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Author Topic: NEW HEATMOR 400 plumbing question  (Read 6152 times)

mlappin

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Re: NEW HEATMOR 400 plumbing question
« Reply #15 on: August 02, 2015, 11:23:05 AM »

I keep thinking about radiant, maybe a few rooms at a time, would love it upstairs but keep coming back to almost needing a separate pressurized system to get the water upstairs. Suppose that wouldn’t be horribly complicated, a flat plate, a small reservoir and a expansion tank.
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LittleJohn

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Re: NEW HEATMOR 400 plumbing question
« Reply #16 on: August 03, 2015, 06:38:04 AM »

I keep thinking about radiant, maybe a few rooms at a time, would love it upstairs but keep coming back to almost needing a separate pressurized system to get the water upstairs. Suppose that wouldn’t be horribly complicated, a flat plate, a small reservoir and a expansion tank.
...you forgot about the pump :P  ::), there might be bit of controls work to do but nothing too complicated
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heat550

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Re: NEW HEATMOR 400 plumbing question
« Reply #17 on: August 19, 2015, 03:04:25 AM »

Hey guys,

first off thank for all your advice thus far, it has been greatly appreciated. I have just purchased a new 400. It should be there within a week or two. I do have a question regarding the plumbing hook ups in the back...i see that it looks to be only 1 supply and return port, but they look to be about 1-1/2 ports to me....I am going to have 2 pumps hooked up(larger pump for house and smaller pump for shop). What is the best way to hook up the two pumps???? Brass??? Black Pipe??? Copper??? i have considered them all and figured i would seek advice from owners whom may have experience on set-ups that have worked well for them.

Any advice, pics or suggestions would be helpful!!!


Thanks again!!

Heres something to think about . I redid my plumbing 3 years ago was installed for 16 years. I had mix steel and brass copper. anything that was steel I could not get it apart including all pump fittings . all the brass not a problem .  So if your thinking long haul use brass . Yes it will cost but dealing with rusted together joints a night mirror . also on another note brass joints never leaked. any leaks I had were some of my sweated fittings I had to redo 3 way zone valves . any tips on sweating copper to brass Im all ears :) I have 3 zones on my stove I put all pumps in the buildings at the lowest point .  chasing air out was easy that way .
it all bubbled back to stove . I think everyone does it different. I did put air releases at highest point in each zone but never had to use them .  This is just the way I did it . purging lines 5 min.  Mine worked for 19 years and went throw 2 taco pumps  one I didn't have it turned right . other was defective .  So this just my findings . There is just lot ways to do it depending on different installations . shut off valves on both ends outside runs also is how I did it . my thinking was for adding and working on any problems . You dont need to deal with all the water in lines back feeding when your draining system to work on it .

Heat550
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slimjim

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Re: NEW HEATMOR 400 plumbing question
« Reply #18 on: August 19, 2015, 03:23:38 AM »

You did very well to get that life span out of it, another thing that bugs me about black iron is that when you are done plumbing and do the pressure test, if it leaks someplace, it's always in the worst possible place to fix it, never next to a union! With copper and brass, as long as you put the drains where they should be, it's as simple as draining it down and re sweating the joint!
 That  manifold is now done, pressurized to 28 pounds, the only leak we had was at a brass union that needed a bigger wrench.
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