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Messages - yoda

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61
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water to forced air
« on: November 11, 2008, 06:23:26 PM »
 Makes sense, thanks

62
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Water to forced air
« on: November 10, 2008, 08:27:24 PM »

I have a coworker that had to install his in the return and has had no problems to date. The hot air across the blower motor was a concern but as of now it has not caused any problems. I will tell you to make sure that the water goes into the bottom of the coil and out the top in order for it to work.
my coil is on the "hot" side but I have my hot water going into the top of the coil. Should I change it around? if so why? thanks

63
Shaver Furnace / Re: Insulation
« on: November 10, 2008, 08:14:18 PM »
 Ok I'm a little concerned, I was out of town hunting this last weekend and had my father in law stop by twice a day to fill my stove for me. Before I left I had turned my thermostat down to aprox 58.  When I got home all was well, It had been about 12 hours since my father inlaw had filled it. I had a nice bed of hot coals water temp. according to my infrared thermometer was aprox 165 the fan was off. I filled the stove with wood, went in the house, turned the thermostat up to 68. Also my wife did 4 loads of laundry, ( I do use the pottable hot water coil for heating my DHW) It was about 25 degrees outside and very windy. Anyway within about an hour it had raised the temp in the house to 65 but by this time the water temp had dropped to 125 and it seamed to be struggling to bring the temp up any higher. The forced draft fan was on and the fire looked to be burning good, so I turned on my propane furnace to help bring it up to 68 degrees, then I turned the propane furnace off.  I went to bed around 10:30 I was having trouble sleeping, half listening for my forced air furnace fan kicking on and off, finally I got up at 12;30 and went down to the basement, it was keeping the house at 68, but my water temp was still only 125. I went outside and checked my boiler and the forced draft fan was on and the fire was burning pretty good. I loaded up the boiler again went in the house, turned on the propane furnace, brought the house up to 71, turned off the propane, left the fan for the furnace set at 68 thinking this would give the boiler a chance to raise the water temp and "catch up" Went to bed, finally fell asleep at about 2, got up with the alarm at 6:30, house was at 68 water temp 165, wood almost gone but nice bed of hot coals.
 Does this sound normal? should I have left the thermostat at 68 when I left for the weekend? or used my propane furnace to bring up the temp in the house then turn it off? I guess i'm concerned when it gets -20 outside it may not keep up. Maybe it's much easier to maintain temp in the house than to raise it by 10 degrees. Maybe I'm just obsessive like my wife says  ???

64
Shaver Furnace / Re: Insulation
« on: November 10, 2008, 07:33:52 PM »
Well thought I would give an update since its down to around 30 degrees outside.  Cant believe how much better this thing is working.  I can fill it full around 4 pm before I go to work and it still has wood in it the next morning at 6:30 and the fan isn't even on.  Finally got it dialed in.
Do you think it made a big difference insulating it ? or did you just get the hang of how to use it better, load it etc?

65
Shaver Furnace / Re: Insulation
« on: October 28, 2008, 12:37:38 PM »
gandgracing, how many times do you have to load your stove? I've been loading mine 3 times a day, it's not very cold out yet, I'm a little concerned when it gets below zero It's not going to burn all night. Although I'm burning soft wood right now, saving my birch and maple for when it gets cold. Does anyone have experience with the shaver165 in cold climates?Expected burn times etc.? Will birch and maple burn considerably longer than pine,poplar,cottonwood?

66
Shaver Furnace / Re: Insulation
« on: October 27, 2008, 02:29:15 PM »
 I did wire mine so the pump runs all the time, after reading about other brands online and talking to people it seems thats the way most of the owb do it, I also thought it just made more sense since my stove sits aprox 125 feet from the house I didn't want my forced air furnace to blow cold air untill the hot water made it from the stove to the house. May also help from getting hot spots and boiling. (It makes sense to me and the voices in my head agree) ;D
  I do ussually rake the coals over the grate and fill it pretty full with aprox. 24 inch logs,  I noticed it works better if I don't push the logs all the way back to the back of the stove, instead I leave them as far forward as possible so they sit over the grate, also then the chimney isn't always in the way. But then you can only use logs up to about 24 inches. Hope this helps

67
Fire Wood / wood drying time
« on: October 24, 2008, 09:22:14 AM »
 This will be my first year of burning wood I have a shaver 165, I bought 12 cord of green birch/maple. Was in 8 foot lenths, I cut it up into 2 foot lenths and split anything over apro 10 inches diameter,(probably half of it) I finished that up at the end of sept. Will this be ready to burn by mid december or should I be looking to cut some dryer stuff? I do have aprox. 10 acres of my own woods with some dead standing maple that I hope to make use of, just trying to find the time to get out there.

68
Shaver Furnace / Re: Shaver OWB's
« on: October 23, 2008, 05:11:19 PM »
Yoda, it seals the end of the motor housing that has slots cut into it. Squirrel cage is on the opposite end. My rubber flap the opens with the solenoid sits above the squirrel cage. when the flap is closed it can still draw air thru the other end of the motor housing, where the slots are, if the flexible pipe boot is not on. Maybe you set up is different. Worked for me, just fine.
The squirel gcage on mine is visible through the slots so I think my setup is a little different if I understand you correctly. Cool idea though and I think I could get to work in my application also.  What do I ask for at home depot or what department/ whats it called or normally used for? Thanks for the idea and the reply :thumbup:

69
Shaver Furnace / Re: Insulation
« on: October 23, 2008, 04:50:04 PM »
 That is how the shaver works, willie could be right on, I would want to (babysit) the stove and find out if the water is boiling before the forced draft fan shuts off or after, I know how discouraging it can be to buy something new and have trouble :bash:  hang in there you'lle figure it out. So far am am very satisfied with my shaver 165, I hope I feel the same next spring  :thumbup:

70
General Discussion / Re: Welcome
« on: October 23, 2008, 04:01:33 PM »
  I have been looking for a forum dedicated to owb users for a long time this will be my first year using my new boiler. Seperate categories for differrent stoves even.  Exactly what I was looking for,should be a great resource.  I don;t remember how I even stumbled upon it. Everytime I've tried to google it I can only find information about people bashing them. So to whom it may concern, thanks for the forum, I just hope people can find it :thumbup:

71
Shaver Furnace / Re: Shaver OWB's
« on: October 23, 2008, 02:05:57 PM »
 Only been using my shaver 165  for a couple of weeks, so far all is well and working good. not that cold out yet, hopefully I will still be happy when it gets below zero. (Northern Minnesota) :-\

72
Shaver Furnace / Re: Shaver OWB's
« on: October 23, 2008, 02:01:42 PM »
Gandgracing, my neighbors Wood Doctor had the same issue, as did the replacement fan i bought for my Wood Master from Graingers. Get a rubber end cap in the plumbing section at Lowes, etc. Has a hose clamp on it and just slide it over the end of the motor,that's sucking air thru. Did that 2 years ago and no problems. My stove runs year round. I also oil the motor twice a year. Hope this helps. Charlie :thumbup:
I don't understand, rubber end cap? how does this seal the air off when fan is off, or let air in when fan kicks on? Please explain

73
Shaver Furnace / Re: Insulation
« on: October 23, 2008, 01:48:46 PM »
 Also I had to set my thermostat down to about 160 on my stove to keep the water from boiling. I monotored the stove closely the first time I fired it, as soon as I heard the water just start to boil I turned the thermostat on the stove down untill the fan shut off then turned it down a hair further. Haven't had a problem since but this is my first year with it.  So hope it works well this winter.  Also I only leave the fan cover open aprox 1/3

74
Shaver Furnace / Re: Insulation
« on: October 23, 2008, 01:42:10 PM »
Well the house was sitting at around 63 degrees so I decided to start the stove.  Started a fire,  heated the water and then heated the house to around 70.  All was working well,  water was up to temp and so was the house.  Then about 2-3 hrs later the water started boiling ( fan wasn't on and fan door was half open) and here comes the steam.  The whole inside of the stove (insulation and roof) was soaked.  Had to open the rear door to let it air out.  Why is this happening?
  Did you seal around the pottable hot water coil access cover with silocone?  I think it explains this in the owners manual. But even if you did seal it up around the access cover if the water boils, steam will leak around the cover.  Fix your water boiling problem, make sure the cover is sealed and you will be ok

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