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Topics - mlappin

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General Discussion / Christmas is coming
« on: November 13, 2017, 08:37:18 PM »
So anybody have any must have toys? I just bought myself the 12volt Milwaukee tubing cutter. If my neck is acting up canít make very many cuts with a manual tubing cutter before getting the dropsyís. Other day picked corn all day, had drivers but no competent grain cart operator so Dad picked and I drove cart. Looked over the right shoulder a bunch, then over the left shoulder a bunch unloading and watching the Cab Cam to see in the trucks. Worked in the shop a bit after quitting for the night, made bought half a dozen cuts putting a flat plate ďkitĒ together, manual cutter yet, ended up dropping one of the flush/purge valves. Of course it landed on the end and dented the bore, had to massage that out with a teeny little ball peen so the copper would slide in.

Thinking about having the wife pick me up some more of the M12 stuff. Have always been a DeWalt guy, but kinda like the ergonomics of the tubing cutter. Besides with red tools dad wonít be making off with my red batteries for the farms yellow tools. Heís bad about running a battery down, then not putting it in the charger. Just kills batteries if they sit around dead.

The Wall Of Shame / One of those days
« on: November 07, 2017, 09:07:21 PM »
Was messing around with the waste oil burner some more today, then got sidetracked and forgot to add wood to the G200. By time I caught it the coals were gone (ash sucks). Had enough charred wood in it that a wad of shipping paper got it going in short order.

Then was reassembling the drive assembly for the unloading auger on the corn combine. Was picking the other night and had a horrible howl to it that would come and go, never found the offending bearing but it did act like it wanted to lock up a few times turning it by hand. Previous owner must have left it outside a lot. Everything was stuck enough ended up cutting all the bearings out with the gas axe. Anyways, got the cross shaft installed, installed the bearings, installed the required shims, installed the pulley, then seen I forgot to install the bolts for the bearing retainer, had to disassemble to get the bolts in. Donít recall why, but the service manual for the other combine (identical assembly) says the bolts must be installed from the inside out.

Combine by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

Then since the new flighting showed up today installed that as well. Got it slid on the tube then looked at it awhile and decided didnít like it and it needed flipped end to end. Got it apart, finally and slid it on after flipping it end to end. SH*T, was better the other way, got it off again and reinstalled the way I had it the first time. Had half a section of flight left over so reinforced the end that was hid that had a hole wore thru it.

Combine by Marty Lappin, on Flickr

Electronics / Spade connections for solid wire
« on: November 05, 2017, 10:53:18 AM »
So other than using stranded pigtails, any other cute ways to get a spade terminal on the end of a solid wire?

I suppose could always crimp then solder them. Kinda a hassle, then just one more thing to haul around. Soís messing with pigtails though.

Seems kinda odd that fan relays come with spade terminals when thermostat wire is almost always solid wire.

General Discussion / Custom made floats
« on: November 02, 2017, 04:12:52 PM »
So have an odd one again, need a float for a cattle waterer. Originals were a 7Ē square block of styrofoam about 4Ē thick. Iíve thought about making one out of 2 pieces of 2Ē styrofoam, however being a moist environment I wondered about water or crud collecting between the layers. Also the originals had a thin plastic coating on em, not sure if styrofoam can become waterlogged or if it was to help it slide a little in case the float rubbed the side of the housing itís in.

Tried round floats first for like a toilet, no dice, even rigged four up together, no good, Tried square floats, those work a little better since they have more surface in contact with the water immediately, still not good as a single doesnít create enough lift to shut the brass valve, two side be side get a little cocked then wedge in the housing.

Have tried all the online stores, so far zilch. The original manufacturer of these waterer was local but went out of business decades ago. Guessing they are 40 years old now, metal tank but porcelain coated.

General Discussion / Core drill motor on last legs.
« on: October 16, 2017, 02:03:10 PM »
Donít think my core drill motor has much life left, was a generic anyways so not worth rebuilding. My base however is solid and I have a Bridgeport so making an adapter plate to fit any brand to it isnít a big deal.

I can get a Milwaukee 15 amp model that handles a 5 inch bit with clutch for $699 new.

Iíve also found a used three speed Hilti that will handle a 6 1/2Ē bit for $450, no mention of a clutch. Pulls 18 amps. Of course the Hilti will need a hundred dollar adapter to go from splines to threaded.

Iím kinda leaning towards the 15 amp as most homeowners wonít have a 20 amp circuit available most of the time. Currently unless they have an outdoor outlet right at the spot Iím working Iíve been using my generator to run the drill which of course is just one more thing to haul around.

To those that might have used one or both before, what say you? Trying to rent one around here is futile, most of the time construction companies or paving crews have em for months at a time.

Home Made / Designing my Generation 2 waste oil boiler.
« on: October 11, 2017, 06:53:50 PM »
So after building the last waste oil boiler designed around a burner from http://usedoilheatingsystems.com/ I stumbled on a kit to take the an standard fuel oil burner and convert it to waste oil, of course. The one I built works fine, but needs manually lit for starters, then once the water reaches 192 it shuts off automatically but then needs relit again if needed. Primarily I use it for batch burns in the shoulder seasons.

Iím thinking with an automatic setup next time we go overseas for three or four weeks just make sure the oil reservoir is full and let the G200 go out. Father has already proven heís both too set in his ways and/or stubborn to actually follow directions on keeping a gasifier going. Last time we went away for a few days he forgot to fill it in the morning, then that night he just dropped some small crap in the bottom, some more stuff on top and left, got home at 8PM to the red light flashing and 108 degree water on the coldest night that month had to offer.

Anyways, thinking dry base this time lined with firebrick as water cooled metal really quenches the flame, the ceramic blanket directly above my burn pot always has a fine white ash on it as well as the door, everywhere else is a black sooty mess. Keeping it compact as well to regain some floor space, thinking 3-4í long lower burn chamber then to a vertical section with heat exchanger tubes and turbolators, pretty sure I know where I can get some of those. Get a new 250 gallon oblong fuel tank to mount overhead for storage.

Anyways, link to conversion kit.


General Discussion / Combo press brake/shear
« on: October 04, 2017, 02:25:16 PM »
The days of using a uni shear and flat folders for sheetmetal work is quickly coming to an end. Neck issues from getting rear ended years ago cause the hands to go numb in short order. When home and I have stuff to do a straight edge and the plasma cutter makes short work of any cutting project. I built crude dies to place in our shop press for a down and dirty press brake.

However Iím looking for something that I can take to jobs with me and use on site. Iíve found several used ones in the area, some are obvious chinese crap from either the name or price. One possibility is a Enco combo shear/press brake/roller. However for a few hundred bucks more than they want for it, plus the 2 1/2 hour drive each way I can have a brand new Jet delivered to the farm. Jet isnít my first choice if I can afford it, however it would be higher quality than the other chinese knock offs and most likely the Enco as well.

Looking at 30Ē capacity machines for portability.

A new Jet delivered to the shop is $849.

A new Dayton picked up from WW Grainger is $923. Made in China, looks just like the Harbor Freight model practically, different color paint.

A Balleigh, which Iíve never heard of with shipping comes out the same as the Jet.

The Enco is $500 plus my drive time. Iíve not been able to find anything on Enco, but havenít gone thru a 6 pack of adult beverages looking either.

Harbor Freight, $400. Obvious lower quality.

Then a few brands that Northern Tool carries. They have Jet for the same price I found before, but additional shipping charges then something called a Klutch for $500 plus shipping.

Anybody ever use any of the above? If the Enco was closer Iíd look pretty hard at it, Enco always was imported stuff, but used to be higher end imported stuff instead of imported crap from what little Iíve found on the internerd.

Back in the day when I first got out of high school and worked at a factory doing maintenance and fab work, Dayton always cost more, but it was always made in the USA, now Dayton just costs more but more than likely is chinese.

Iím leaning towards the Jet atm. Iím sure I could find something cheaper, but Iíve never minded paying more for tools as long as the difference in price is reflected in quality. 50 years from now I plan on people saying ďhe sure had a lot of nice stuffĒ at my estate sale instead of ďwhat a bunch of crapĒ.

So to clear the post topic up, whats the strangest thing youíve thought about trying to heat with your OWB or for dealers whatís the strangest thing youíve either done or been asked about if a OWB can heat it?

Iíve three that are kinda outside the norm.

First was for a honey room, needs to be 114 degrees F for the honey to flow well from the combs, but also needs to be able to hit 140 degrees F if the honey is froze or crystalized.

Back during the labor day festival I had a guy ask if he installed a OWB if he could heat his aquariums. Sounded like he had a 65, 125, and a 150 gallon aquarium. It could be done, just not sure its worth it. Decided on if something like that was attempted would need a separate loop and heater for each, as if you use a common heater and one loop for all the aquariums if you get one sick tank, your gonna have three sick tanks in no time. I have four atm myself. Two have been established for awhile and I use a set of common tools for them. Tongs, gravel vac, etc. I also have a 14 gallon we just set up with cherry shrimp, panda coryís and a half-moon betta. Have a 29 gallon that has plants, fish and nerite snails in it that is under quarantine yet. Have separate tools for each, use a common gravel vac for those two but the 14 gallon is done first, then the quarantine, then the gravel vac goes on the back porch to sit in the sun for a week.

Last one is what Iím installing now, has a 30x40 pole barn, will be adding a 20x30 addition for a kiln room then another 20x30 to place his saw mill. The 30x30 will be his main work area and will be more environmentally managed than his house. He wants it at a steady 70 all winter. Heíll also be adding both a dehumidifier for the summer and a humidifier for the winter. He makes some really quality stuff, closer the moisture and temp stays all the time less swelling or shrinkage he has to deal with when building furniture.

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Real head scratcher
« on: September 06, 2017, 08:43:27 PM »
So sold a G100 to a guy to replace his 16-17 year old Woodmaster, no problems there, he sold his old Woodmaster to a kid for a $1000 bucks. Iíve talked to the guy numerous times, been by his house and seen all of his vehicles, everything is meticulously maintained. Only issue I seen with the Woodmaster is needs  a new door seal.

So, my uncle happened to be at the guys house that bought the Woodmaster, they had talked to me before about hooking it up. Phil was replacing the septic line from the house to the tank as it was orange burg pipe and was clogged with tree roots.

Soon as I pulled in regretted to dealing with this, house has the old thick fieldstone basement walls, one wall in the basement has been replaced with block from tree roots pushing on it, that is inaccessible as it has porch on the outside. Ground is so hard and dry Phil was about standing the mini on itís nose trying to dig, so no way am I hand digging under the porch to run the pipe. Only other accessible wall is thru the crawl space of course. So looks like Iíll be breaking the new diamond coring bit out for this one.

Now for the real issue, basement is low, real low, even with only reaching the standard Lappin height of 5í9Ē I still whacked my head a few times on the floor joists. They just had room to get the A coil in above the furnace, then to top it off looks like they connected the A coil then ran the return duct as there is exactly zero room to work. The guy Iíve been talking to has several rental homes as well and their HVAC guy already has em dead set against a HX in the return, and the way thats set up wonít be easy either unless I literally mount it in the furnace cabinet.

So back to doing several smaller HXís in the trunk lines, except even those are a cluster f*ck. One 8x18 trunk heading east, one 8Ēx8Ē heading north then three 6Ē rounds heading west and south. The three rounds are attached directly to the main that houses the A coil. Actually found a 8Ēx8Ē, so thats not an issue. No such thing as a 8Ēx18Ē. So will have to cut the duct out on two sides, fit a 12x18 then blank in around whats not in the duct. For the 3 rounds I figure to build another 8x18 trunk line, get it the required distance from the A coil then hook the rounds back in and blank another 12Ēx18Ē HX in so both large trunks are the same.

Now for the fun part, figured to use a mono flo T to split off to the large HXís. After that Iím not sure whether to bring both returns back together, then use another mono flo T to feed the  8Ēx8Ē HX. The other thing I figured to do first is to see how many 6Ē rounds come off the 8x18 trunk, if itís more then I might just take the return from the HX feeding the three 6Ē ducts and run that to the 8x8 HX since it wonít have the airflow thru it that the other has.

My sense of direction didnít fail me though. Owner of the place wasnít even sure what wall we were looking at once in the basement. I knew even in a strange basement where north was. I told him think about it this way, we came in the side door, walked thru the living room,  turned right into the kitchen, turned right into the hallway, turned right to the basement stairs, turned right again once in the basement, so there for we were facing the same direction we started.

General Discussion / LaGrange Steam and Power show
« on: August 16, 2017, 08:09:06 AM »
Use one of these for a bit and youíll never cuss your chainsaw again. Of course my wife said with this you take a lawn chair and a cooler to the woods, get it started on a cut then kick back and have a few adult beverages while waiting on it. Wonder why I married her?

Steam traction engine running a sawmill:

After watching this I think weíll be sticking with no-till and with all the play in the steering my Trimble auto steer would never work on it:

HeatMaster / Kiln room
« on: August 14, 2017, 05:24:11 PM »
Talked to a guy this afternoon, runs a sawmill and builds cabinets, aquarium stands or whatever. Sounds like heís working out of his garage now, is working on a 30x32 shop to move everything into, wants a consistent 70 degrees as well as a consistent humidity, talking about a stand alone dehumidifier as well as adding a humidifier to the air handler for winter. Now for the interesting part, he already cuts his own wood but is paying for kiln drying, wants to add on another 1000 sq ft or so as a kiln room, Iím imagining weíll need several dehumidifiers in that as well.

General Discussion / Finding a viable replacement for Photobucket
« on: August 12, 2017, 12:35:29 PM »
Iím still trying  to find a decent replacement for Photobucket {not that it was that great anyways}.

For those that donít know, from now on for a linked picture there to be shown in posts here, itís gonna cost you $400 in ransom a year, er I mean membership fee.

So far Iíve tried Amazon Drive and Google Photos. Personally I hate Google, the privacy policy is horrible as well as the policy about subpoenaís and emails.

Neither Amazon nor Google supply the necessary .jpg suffix in the link for the ďinsert imageĒ function to work properly.

I have a Flickr account I have posted from in the past, itís kinda weird as well, not near as easy as just clinking on the link Photobucket supplied.

General Discussion / Stripping oak trim
« on: August 11, 2017, 08:06:44 AM »
So have this old farmhouse thatís been in the family for three generations, has all the old red oak trim in it yet along with like a dozen coats of varnish or shellac on it then about four layers of paint >:(  Tried chemical strippers and even a heat gun, getting the paint off is easy, whatever the original finish was just turns to slime then glue when it dries back up, near impossible to get out of all the little nooks and crannies. I seen once one this old house or something where they used ground corn cobs to strip the old finish, Iíve yet to find anybody in my area that does cob blasting, so I was wonder how baking soda might work? We do have a guy a few towns over that does soda blasting.

I hate to just scrap it and buy all new, right in the abstract it has where they cut down x number of red oaks, took em to the sawmill, brought it back here, stacked it for a few years, then hauled it to town again to be cut into millwork.

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