Thermocouple has been giving some low temps, ie 190 . the reaction chamber has no ash and the fire is strong with a good bed of coals. So to take out the thermocouple do I remove the refractory in the fire box to get at it? I didn't see the mastic tape in the air box cover mentioned in the manual .

I am also measuring the temperatures with a Click PLC and some ESP8266 flashed with Tasmota.  I have the readings going to my Home Assistant instance and logging the data with InfluxDB and Grafana.

I finally got this boiler installed and have it heating my house and a 45x60 shop with floor heat.  It works great!
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YY3SUF3RA7HLLSeeA

Burning a fair amount of iron wood this winter.  If dry it burns very nice.

My 4400 has temp reading of 16F and bouncing around as high as 40f
Won't cycle the blower
Set Temp 160F
Restart the blower and it stops at 117F or wherever it wants
Will not recycle
Stove goes cold

Greetings.

I have a Central CL4436 which I inherited when we bought the property 7 years ago or so.  Had to replace the pump once and rigged a wireless thermostat controller for the pump but otherwise no issues.  We use it for several months a year here in southern VA.  This year there appears to be problem, i.e., I can't rely on the damper opening when the water temp drops.  The damper will open when I open the door to the control panel but typically will shut again when I close the control panel door.  This morning the fire was practically out and after I played with the control panel door (opening/closing) the damper door stayed open. 

My presumption is that there isn't a problem with the damper door but with the electronics controlling the damper door.  I suspect this will be an expensive fix but I have never dismantled this part of the system.  Perhaps this is best left to a service provider?

Comments or suggestions?

Thanks.

Hi all,

I have a Woodmaster LT90. I went to fire it up this season and the front panel said fuse. Everything was working fine, then the bottom blower kicked on and would stop. I turned off the fan then went to turn it on and the stove trips. It seems to run fine when I start it cold but when it starts to heat up it trips. Where are the fuses located on a Woodmaster? I’m also replacing the snap disc hoping that might be my problem. Any help is appreciated.

https://www.woodboilersolutions.com/canada.cfm

I have a Polar G2 and when I purchased it there was a gallon of Treatment Solution 101G2 included with it. I have been using it since but it is getting very had to find here in Ontario Canada. Just wondering if anyone has used this stuff and if there is anything better that I could use. And, if changing chemicals is a big issue. Do I need to flush the system or can they be mixed ?
I am not sure about the whole mixing of chemicals thing

I've thought about doing something similar myself, but never gotten around to it.

I've read reports of being able to store massive amounts of heat this way, with people burning their boiler once every few days to heat their tanks, then using the heat from the tanks after that. I'm a little skeptical of their performance reports, and I'd think not running the boiler for a couple of days could be a problem unless you've got the boiler water loaded up with antifreeze... but I've never tried it, so I don't know anything for certain.