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1

Natures Comfort / 2013 NCB-250 Convert to Coal

« on: January 15, 2018, 10:54:27 AM »

Wow, looks like NC board isn't very active anymore. Was hoping to get some info from the collective wisdom here.

I own a 2013 NCB250 1/4" steel version and am wanting to convert to running coal as looks like I have a cheap source from a coal mine just 10 miles away.

1) Is this even possible or is this older stove I have a "wood only" version of the stove and coal is not recommended.

2) Seems I need to get a shaker grate setup and from what I'm finding from reading online, the retro-kit for the NCB250 from NC doesn't work well. Can I just buy the NCB250-Coal model grates or do they not fit my openings on my older stove?

3) I'd understand there is a steep learning curve and lots of trial/error moving to coal but I'd like to setup so I can burn wood or coal by leaving the shaker grates in semi-permanently and knowing I'd have to adjust set points and differentials depending on my fuel source. So, anyone doing this with their NCB-250, switching back and forth or do I need to dedicate it and the setup to coal only or wood only?

Thanks much.

2

Plumbing / Backup indoor boiler connection location

« on: December 07, 2016, 07:53:33 AM »

So I'm finally getting around to adding a backup indoor boiler which will probably be used during shoulder season and when on vacation.

I'm attaching an image from the installation instructions that I've modified. The picture is exactly how my system is installed today with the exception of the indoor boiler circled in red. The indoor boiler is a high efficiency condensing boiler with its own pump and calls for specific pipe sizes and hydraulic separation of the boiler loop through closely spaced tees.

I'm fine with all that but want to put the boiler loop into the system after the plate exchanger and before the pressure tank. My reasoning is I don't want this boiler to kick on due to low return temps from zones when the first come on. Putting it after the exchanger means the zone return water will be brought up significantly before hitting the indoor boiler.

I've been told however that this is not an appropriate installation location since it would be "pumping against the pressure tank" and should be introduced after the air separator/pressure tank connection. That would require quite a bit of copper rework so was wondering if anyone else had an semi-professional opinion on the matter.

Easiest place to install it is where it is originally shown on the drawing however I don't think this will work as sometimes my return water from the zones is at 90-100* for a couple of minutes before warming up. This I feel would fire the backup boiler unnecessarily.

3

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / "Time to load" indicator

« on: February 04, 2015, 07:23:46 PM »

So I'm looking for ideas on how to provide a visual alert in my house to indicate that the wood boiler is in need of loading. I run a 175-185 aquastat differential and my line of thinking is something along these lines.

1. A digital read-out of the stove water temp
2. An LED light tree that would
2a. Light up green indicating the water temp is within the 175-185 range (all is good)
2b. Light up yellow indicating water temp is between 155-175 (fuel is needed)
2c. Light up red indicating water temp is below 155 and stove is in danger of sweating (fuel is needed now)

I'd like to be able to adjust these ranges like I can adjust my aquastat.

Anyone got any ideas, done something similar, or have some type of indicator system alerting to the stove needing wood?

Thanks much, great info on this site.