of difference.
It's impossibe to regulate the furnace with that piece of junk thermostat it comes with.
For the life of me I can't figure out Shaver!
JBG

Willie and JBG....yeah you guys are right, I'm just frustrated as heck.  Marty,  these shavers are shipped with any kind of aqua-stat...just a store bought t-stat and that's it.  I think I'm going to go outside in a wee bit and open up the cover4 on the blower motor.

I'm going to start a new topic here in a bit...been looking at Nature's Comfort furnace and got some ideas off their site...sure wish I would have looked into them....well that could be said for every darn furnace outside of the Shaver, however, I did learn a few things when I went on the Shaver website...they have a page for the Arkansas BBB.  You shaver owners should take a look at that sometime.

I still plan on composing a letter this weekend and sending it to Mr. shaver.  Anyway, stand by for my new topics and questions...really only six questions.

Lugnut

[powerstroke]

I can tell you....you need to put that damper door actuator on there.  It will solve 100% of your problems!  It isnt the aquastat.  I used the factory one all last year and it worked just fine.  I set it at just a tick under 150 degrees.  Really the only reason I put the Ranco on it this year was for a temp reading and to be able to adjust the temperature swing.  Gettin that thing to "roar" with the blower pushing all that air into the box will make that thing shoot right up to temp in no time.  And then it will just idle.  It is a different animal with that blower mod!  Just get it on there asap!!!!!!!!

[lugnut]

I can tell you....you need to put that damper door actuator on there.  It will solve 100% of your problems!  It isnt the aquastat.  I used the factory one all last year and it worked just fine.  I set it at just a tick under 150 degrees.  Really the only reason I put the Ranco on it this year was for a temp reading and to be able to adjust the temperature swing.  Gettin that thing to "roar" with the blower pushing all that air into the box will make that thing shoot right up to temp in no time.  And then it will just idle.  It is a different animal with that blower mod!  Just get it on there asap!!!!!!!!

Yes sir...I most certainly will....as soon as Shaver figures out what "overnight" shipping means.  That would be my same reason for installing the Ranco...so that I can read what the water temp is and to be able to set the on/off for the blower....well that and the bragging rights fact.  JUST KIDDING!!!

So I suppose then that I should rule out running over it with my Ford SCAB?   

Lugnut

[Bull]

Don't run over it, you may hurt your truck LOL

[Scott7m]

Lug nut buddy I hope you get it figured out.  I hope you don't get all of this stuff fixed and then it starts leaking like a siv !!  There have been a lot of them to leak, some customers got replacements and they leaked to.

[jimr]

if i had it to do all over again i would still get the same unit ,Shaver165.  after i did the modifications this unit works great. it takes care of heating the house 72*, garage 70*,hot tub 104* & hot water130*-135*, 24/7. my longest run is 165ft. one direction and go through about 13-14 cords a year. i don't think that is a lot of wood considering what is heated
in my area i see Central boiler and Hardy and they don't heat any better then the Shaver, they just cost more.
this will be my 2nd year of service and you do need to do all the modifications that are known to help and forget about rope for a door seal, silicone works just fine,just don't crush it to much, and if the door still leaks it needs more silicone in those spots.

[Scott7m]

14 cords a year    Where are you located.  That's like 35-40 pick up loads of wood.  Your hot tub shouldn't take much wood really.  As far as the house goes I don't have a shop on mine but keep the 22-2300 sqft home about 74-75 degrees with 4-6 baths/showers per day and I burned like 8-9 pick up loads. Probably 3 1/2 cords

[willieG]

if i had it to do all over again i would still get the same unit ,Shaver165.  after i did the modifications this unit works great. it takes care of heating the house 72*, garage 70*,hot tub 104* & hot water130*-135*, 24/7. my longest run is 165ft. one direction and go through about 13-14 cords a year. i don't think that is a lot of wood considering what is heated
in my area i see Central boiler and Hardy and they don't heat any better then the Shaver, they just cost more.
this will be my 2nd year of service and you do need to do all the modifications that are known to help and forget about rope for a door seal, silicone works just fine,just don't crush it to much, and if the door still leaks it needs more silicone in those spots.

i think you are doing ok with those figures

[jimr]

if i had it to do all over again i would still get the same unit ,Shaver165.  after i did the modifications this unit works great. it takes care of heating the house 72*, garage 70*,hot tub 104* & hot water130*-135*, 24/7. my longest run is 165ft. one direction and go through about 13-14 cords a year. i don't think that is a lot of wood considering what is heated
in my area i see Central boiler and Hardy and they don't heat any better then the Shaver, they just cost more.
this will be my 2nd year of service and you do need to do all the modifications that are known to help and forget about rope for a door seal, silicone works just fine,just don't crush it to much, and if the door still leaks it needs more silicone in those spots.

i think you are doing ok with those figures

i think so to,,,, eastern ohio

[martyinmi]

jimr-
Your wood usage is right in line, or even less than my buddy's is with his CB 6048. I think he'll go through close to 16 cords. I'm getting to the point where I can interpret what people are trying to say when they post based on their previous posts. Scott sells boilers that are  ahead of where yours may be where efficiencies are concerned. I don't think he meant yours is a "wood hawg", he just meant that compared to the more efficient burn chamber designs that are offered today, yours uses much more wood. Your design, from what I gather, is a tried and true one that can and will burn anything you throw into it. That aspect is probably priceless to a lot of folks. I know that my boiler will not efficiently burn what yours will. My heat transfer tubes will slowly shrink as creosote builds up, and gasification will take much longer to achieve.
   I only know of one guy who uses a Shaver and he loves it. In fact, when his old one wore out, he bought another one. He will be a Shaver customer for life.
   
   Marty

[beeman]

i liked there boiler so used tere desine have been real happy so far some stuff to still work out but from the stove i hade the last 4 years this is great yes  i am one of if it will burn and will fit through the door mine even looks like a shaver ha ha ha ha i love it       lugnut dont give up we are all here to help gary