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Topics - juddspaintballs

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31
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Picking up my Heatmor tomorrow
« on: March 30, 2010, 11:46:52 AM »
 ;D

I took off work, using my last personal day (which was my "raise" from last year) so I didn't lose any leave hours.  I'll be driving 3 hours to load it on a trailer and bring it home.

32
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / wiring
« on: March 07, 2010, 08:47:59 PM »
I have no idea how to hook up the electrical for my OWB.  I know I need a 2nd thermostat and that's about it.  My transformer on my oil burner is 40A.  I'll have one zone controlled by a taco ball zone valve and a circulator pump always running.  I have no idea what I need to buy!

33
Plumbing / plumbing my owb
« on: February 20, 2010, 06:40:26 PM »
I posted this same thing on Hearth.com.  Thanks for being patient with me so far on this forum.  Looking for more/other insight:

I’m putting in an outdoor wood boiler to heat my home and garage, as well as domestic water.  I’ll be using a Heatmor 200css with a domestic coil on it rather than a sidearm or flat plate heat exchanger for the water.  I plan to place the unit approximately 100’ from my house and about 50’ from my single car garage.

1) What size PEX should I use?
1” PEX would be great because I anticipate needing at least 200’ of tubing to go from the boiler to the house and back.  I’ll be self-insulating and water sealing my own lines.  Will 1” PEX be enough to heat just my home (drafty 1660 sq ft forced air) or do I need to step up to 1.25” PEX?  100’ or so in one direction.  It’s far easier to find fittings for 1” than it is 1.25”.  The clamp tool I’m seeing only does up to 1”.

2)  3/4” PEX for the domestic coil?
It’s separate from the lines dedicated to heating the home.  Cold well water to the furnace coil, hot domestic water back to the house.  Is 3/4” going to be plenty for just that?  100’ or so in one direction as well.

3)  Garage heat PEX size?
Only 50’ away from the boiler.  Totally uninsulated small garage, single car sized.  I’m going to put a water/air exchanger with a fan behind it hanging from the ceiling.  I’m not looking to keep the place 75 degrees, but 50-60 degrees would be nice.  I was thinking maybe 3/4” PEX again?

4)  Splitting the lines?
The house and garage aren’t very close to each other.  Would it make the most sense to Tee the output directly at the furnace so one side goes to the house for heat and the other goes to the garage for heat?  Then, bring the two loops back together with a Tee right at the inlet side of the furnace again?  Control valves on everything.  Separate pumps for each loop?  The domestic coil is totally separate and pumped via my well pump/house water pressure.

5)  Manifold?
Right now all I have in the house is a forced air setup.  All I need is a water/air heat exchanger in my plenum as far as I know.  My tile kitchen floor is ventless, however, and my feet are quite cold.  It would be quite difficult to add a vent to the kitchen near the floor, and equally difficult to add radiant heat by design of the house.  I am thinking about adding baseboard heat along the bottom of the cabinets from the hot water.  Should I build a small manifold in the house to split the water/air exchanger and the baseboard in the kitchen or could I just incorporate the loop back to the boiler into the baseboard heat?  I don’t need to make it a separate zone, just warm up the kitchen a little.

6)  Sharkbite or stainless steel clamps?
Sharkbites look really simple to use and are cheaper than buying the clamp tool.  The clamps shouldn’t fail over time because they don’t have any o-rings.  Which would you recommend?  I plan on purchasing as much as possible from pexsupply.com




What I've found is that I haven't found any O2 barrier 1 1/4" PEX or any fittings that fit it if I ever find it.  Can someone point me in the right direction?

34
Heatmor / domestic hot water coil
« on: February 14, 2010, 05:45:40 PM »
If I get a Heatmor 200CSS without a domestic hot water coil installed, how easy would it be to install one myself?  The coil seems like a much better idea than a sidearm heat exchanger with the only downside being an extra two lines of 3/4" pex (only the hot side needs insulated though).  A local Heatmor dealer today told me the coil will give me basically unlimited hot water and be almost identical in price to a sidearm exhanger. 

35
Plumbing / More water line discussion
« on: February 11, 2010, 05:15:10 PM »
Been reading lots of posts on pipe and such.  Seems the general consensus seems to be Thermopex or Logstor.  At $14/ft, I feel like it could be assembled as well for less $$.  From what I've been reading, the 4" drain pipe with 3 layers of foil insulation wrapped around two lines seems inadequate at best. 

So I've been thinking of using 4" or 6" drain pipe with my pex lines run inside of it.  I would encase the pex lines with Thermacel insulation (http://www.pexsupply.com/Nomaco-K-Flex-118C-6-Thermacel-Insulation-for-1-Pipe-1-1-8-x-1-2-5652000-p).  Alternatively, I could use two runs of 2.5" PVC with the pex insulated with that same product inside of it.  Seems to me that with this type of insulation, it would block water from touching the pex (if I sealed the joints with glue) preventing heat loss if the drian pipe got punctured.  Your thoughts? 

Also, for pex, does it need the oxygen barrier or not?

36
I'm trying to decide on a location for an OWB.  I don't want to spend too much on underground piping if I don't have to, especially since I want to heat my detached garage.  I was thinking of putting the furnace about 10' off of the back of the house if that isn't a problem.  Any thoughts?

37
Plumbing / running lines into the basement
« on: February 07, 2010, 08:17:03 PM »
I would like to know the best way to get the lines to/from the OWB into my basement.  I'll be doing a DHW and forced air heat installation, and possibly heating a small detached garage too.  The way my house it built, it has a stone foundation from quartz rocks.  The house is about 135 years old.  I have an addition built onto the back of my house that only has a crawl space.  I want to put the OWB behind my house.  If I go straight to the house, I have to go under the crawlspace.  If I go toward the right side of the house, I'll run into my septic system.  If I go left, I'll have to be careful digging until I find my well lines and then cross over/under the well lines, which is no big deal.  However, if I go left, the left side of my house is also a crawlspace for about 15' into the house so I'd either have to go through that crawlspace or around to the front of the house. 

My thought was what I consider to be the easiest solution but I wasn't sure if it would work well.  I could run straight to the house in a trench, and then breech the addition's foundation (block) , dig inside the crawlspace until I get down to the hole in the foundation, and then run the lines to the "surface" inside the crawlspace.  The best part about this plan would be that I don't have to breech the basement wall as well, since the addition's crawlspace attaches to a bricked over window in the basement.  I was already planning on knocking out that bricked over window so I could add a furnace vent in that room. 

Would it be perfectly acceptable to run the OWB water lines underground until I make it into the crawlspace, and then bring them to the surface and into the basement through that window?  It was my understanding that the water lines are already insulated so being on the surface inside an unconditioned crawlspace shouldn't matter.  Any thoughts?

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