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Equipment / yukon splitters
« on: January 25, 2014, 08:17:58 AM »http://worcester.craigslist.org/tld/4299109229.html
Does anyone know anything about these splitters?
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Equipment / Re: Rugged Split
« on: March 23, 2013, 02:33:07 PM »Be careful of the cheap splitters. They may be ok... or they may not. Lots of little 'fibs' in their product literature. For example, they state their large hydraulic reservoir ensures fast cycle times. The size of the tank has nothing to do with how fast the machine will work. They're also stating it will produce 37 tons of splitting force. With the pump they are using, and the size of the cylinder, you'll be getting 25 tons. Barely. Which is more than enough, but why lie about it? That pump would have to be putting out almost 4000psi to get somewhere close to 37 tons.The large Tank will help with keeping the hydraulic oil cool if running for long periods of time...most of your high end splitters have a large oil tank...thats all im saying
You usually get exactly what you pay for!
and as far as tonnage ratio to psi...I run a 75 ton press brake and it only puts out 2500 psi on the pressure guage..there are other factors that comes in to play for tonnage.
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Equipment / Rugged Split
« on: March 23, 2013, 12:05:56 PM »
Has anyone had any experiences or information on this unit from IMS Machine...The specs are good for the price but I have not read or could find any reviews on this machine...It holds 8 gallons od hydraulic fluid..that is a good selling point because most of the splitters in this price range do not offer such a big tank...
Marc
http://www.imslogsplitter.com/
Marc
http://www.imslogsplitter.com/
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Fire Wood / Re: firewood prep
« on: March 19, 2013, 06:44:02 PM »12 cord of oak in MA - what is your heat load?I have a 3800 sq ft house with radiant floor and forced hot water.....Hot water also runs off the OWB
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Fire Wood / Re: firewood prep
« on: March 17, 2013, 08:59:28 AM »$700 for a grapple load in MA. Thats a good price.. I mix my wood with split and round....What I found if you burn all round wood the fire can burn the middle section out and the wood becomes arched and the wood wont fall in the fire.. Far as what size to split..Well thats your call..Your the one handling the wood! Craig's list is a good way of getting free pine.. Yes a decent wood splitter will cost about that..Like anything else what you pay is what you get..I personally like the Timberwolf's and the American CLS wood splitters.. And yes there is a difference from the ones at Tractor Supply, Lowes, etc..Iwas looking at the 37 ton frow Northern Tool....http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326296_200326296....Anyone have any reviews?
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Fire Wood / firewood prep
« on: March 16, 2013, 03:26:02 PM »
Hello all,
First year with my Central Boiler 6048. I got myself about 7 cord of Oak and cut another 2 cord of Oak from my lot and I still ran out.I need to have at least 12 cord of wood to start the next burn season...What do you guys do to get the best deal on wood?Is there a way to get free pine delivered?I figure that the pine would be good to mix withe the oak or use when it isn't as cold.I live in Mass and I am paying 700 for 7 cord of log lenghth Hardwood.I am cutting the narrow ones at 3 ft and cutting the large ones at 2 ft so I can split them in half for ease of lifting and for proper seasoning..I am looking to buy a log splitter this month..Do you guys find it necessary to split the wood or should I just say screw it..The place near my house that sells the OWB recommends that I split it. A descent splitter will run me about 2 grand ,so if there is really no significant advantage I would really not waste the money...I am not a fan of renting splitters because I would have to get it all done in a hurry and I am not into that.
Would like to hear everyones techniques on wood prep and what works for them..
Thanks,
Jed
First year with my Central Boiler 6048. I got myself about 7 cord of Oak and cut another 2 cord of Oak from my lot and I still ran out.I need to have at least 12 cord of wood to start the next burn season...What do you guys do to get the best deal on wood?Is there a way to get free pine delivered?I figure that the pine would be good to mix withe the oak or use when it isn't as cold.I live in Mass and I am paying 700 for 7 cord of log lenghth Hardwood.I am cutting the narrow ones at 3 ft and cutting the large ones at 2 ft so I can split them in half for ease of lifting and for proper seasoning..I am looking to buy a log splitter this month..Do you guys find it necessary to split the wood or should I just say screw it..The place near my house that sells the OWB recommends that I split it. A descent splitter will run me about 2 grand ,so if there is really no significant advantage I would really not waste the money...I am not a fan of renting splitters because I would have to get it all done in a hurry and I am not into that.
Would like to hear everyones techniques on wood prep and what works for them..
Thanks,
Jed
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Central Boiler 6048 Smoke
« on: October 23, 2012, 04:38:29 PM »Is your unit old? Do you have the handle on the side to real ease the smoke out the stack??no dide handle
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Central Boiler 6048 Smoke
« on: October 20, 2012, 04:36:56 PM »My furnance is located inside a pole buliding and sometimes smoke will overtake the building when loading it. I use a respirator just because I don't like the thoughts of my lungs filling up with smoke everytime I load or clean the furnace.What is the best type of respirator for smoke?
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General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Central Boiler 6048 Smoke
« on: October 18, 2012, 07:16:29 PM »
Hi,
New to the outdoor stove world but is it common when you open up the front door of the furnace that you get lots of smoke in your face...does anyone use a respirator mask when loading the stove?
New to the outdoor stove world but is it common when you open up the front door of the furnace that you get lots of smoke in your face...does anyone use a respirator mask when loading the stove?
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Plumbing / Re: Plumbed Wrong?
« on: October 04, 2012, 05:34:15 PM »
Just so everyone knows...my stove is a central boiler cl 6048..I was told that one of the most important things to do is to monitor ph and nitrate levels so the steel does not rust..this seemed logical to me or is that just bull to get me to buy more crap?
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Plumbing / Re: Pressure Guages
« on: October 04, 2012, 05:25:41 PM »I'm curious as to why you are concerned with pressures? It's an open system and the only psi produced is from elevation and restrictions...no..no worries about explosions....just curious...never had this type of stove before and I am trying to monitor pressure so I know when to change filters
Are you worried something is gonna blow up, or are you sizing pumps?
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Plumbing / Re: Plumbed Wrong?
« on: October 04, 2012, 05:16:23 PM »Are those gauges on the supply or return side of the filter? Perhaps the purpose is for monitoring for an increase in pressure/gpm if on the supply side of the filter or a reduction in pressure/gpm if on the return side of the filter. If monitored regularily, that would tell you when you would need to change the filter cartridge because of restriction. Perhaps the installer felt the fill water was not good or trying to take extra percaution against fouling a plate exchanger. Personally I'm not a fan of filters.They are on the supply side and yes they are there to monitor increase of pressure...are you telling me I dont need any of that huey?...just pipe and a temperature guage
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Plumbing / Re: Plumbed Wrong?
« on: October 04, 2012, 05:09:22 PM »I have no idea why the installer did half of the things he did on that installation...I was told the pressure guages are there to let you know when to change the filters...keeping the water free from debris and particulates makes the heat transfer more efficient...I did not hook up this system...I bought the home last winter and inherited everything that I know nothing about.I went to Mainline in Ashford Conn and they had me buy all kinds of stuff...filter cartridges,rust inhibiter,ph rite,pump cartridges,damper selonoid,ash nutralizer....I drained the whole system(about 300+ gallons)...they said I should do it every 4 years.....Any advise on what is overkill would be appreciated
I've never seen anyone that "had to" run a filter, and all those pressure gauges make me shake my head
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Plumbing / Re: Plumbed Wrong?
« on: October 04, 2012, 04:56:54 PM »the air should be pushed back to the wb, you shouldnt have to bleed anything.Thats what I thought but apparently the air stays over the filter
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Plumbing / Plumbed Wrong?
« on: October 03, 2012, 05:54:48 PM »
hi all,
here is a picture of my plumbing comming from my OWB to my heat exchanger.I am told that the drain spout should be between the two shutoffs so I am able to bleed all the air out when I change my filters.Is this a big issue?Is there a way to flush out that air?I would like to note that on the left side of the temperature guage there is a valve that is plumbed to add water from my well.would the pressure from turning the water on be enough to force the air from above the filter?
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
here is a picture of my plumbing comming from my OWB to my heat exchanger.I am told that the drain spout should be between the two shutoffs so I am able to bleed all the air out when I change my filters.Is this a big issue?Is there a way to flush out that air?I would like to note that on the left side of the temperature guage there is a valve that is plumbed to add water from my well.would the pressure from turning the water on be enough to force the air from above the filter?
[attachment deleted by admin for space issues]
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