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[paperman]

The chips are 4MM thick and approx. 1 1/2" wide.  We have "oversize" rejects that are anything bigger than 2" and undersize at 3/4".  Also our chipper has a metal detector that can find a nail in a 20" log.  It stops the belt and reject the 3-4 logs behind this one as well as the suspect log.  Cheap to toss $10 in pulpwood than $1800 in chipper knives.  It all equals free wood to the employees. 

Did you think of doing a castable refractory opposed to bricks?  You can mold it to what ever you want.  Kind of a clay like consistancy until its fired. 

[tulenutn2o]

Hey Jackel, last year when tree man dumped here, he also left a small pile of chippings. Since I had to clean up any way, I got in the habit of throwing a scoop or 2 on top of logs when I burnt. Don't know if it helped or hindered, but got rid of chips and fire was hot.

[jackel440]

The chips are 4MM thick and approx. 1 1/2" wide.  We have "oversize" rejects that are anything bigger than 2" and undersize at 3/4".  Also our chipper has a metal detector that can find a nail in a 20" log.  It stops the belt and reject the 3-4 logs behind this one as well as the suspect log.  Cheap to toss $10 in pulpwood than $1800 in chipper knives.  It all equals free wood to the employees. 

Did you think of doing a castable refractory opposed to bricks?  You can mold it to what ever you want.  Kind of a clay like consistancy until its fired.

Sounds like the wood chips would be a good deal since theyre free!
If you got a place to store it I would take it.Even if you had to mix it with logs to get a longer burn ,but I bet it would work great.
I don't know if doing castable is worth the hassle.I passed on using it for the simple reason that what if?I needed to repair the brick in the middle of winter.I can use brick to fix a fracture.But if I had some special one off piece that would mean some down time.which I couldn't afford to deal with.

[jackel440]

Hey Jackel, last year when tree man dumped here, he also left a small pile of chippings. Since I had to clean up any way, I got in the habit of throwing a scoop or 2 on top of logs when I burnt. Don't know if it helped or hindered, but got rid of chips and fire was hot.

I would like to scoop up my debri from cutting and splitting and put in a bin of some sort to later use in the boiler.No point in letting it go to waste.

[paperman]

Why is it the gas chambers are on the bottom?  Seems you are fighting the air and heat wanting to rise.  Must be a real reason as that seems to be the way it is done by most. 

[jackel440]

Why is it the gas chambers are on the bottom?  Seems you are fighting the air and heat wanting to rise.  Must be a real reason as that seems to be the way it is done by most.

updraft gasification is alot more involved and not practical for our applications.Much simpler to build a down draft unit.

[jackel440]

Well A little update for this new burning season.Last year I had an exstension cord ran out the door and around to the back of the shop to power the gasifier.Today i got an out side recepticle mounted and hooked up.Plugged the burner in ,and she came right to life.
I drained all the 440 gallons of water out of her.Only got a little nasty sediment when it first started draining.all the rest came out nice and clear.
Now when I placed the unit last year it was cold and frozen out.I leveled it and was good to go.Well by athis spring and summer she had settled and my blocke were sinking.So I jacked her up and put some stone down and releveled it.
I am getting ready to hook up the shop feeder line up so there is heat in there this year.I am going to make a stainless steel plate to bring it through the wall.
The boiler is all cleaned out and pretty much ready to go.Should be filling it back up with water on wednesday.

[paperman]

Did you add any lay-up chemicals to the waterside?  I have the plates all drawn up and am waiting on the shop to brake them.  I have an old 1000 gallon fuel oil tank.  It was removed from service and did not leak.  Thinking of using that for the outer tank.  I kind of torn, reuse a tank that is water tight and already made.  But the issue is what if it has a few pin holes in the making that I cant find and they open up later.  Now everything is built around a tank that is no good.  Im thinking of just spending the coin and building a real tank.   

[jackel440]

No I never installed the water treatment that i bought when i finnished building my stove.I knew i would be draining the stove to purge any other debri from building it that had setteled to the bottom.

Paperman, I would be planning to use that 1000 gallon tank to make hot water storage.Thats what I plan to do eventually is to have about 2K gallons of hot water super insulated in tanks to heat with.

[peacmar]

Well, I must say... As a very experienced fabricator, welder, machinists and everything of the sort. Well done sir! I've followed this build in my free time since almost the first post and am quite amazed at the quality and effort of your build. I can appreciate your efforts as I know what went into this. I have some questions if that would be ok?

[jackel440]

Well, I must say... As a very experienced fabricator, welder, machinists and everything of the sort. Well done sir! I've followed this build in my free time since almost the first post and am quite amazed at the quality and effort of your build. I can appreciate your efforts as I know what went into this. I have some questions if that would be ok?

thanks for the compliments. I do love this kind of work.I enjoy doing it everyday at work.can be tough  getting the same results at home that you do in a Factory with all the right equipment.
Send me questions if you have them.I would be glad to answer them if I can.

[peacmar]

I very well understand the frustrations that can be had by trying to achieve ones quality and efficiency at work in the shop at home. It's nice to have every tool needed at your fingertips at the job, but wish you owned them also. I have a few about your design concepts, as I am planning my second boiler build. And a few ideas on the controller I would like to compare thoughts with you. But first ill start with asking if you have any efficiency calculations yet? I would be happy to help in that department so everyone here can use the methods when designing their own burner. I just have to look back through and try to find all the necessary info. Fan cfm, fire tube size, secondary burn chamber dimensions. You have the temps in your video I recall that. The stack temp is the only one I can't remember seeing...

[jackel440]

I very well understand the frustrations that can be had by trying to achieve ones quality and efficiency at work in the shop at home. It's nice to have every tool needed at your fingertips at the job, but wish you owned them also. I have a few about your design concepts, as I am planning my second boiler build. And a few ideas on the controller I would like to compare thoughts with you. But first ill start with asking if you have any efficiency calculations yet? I would be happy to help in that department so everyone here can use the methods when designing their own burner. I just have to look back through and try to find all the necessary info. Fan cfm, fire tube size, secondary burn chamber dimensions. You have the temps in your video I recall that. The stack temp is the only one I can't remember seeing...

Yeah I do have most of what I need in my own shop.Just need to get a shear,leaf brake,slip rolls.
No I dont have any efficiency calculations on it yet.I know it does seem to sip the wood from what I experianced last year.
If I remember correctly my fan is 500 cfm.The heat exchanger tubes coming from the refractory chamber are 3" diameter.There are six of them.I believe they are approximatly 3' long if I remmeber correctly.The dimensions are probably in a post somewhere back.
I will have to go back and measure the tunnel size.I think each tunnel is about 4.5" tall maybe approximately 7" wide now this is off the top of my head.
I never did get an exhaust stack temp last year.I started to several times but just never did.
I am working 12 to 16 hours the next few days so I will try to re check those dimensions sometime.

I  just cut my feeder line to my house in half ,and I am in the process of running the lines to the shop .Then I have to rehook the house back up.I made a S.S. wall mount to run the feeder lines into the the wall of my shop.Plus it also has a 1/2" pipe nipple welded through it to allow the ability to have an air line on the back of the shop.I will have to get pics off my cell phone and post them.

[peacmar]

I just got done working those kinds of hours myself the last two months straight. Those are some looooooonnnngggg days.

I studied past posts and it looks like your using standard splits for the fire brick. So I'm guessing that your secondary chamber dimensions are about 18" wide and 12.75" tall? Not including the fire brick, which I should have been more clear on, my apologies for that. I meant metal surfaces only.

[jackel440]

Yeah I believe your just about correct on dimensions.
Man these long hours are killer on a guy.Looks like it is going to be a long weekend for me.
Yes they are 1x4x9 hard brick if I remember correctly.
Maybe tomorrow i can check the dimensions after work.