Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Electronics => Topic started by: Bluegrass Wood Burner on December 22, 2016, 03:33:31 PM
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What can I do to get my blower speed to blow as hard as it does when the central air is on. I'm only using the green wire on my thermostat. My ducts are in the ceiling and my ceiling is 11 ft causing a lot of heat to stay up high away from floor. If the duct was putting out more air it would blow it down to floor. When the central heat pump is running you can hear the air coming out and feel it. Using boiler thermostat it's much slower.
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Do you have a variable speed blower on a heat pump or is it a gas or oil furnace with air on it? Two t-stats or one? This is a good question and it can be done but I'd like to hear others comments.
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Yes it is a variable speed blower. I use 2 thermostats 1 for heat pump and the other for the boiler.
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Okay, when the term variable speed is used are we referring to an infinitely variable speed blower or a three speed?
If its a three speed, get a 1 into 2 spade adapter, and a short jumper, then the high speed wire on the blower can be plugged into both the heat and cool terminal on the control board.
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Sounds to me like he has a DC variable. But sometimes they still have double bank speed increments at the blower. Do you have a single or dual compressor in your outside unit? If dual the outside unit can send the signal back to the board when the second compressor cuts in and ramps the blower. But you may have only one compressor and the board decides the speed.
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Do you guys feel that will be a help to me? You could feel the air being pushed down. Would the extra air flow cool the coils too fast? Would it be a way to keep our house warmer with same amount of firewood use. If there not a benefit I will leave it like it is. When the ac is on the air speed changes up and down when it's calling for cool air. It blows much harder when heat pump kicks on calling for heat than it does if the boiler kicks on the fans.
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Anytime you draw more heat you use more wood. Can you keep your house warm with the fan on low speed? If you can, just leave it. But if you need more heat there is a way to speed up your fan. But then you get more heat transfer and you use more wood. The objective is to get your house warm. Right now you are using manual fan on port speed to move air, so whatever your air handler is set for on manual fan on that's what air flow you are getting.Variable speed units generally have dip switches to control air flow and that can be changed however manual fan on port can generally be only turned op to 60% max. So you need to power the board to thinking something else is on when the wood boiler is on when really it isn't. How to do that depends how your system is set up.
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My boiler keeps my house warm. However with 11 ft ceilings in every room it's 6-7 degrees warmer up next to ceiling than at eye level where the thermostat is. I'd like to figure out how to push that air on down without a bunch of ceiling fans. My boiler is capable of heating 8000 sq ft, my house is 5400 sq ft, so the boiler is not struggling at all. All my duct work is in attic. My house sits on a solid concrete slab about 4 ft thick so no crawl space for ducts under floor. I don't mind the overhead registers, just wish it would blow a little harder than what it us. There's a big difference in when the heat pump kicks on and when the boiler heat kicks on in the speed of the moving air. You may be right in that I just need to leave well enough along. Thanks for your help. I was hoping some one might of had exact same situation and what thier solution is.
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Ceiling fan? But if you want to speed it up we will try to walk you through it , or shoot me a pm with a phone # and I'll explain how to do it. But we will need info from in your air handler, how it is set up.
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The change you have for me would be at the thermostat or in my air handler? I'm just afraid that even with your expertise I might mess something up. My son in laws father is an hvac man and he would be better to let you walk him thru it. Will these changes affect the heat pump with air conditioning and backup as far as how it works? If you think it's simple enough I'm willing to try
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Hey shepherd boy, this may sound a little dumb but what is pm? You said shoot you a pm.😆
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I figured out as answer to last questionabout PM. You should have gotten one by now from me? The older I get the funnier I get on things like this. That's what my wife kids and grand kids tell me.
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Just an update here. Bluegrass has a Trane variable speed air handler. Infinitely variable that is. He is running a standard Trane stat (nothing fancy) and has a Honeywell 5000 as a second t-stat for the boiler. He has it turning on the blower using the g terminal. This uses the manual fan on route to turn on the blower. Manual fan on will only give a max of about 60% air flow. How can he get 100% and still leave his existing stat intact to back up the boiler? He is to send me a pic of the circuit board how it is wired now but if someone is familiar with this unit you may want to give your advise.
Bluegrass if you read this your father in law is a heating and air man I would hire him. He owes you a favor anyway for giving his son a good wife. The change will be in the airhandler.
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Just an update here. Bluegrass has a Trane variable speed air handler. Infinitely variable that is. He is running a standard Trane stat (nothing fancy) and has a Honeywell 5000 as a second t-stat for the boiler. He has it turning on the blower using the g terminal. This uses the manual fan on route to turn on the blower. Manual fan on will only give a max of about 60% air flow. How can he get 100% and still leave his existing stat intact to back up the boiler? He is to send me a pic of the circuit board how it is wired now but if someone is familiar with this unit you may want to give your advise.
Bluegrass if you read this your father in law is a heating and air man I would hire him. He owes you a favor anyway for giving his son a good wife. The change will be in the airhandler.
First thing that comes to mind, cheap and simple, use the second thermostat to activate the Y wire, use a aqua stat to open the signal to the compressor or just turn the breaker off to it, on call for heat Y wire is activated which I would think should run the fan on high speed, with the aqua stat the compressor won’t start.
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I think you are on track. You need to energize the y and it will go to high. Aqua stat on the compressor would give backup when temp drops on boiler. However some of these units are programed so you need both the G and the Y energized at the same time for them the fan to come on and then go to high. You need to be careful not to link the G to the Y with the same wire or the original stat will turn on the compressor any time it energizes the G even in the manual fan on situation.
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Need to know if the AC needs both the Y and G wire, there is a way around that as well with the use of an aqua stat and a 24 volt fan relay or two.
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Mlappin that is how I have mine set up but I only use one T-stat. My surface sensing aqua stat opens the circuit to my Geothermal compressor when the water temp is above 130. I have a variable speed ECM motor on my high efficiency LP furnace which is my air handler for my Geothermal and second backup heat source as well. Works very well.
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I have not got a pic from Bluegrass of the circuit board but I'll assume that this is a single compressor system.If duel compressor there is a Y2 terminal to deal with. In the south I have seen installers struggle with these heat pump systems and would like this discussed. Here is how I would do it: Use a 90-340 relay. Let the second stat power the relay and power terminal #3and #6. terminal #4 put a green wire jumper to G on board. original green wire goes to #5 which creates a normal closed circuit. When it trips will power the G. #1 terminal gets a jumper to the Y on board. Original stat yellow and yellow from compressor go to #2 terminal.This is also the normally closed circuit. When the second T- stat it powers G and Y fan goes to 100%. Should the original want to back up the wood stat it can at any time as the yellow from the original stat is still connected to the compressor yellow. The fan is already on high. This hookup only takes a 90-340 relay.
We have done a bunch of these and they seem to work good, but there may be something better.
If you are using the Y2 or YO on the board a Different setup is needed.
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I will get my son in laws father to tackle this when he is over this way. All this is way above my head. I sure appreciate all your help on this. I'll update when we do it.