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1
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Old pump for backup
« on: August 26, 2015, 02:09:59 PM »
I think you would want to clean out as much rust and junk from the pump and its volute as possible, and make sure the impellar spins freely. Then maybe give all the exposed metal parts a good coating oil or other type of lubricant to prevent rust from forming; but becare of the plastic impellar -> don't think they are very fond of oils and what not.
2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Soft vs Hard wood - Worth the switch
« on: August 19, 2015, 02:10:21 PM »hey if its free chuck it in .its sure to make some heat...unless its a tire
**Which by the way is not recommended in any stove, fireplace or firepit, but who sees the thick black smoke after dark
3
Central Boiler / Re: Edge
« on: August 06, 2015, 08:44:50 AM »
OK after a quick look, at the link; I wonder why people would buy the 550 (an extra $1500, for 8k btu/hr)
I also do not 100% like the fact that they only have 1 set of 1.25" ports on the unit. There would be a lot of fittings, check valves and flow issues I have to worry about if more than one structure is being heated
I also do not 100% like the fact that they only have 1 set of 1.25" ports on the unit. There would be a lot of fittings, check valves and flow issues I have to worry about if more than one structure is being heated
4
Heatmor / Re: NEW HEATMOR 400 plumbing question
« on: August 03, 2015, 06:38:04 AM »I keep thinking about radiant, maybe a few rooms at a time, would love it upstairs but keep coming back to almost needing a separate pressurized system to get the water upstairs. Suppose that wouldn’t be horribly complicated, a flat plate, a small reservoir and a expansion tank....you forgot about the pump
, there might be bit of controls work to do but nothing too complicated
5
Heatmor / Re: NEW HEATMOR 400 plumbing question
« on: July 31, 2015, 01:37:52 PM »Do you mean like this manifold we started the other day
Who cares about copper, look at all the $$$ in pumps you have hanging on the wall
. I heat 4000sf of inslab and only have 1 pump, so by my count you have a WICKED huge house, or are doing SNOWMELT 
6
Heatmor / Re: pex/pumps sizes
« on: July 27, 2015, 09:57:49 AM »
Here is my $.02, since I run Central Boiler eClassic 2400
B&G NRF-36, will far and a away be enough pump, if not look at what you head pressure is.
You did not say how far away house and shop are?
Only real difference I have seen (1.25"Pex - 100' run to house & 1"Pex - 75' run to detached garage) is the difference in fittings. I run all inslab and pump between OWB and FPHE, never pump faster than about 8GPM - Cause I used Alpha that teel me the GPM
B&G NRF-36, will far and a away be enough pump, if not look at what you head pressure is.
You did not say how far away house and shop are? Only real difference I have seen (1.25"Pex - 100' run to house & 1"Pex - 75' run to detached garage) is the difference in fittings. I run all inslab and pump between OWB and FPHE, never pump faster than about 8GPM - Cause I used Alpha that teel me the GPM
7
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Fire safety
« on: June 29, 2015, 12:11:27 PM »- My little 3 sided wind break houses the following:
- about 1/2 cord of firewood (to be burned into OWB, within a week)
- outdoor electrical panel to split power from transformer to both house and shop
- back up generator
- and a few random hand/yard tools
8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Fire safety
« on: June 24, 2015, 11:43:58 AM »
This is how to stay out og the weather and still have a roof over your head, by the way the stove was eventually turned 90* to the left and actually installed, picture is a bit dated, but the best angle I had.
Wall opposite open face has a pass-thru cut out so I can load approximately 1/2 pulp wood cord under the roof
http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=446
Wall opposite open face has a pass-thru cut out so I can load approximately 1/2 pulp wood cord under the roof
http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=446
9
Central Boiler / Re: E 1450 cement slab
« on: June 16, 2015, 06:10:09 AM »
WillieG, on second thought you might be right, rebar would be better for an outdoor slab.
WHAT WAS I THINKING
WHAT WAS I THINKING
10
Central Boiler / Re: Draining my Central Boiler?
« on: June 15, 2015, 07:06:26 AM »
I personally dont like to flush OWBs, unless you totally get your chemicals/treatments out of whack.
I also come from previous experience of the Closed loop world, and a few Glycol-systems, where once a system was up and running you tried to keep it closed up as much as possible. You did not want to add fressh water because of the oxygen (trapped in the water) that you were adding to the system.
I also come from previous experience of the Closed loop world, and a few Glycol-systems, where once a system was up and running you tried to keep it closed up as much as possible. You did not want to add fressh water because of the oxygen (trapped in the water) that you were adding to the system.
11
Central Boiler / Re: E 1450 cement slab
« on: June 15, 2015, 06:59:53 AM »
Around here, in Southern MN, it seems as thou everyone is going fiber-filled (fiberglass) on their residential concrete and not puting rebar/wire in. My understanding is thats its cheaper to add the fiber into the cement truck, then all the work of the rebar.
..plus, as long as you do not plan on buffing the concrete you will be OK. If you buff it tends to make little fuzzies on your floor where you try to buff the fiberglas strands
..plus, as long as you do not plan on buffing the concrete you will be OK. If you buff it tends to make little fuzzies on your floor where you try to buff the fiberglas strands
12
Fire Wood / Re: Slab Wood from a sawmill
« on: May 28, 2015, 06:45:27 AM »
My dad has a sawmill of his own (WM LT40-Manual) he has a fair amount of slabs to burn. He mostly uses them during the day, when loads are light or during the summer for heating DHW.
He likes to use the bigger pieces and blocks for overnight. He does not go any extended burn times, as he checks the stove 2 or 3 times a day in the winter, depending on what the weather looks like. He is firing a CB eClassic 2300 or 2400 (cant remember exactly), and heating 7000sf over 2 building (mostly in slab, with some aluminum panels) BTW he has burned about 37 cords in the last 2 years, yes almost 4 semis worht of wood; but ma is happy so he is happy.
He likes to use the bigger pieces and blocks for overnight. He does not go any extended burn times, as he checks the stove 2 or 3 times a day in the winter, depending on what the weather looks like. He is firing a CB eClassic 2300 or 2400 (cant remember exactly), and heating 7000sf over 2 building (mostly in slab, with some aluminum panels) BTW he has burned about 37 cords in the last 2 years, yes almost 4 semis worht of wood; but ma is happy so he is happy.
13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: cardboard burn with no water?
« on: May 27, 2015, 06:43:27 AM »Why would leaving the old water in all summer be better than new all summer?
...because all the crud and minerals in the "old/dead" water have already been some what depleted. If you put fresh water in, even with inhibitors, that is a lot of highly oxygenated water you have, just sitting there and will have to deal with and we all know that when that combination just sits it will cause rust.
14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: cardboard burn with no water?
« on: May 26, 2015, 06:36:29 AM »
I would not dump water until fall, you do not want fresh water (even with inhibitors) sitting in a OWB all summer. IMO
At least if you refill in the fall, you can have your pumps on circulating to mix and dont have to worry about leaving pumps on all summer.
...well good luck and hope all goes well
At least if you refill in the fall, you can have your pumps on circulating to mix and dont have to worry about leaving pumps on all summer.
...well good luck and hope all goes well
15
Plumbing / Re: Design recommendation
« on: May 14, 2015, 02:08:16 PM »
Another way to control the return temperature is to install a Thermostatic by-pass valve, as is recommended by Central Boiler.
...basic theory is to not let any water go into a heat emitter, unless the water coming from the OWB is above 140f
...basic theory is to not let any water go into a heat emitter, unless the water coming from the OWB is above 140f