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16
Plumbing / Re: Primary / secondary design
« on: September 25, 2014, 07:10:30 PM »
Keep in mind with that drawing there is now way to control supply temp to each zone. Each zone further down stream from the boiler supply will see lower temps. Think moose antlers or why they use that type
17
Plumbing / Re: pump size
« on: September 25, 2014, 07:01:19 PM »
Could yo imagine feeding, or if it can keep up with a bigger circulator with more flow........uh oh
18
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Ashton Outdoor wood furnace
« on: September 25, 2014, 06:44:24 PM »
Some pictures and more easy to find/validate info would do wonders. Much better than any words or editing would do.
19
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: How deep does insulated pipe need to be burried?
« on: September 02, 2014, 11:04:45 AM »
Many pipes get their rated crush strength only when buried , like simple drain tile has a 3000psi crush rating, but only when buried.
18" is fine many are 12" like septic lines. I'd only go deeper if you knew is was dry all the time. You'd have to deep enough to maintain above freezing conditions 24/7 to see a gain, and really deep, like 6' plus to see a measurable savings or gain. And that's only if its dry all the time.
18" is fine many are 12" like septic lines. I'd only go deeper if you knew is was dry all the time. You'd have to deep enough to maintain above freezing conditions 24/7 to see a gain, and really deep, like 6' plus to see a measurable savings or gain. And that's only if its dry all the time.
20
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water Jacket size---------Smaller/Bigger is Better?
« on: September 02, 2014, 10:51:24 AM »
Water jacket size alone has zero bearing on efficiency.
The calculation requires water volume AND wood volume in cubic feet. And this only gives you a total btu output, NOT a btu per hour figure.
This is where your max GPM flow and lbs of fuel per hour come into play, divided by the net firebox volume over lbs of fuel per hour, yields max btu per hour output at full burn.
Many homebrew stoves learn this the hard way, if they didn't use available formulas specific to wood stoves to figure this out.
Feeding two houses with any Empyre is a daunting feat, unless you don't mind constant monitoring and feeding.
Any water volume can be made to work as long as the fuel consumed per hour can be made to match the demand.
The calculation requires water volume AND wood volume in cubic feet. And this only gives you a total btu output, NOT a btu per hour figure.
This is where your max GPM flow and lbs of fuel per hour come into play, divided by the net firebox volume over lbs of fuel per hour, yields max btu per hour output at full burn.
Many homebrew stoves learn this the hard way, if they didn't use available formulas specific to wood stoves to figure this out.
Feeding two houses with any Empyre is a daunting feat, unless you don't mind constant monitoring and feeding.
Any water volume can be made to work as long as the fuel consumed per hour can be made to match the demand.
21
Plumbing / Re: Basement fill valve
« on: July 22, 2014, 10:35:52 AM »
Doesn't matter unless u have check valves even then u can still do it with some experience
22
Plumbing / Re: Failed Logstor?
« on: July 22, 2014, 09:51:13 AM »
Anything I've seen was installer error or heavy equipment damage. I've done a couple repairs successfully in the UP. All good and it's been over 5 years.
I don't think you will find a logstor Manu failure
I don't think you will find a logstor Manu failure
23
Plumbing / Re: geospring water heater
« on: July 15, 2014, 12:49:41 PM »
Those heat pump water heaters only work to their specification claims when their ambient room temps are 84 degrees and warmer constantly. They make the same amount as a standard 50 gal electric no more. And will be in hybrid mode if air temp is below that or high demand use like 10 minute shower or back to back showers
24
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: buffer tank
« on: July 15, 2014, 12:46:06 PM »
Is it still gravity or has it been converted?
With that American it will most likely have 1" ports where the elements are, just remove them and use those for S&R as long as you keep velocity low , you won't have problems.
Now you will have an air eliminator/ dirt separator / buffer in one.
With that American it will most likely have 1" ports where the elements are, just remove them and use those for S&R as long as you keep velocity low , you won't have problems.
Now you will have an air eliminator/ dirt separator / buffer in one.
25
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Moderators
« on: July 15, 2014, 12:40:13 PM »
I appreciate you being on top of that
26
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: DIY spray foam closed cell 7.1-7.6 per inch
« on: July 15, 2014, 12:38:38 PM »
Yes, when doing a comparison , logstor is the industry leader/standard by which everyone else tries to meet.
I'll get some numbers here, but it works out for custom sizes and long lengths. 1.25ID and larger and over 200' of pipe. Since anything over 1.25ID usually has to be ordered and takes a long time and the price per foot skyrockets.
For example 4" PVC $1.43/ft.
1.5" wirsbo $3.53/ft
100' of 4" PVC has a volume of 8.8 cu/ft.
Dow froth Pak 120= 10 cu/ft for $180
Dow froth pak 200. 16.8 cu/ft. $299 when on sale
4x8 sheet of foam board 1" $20
Equals $6.96 per foot not including extra PVC fittings to get logstor performance
One you have rigid PVC but flexible for ground movement going to 6" PVC adds $2.57/ft with bell ends, using 6" SDR adds $1.82/ft, going to 2" pex like on the farm adds $2.67/ft.
Keeping you far below market prices and allows for underground splicing
It is a lot of prep work but it's the same way logstor actually does it on site at stadiums for example doing huge projects.
I'll get some numbers here, but it works out for custom sizes and long lengths. 1.25ID and larger and over 200' of pipe. Since anything over 1.25ID usually has to be ordered and takes a long time and the price per foot skyrockets.
For example 4" PVC $1.43/ft.
1.5" wirsbo $3.53/ft
100' of 4" PVC has a volume of 8.8 cu/ft.
Dow froth Pak 120= 10 cu/ft for $180
Dow froth pak 200. 16.8 cu/ft. $299 when on sale
4x8 sheet of foam board 1" $20
Equals $6.96 per foot not including extra PVC fittings to get logstor performance
One you have rigid PVC but flexible for ground movement going to 6" PVC adds $2.57/ft with bell ends, using 6" SDR adds $1.82/ft, going to 2" pex like on the farm adds $2.67/ft.
Keeping you far below market prices and allows for underground splicing
It is a lot of prep work but it's the same way logstor actually does it on site at stadiums for example doing huge projects.
27
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Moderators
« on: July 07, 2014, 09:51:48 AM »
I see they haven't made any changes to member registration since we are still getting 2-6 spams a day. Most don't post tho
28
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: buffer tank
« on: July 07, 2014, 09:28:54 AM »
Why are you using 2" for headers, do you really have that big of a load? That's what I use on commercial or farms with several greenhouses or buildings. You just need to pipe for 2-4' per second velocity. 1.25-1.5 ID's covers most . What type of tank you have?
29
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Looking for a New Boiler
« on: July 06, 2014, 08:47:33 AM »
Adding storage / buffer tank will fix any oversize ing issues. It will keep the stove in the Burne or sweet spot much longer and lengthen time between burn cycles.
30
The cost, well I usually get $480-$670 to install a new circ. I have NEVER replaced a circ on one of my installs going back to 96' was the first open system I did. I warrant my systems for 10 years when I design. So yes it does cost more, but I bet in the month of November on just this site there were 25 plus circ failures and several that ate 3 in one season.
I am expensive, and sometimes stupid expensive, but I want a heating system that a family or business depends on to be trouble free and reliable. It ain't no joke when your $10,000-$30,000 system just went down because of a $100-$350 part.
I still install what the owner wants to pay for when they choose.
I am expensive, and sometimes stupid expensive, but I want a heating system that a family or business depends on to be trouble free and reliable. It ain't no joke when your $10,000-$30,000 system just went down because of a $100-$350 part.
I still install what the owner wants to pay for when they choose.