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1
Equipment / Husq. 576xp AutoTune
« on: June 17, 2019, 03:26:08 PM »
Anyone have anything to say about these guys? I'm looking to upgrade my 460 Rancher (going to keep it around, but as a secondary and for smaller stuff). I'm 100% going with Husky, on account of it's what I've used for years and trust. My original dealer sold his business and I've since moved... so I can't have this conversation with him.
Anyways - I'm really liking what I'm reading online about the 576xp AutoTune. Most everyone has something positive to say. I was originally interested in the 372xp, but after doing some more looking and reading, I reckon I landed on the 576xpAT. Has anyone used them, or worked on them, or noticed big issues with them?
I strictly cut for firewood and really just want to make my life easier with a faster/bigger saw than the 460. I'm going to get a 28" bar for felling and larger bucking, but I'll also have a 24" & 18" bar also. All 3/8" x 0.050". I do my own sharpening and maintenance.
Really just looking to see if anyone has their own $.02 to throw in before I lay down the cash. Is there a better option?
Thanks.
Anyways - I'm really liking what I'm reading online about the 576xp AutoTune. Most everyone has something positive to say. I was originally interested in the 372xp, but after doing some more looking and reading, I reckon I landed on the 576xpAT. Has anyone used them, or worked on them, or noticed big issues with them?
I strictly cut for firewood and really just want to make my life easier with a faster/bigger saw than the 460. I'm going to get a 28" bar for felling and larger bucking, but I'll also have a 24" & 18" bar also. All 3/8" x 0.050". I do my own sharpening and maintenance.
Really just looking to see if anyone has their own $.02 to throw in before I lay down the cash. Is there a better option?
Thanks.
2
Fire Wood / Any wood suppliers near me?
« on: April 25, 2019, 05:54:07 PM »
Hello - going out on a limb here (pun intended), but does anyone know any lumber companies that might deliver entire truck loads of wood to the central Illinois area? I've spent a good amount of time scouring the internet and I've found a bunch of tree trimming services that I've reached out to and offered my place as a free drop off for their wood. Loads are few and far between with most of them, however, and I'd really like to just get an entire 9-11 cord trailer dumped (even 2 or 3 would be fine 
) - even at cost and even if I have to cut it myself. I'd be interested in pulp wood/green wood, tops, etc... But I can't find anything nearby. Best I've come up with are landscaping suppliers that want to sell individual face chords at $80+ and similar prices. Buying a bulk load is cost effective for me as opposed to burning gas, but buying individual face chords split and ready to go isn't.
Thanks for any ideas.
) - even at cost and even if I have to cut it myself. I'd be interested in pulp wood/green wood, tops, etc... But I can't find anything nearby. Best I've come up with are landscaping suppliers that want to sell individual face chords at $80+ and similar prices. Buying a bulk load is cost effective for me as opposed to burning gas, but buying individual face chords split and ready to go isn't.Thanks for any ideas.
3
Plumbing / Desperate for troubleshooting advice. Please help.
« on: November 11, 2016, 09:25:37 PM »
Fired up the OWB today...
I cannot, for the life of me, get hot water from the OWB into my DHW HX, nor can I get it into my Water -> Air HX.
This is my 3rd season using the OWB (Central Boiler 5036). I did all the plumbing and installation myself. It's a very simplistic set-up and I'm very familiar with it. Water exits the boiler via a Taco pump, runs underground through my Thermopex, enters the house, comes through my Thermostatic Mixing Valve, enters a plate HX for DHW first, continues into my furnace plenum via a water -> air HX, then exits the house through the aforementioned mixing valve. Basically, everything was installed to manufacturer recommendations.
Hot boiler water is making it to the mixing valve just fine. At first, I figured my loop (past the mixing valve) was vapor locked since it is physically higher in elevation. This is not the case, I have bled the line. I've also purged both HXs using an external water supply (backflushed, if you will).
Furthermore, I can break my loop in multiple spots to verify flow. If I break my loop before the DHW HX, I get boiler water to come out. If I break it after my DHW HX, I get the same result (proving to myself that the HX isn't plugged). I can do the same thing for the water -> air HX with the same results. Point being, neither HX is plugged. This also proves that the mixing valve is working since boiler water will make it to the broken loops.
When I piece everything back together, however, I get the same problem - no flow to either HX.
I'm left with very few things to check: Either my pump doesn't have enough a** to get water through the system effectively (although, it appears to have more than enough pressure when broken) or perhaps my mixing valve isn't working as well as I think it should? Or... am I completely missing something?
Does anyone have advice? I'm getting a little desperate; burning propane isn't nearly as fun as wood (or as cheap).
I really don't want to start mindlessly replacing parts until I find a cure either...
I cannot, for the life of me, get hot water from the OWB into my DHW HX, nor can I get it into my Water -> Air HX.
This is my 3rd season using the OWB (Central Boiler 5036). I did all the plumbing and installation myself. It's a very simplistic set-up and I'm very familiar with it. Water exits the boiler via a Taco pump, runs underground through my Thermopex, enters the house, comes through my Thermostatic Mixing Valve, enters a plate HX for DHW first, continues into my furnace plenum via a water -> air HX, then exits the house through the aforementioned mixing valve. Basically, everything was installed to manufacturer recommendations.
Hot boiler water is making it to the mixing valve just fine. At first, I figured my loop (past the mixing valve) was vapor locked since it is physically higher in elevation. This is not the case, I have bled the line. I've also purged both HXs using an external water supply (backflushed, if you will).
Furthermore, I can break my loop in multiple spots to verify flow. If I break my loop before the DHW HX, I get boiler water to come out. If I break it after my DHW HX, I get the same result (proving to myself that the HX isn't plugged). I can do the same thing for the water -> air HX with the same results. Point being, neither HX is plugged. This also proves that the mixing valve is working since boiler water will make it to the broken loops.
When I piece everything back together, however, I get the same problem - no flow to either HX.
I'm left with very few things to check: Either my pump doesn't have enough a** to get water through the system effectively (although, it appears to have more than enough pressure when broken) or perhaps my mixing valve isn't working as well as I think it should? Or... am I completely missing something?
Does anyone have advice? I'm getting a little desperate; burning propane isn't nearly as fun as wood (or as cheap).
I really don't want to start mindlessly replacing parts until I find a cure either...
4
Equipment / So, this thing...
« on: May 11, 2016, 09:31:44 PM »
http://www.fiskars.com.au/products/gardening/forestry-tools-saws/woodxpert-sappie-xa22-1003623
Found this online while looking for log tongs and other hauling equipment. Does anyone know if they're available stateside? I sent an email straight to Fiskars, but I'm not putting much faith in a response.
Reminds me of the X27. I've wanted a hookeroon/pickeroon for a while and this one definitely fits the bill.
Found this online while looking for log tongs and other hauling equipment. Does anyone know if they're available stateside? I sent an email straight to Fiskars, but I'm not putting much faith in a response.
Reminds me of the X27. I've wanted a hookeroon/pickeroon for a while and this one definitely fits the bill.
5
Equipment / Log Splitter Advice
« on: May 10, 2016, 03:28:06 AM »
Decided to take the dive and buy a gas log splitter... I've been perusing different splitters for a while, but I can't make a decision. Here are my concerns:
What tonnage is good? I'm looking around the 22-27 ton range.
What brand is the most durable?
Does brand really matter, or does the motor make the difference?
Does hydraulic tank capacity matter? Is bigger better?
What's a decent price? I'm looking to spend around $800-1500 from the looks of it.
What tonnage is good? I'm looking around the 22-27 ton range.
What brand is the most durable?
Does brand really matter, or does the motor make the difference?
Does hydraulic tank capacity matter? Is bigger better?
What's a decent price? I'm looking to spend around $800-1500 from the looks of it.
6
Equipment / PTO driven splitter?
« on: May 03, 2016, 08:59:21 PM »
Can anyone recommend a good PTO driven log splitter? I'd like to be able to do up to 20-24" length logs with around 22-27 tons of pressure. I'd be getting this as an alternative to a stand-along splitter... so it'd need to be cheaper or at least the same price as a comparable stand-alone in order for it to be a worthwhile purchase.
Currently, I split it all by hand with the Fiskars X-27, so it'd be hard to put that down for a cheap splitter; I need something that is more time effective.
PTO is driving by a Kubota L2501 if that helps for the selection process.
Currently, I split it all by hand with the Fiskars X-27, so it'd be hard to put that down for a cheap splitter; I need something that is more time effective.
PTO is driving by a Kubota L2501 if that helps for the selection process.
7
Central Boiler / 5036 Model; regarding ash.
« on: December 26, 2014, 10:17:20 PM »
This is my first season using my 5036. I don't really have a feel for the amount of ash I should expect. I've been burning just under 2 months so far.
After the first 30 days (+/-), I completely cleaned out all the ash per the manufacturer guideline.
It's been about 3 weeks since the full cleaning and I've got quite a build-up of ash again. Here for the last week, I've been regularly taking a few shovels full (enough to fill a small 3 gal metal pail every other day) out and that seems to be dwindling the pile down. I'd say a good portion of this ash is dust too - I rake the chunks of coals around and let them burn down.
Does this sound like a normal amount of ash? I'm burning decently seasoned wood; mostly maple, black cherry, locust, and a little white oak.
Also, is this a good practice? I have a decent coal bed and ashes under that still. I have noticed that the ash dust that I pull out retains a good amount of heat too. The metal pail I dispense into stays warm for a couple hours after I fill it; should I instead leave the ashes in the furnace?
After the first 30 days (+/-), I completely cleaned out all the ash per the manufacturer guideline.
It's been about 3 weeks since the full cleaning and I've got quite a build-up of ash again. Here for the last week, I've been regularly taking a few shovels full (enough to fill a small 3 gal metal pail every other day) out and that seems to be dwindling the pile down. I'd say a good portion of this ash is dust too - I rake the chunks of coals around and let them burn down.
Does this sound like a normal amount of ash? I'm burning decently seasoned wood; mostly maple, black cherry, locust, and a little white oak.
Also, is this a good practice? I have a decent coal bed and ashes under that still. I have noticed that the ash dust that I pull out retains a good amount of heat too. The metal pail I dispense into stays warm for a couple hours after I fill it; should I instead leave the ashes in the furnace?
8
Electronics / Need advice on t-stat wiring.
« on: November 24, 2014, 10:39:45 PM »
Hi all,
I've had my boiler up and running for a little over a week now. The system is functioning beautifully with only 1 minor set back. The first time my secondary thermostat called for heat, it also turned my A/C on. Any quick ideas on how to rectify?
I have the basic double thermostat set-up for an existing forced air unit using the guide CentralBoiler has on their website. I've been working 12 hours since the install and haven't had much time to troubleshoot... any advice would be appreciated so I can get it done sooner rather than later. Currently, I have the breaker disconnected for the A/C unit - that was my quick-fix.
I've had my boiler up and running for a little over a week now. The system is functioning beautifully with only 1 minor set back. The first time my secondary thermostat called for heat, it also turned my A/C on. Any quick ideas on how to rectify?
I have the basic double thermostat set-up for an existing forced air unit using the guide CentralBoiler has on their website. I've been working 12 hours since the install and haven't had much time to troubleshoot... any advice would be appreciated so I can get it done sooner rather than later. Currently, I have the breaker disconnected for the A/C unit - that was my quick-fix.
9
Plumbing / Tankless/On-demand DHW
« on: November 15, 2014, 07:14:06 PM »
Anyone using their boiler in conjunction with an on-demand water heater? I have my plumbed in and ready, I just haven't opened the bypass yet - I'm not sure how it will affect the tankless heater.
Reading on this site has led me to believe that I'll get about a 20 degree temp swing in the water to water plate HX. So, by that theory, my tankless heater will be getting feed water around 160-170 degrees (using CB5036 with set point at 185-190 degrees). Since my on-demand system is only set to heat up to 115 degrees, I theoretically shouldn't be using any electricity to heat my water... right? It should just flow through my tankless system and not require a second heating? This also means that my DHW will be coming out around ~160 degrees at the shower, sink, etc.
I understand I could put a mixing valve in to keep it closer to 145 degrees, but I think I would rather mitigate the hotter water by mixing cold in at the shower or using scald preventers. I think I like the idea of 160 degree water getting to the sink and dishwasher though.
So... to the point. Is my theorizing correct? Will I indeed be getting 160ish degree water after the HX? And, if so, will feeding 160 degree water into my tankless have any adverse effects on the tankless system's integrity?
Reading on this site has led me to believe that I'll get about a 20 degree temp swing in the water to water plate HX. So, by that theory, my tankless heater will be getting feed water around 160-170 degrees (using CB5036 with set point at 185-190 degrees). Since my on-demand system is only set to heat up to 115 degrees, I theoretically shouldn't be using any electricity to heat my water... right? It should just flow through my tankless system and not require a second heating? This also means that my DHW will be coming out around ~160 degrees at the shower, sink, etc.
I understand I could put a mixing valve in to keep it closer to 145 degrees, but I think I would rather mitigate the hotter water by mixing cold in at the shower or using scald preventers. I think I like the idea of 160 degree water getting to the sink and dishwasher though.
So... to the point. Is my theorizing correct? Will I indeed be getting 160ish degree water after the HX? And, if so, will feeding 160 degree water into my tankless have any adverse effects on the tankless system's integrity?
10
Central Boiler / Fittings kits
« on: October 27, 2014, 10:48:24 PM »
Is it a good idea to use Teflon tape on any/all of the threaded connections for the various fittings kits CB sells? I have a kit for hooking up the thermostatic valve and a kit for hooking up a plate HX. Should I use tape on the threads, or not?
11
Plumbing / Down flow furnace install ?
« on: October 25, 2014, 07:41:31 PM »
Hi, I'm new to the forum, but love all the discussion and topics available. I'm sure something regarding this question has already come up, but due to the countless pages of threads I'm unable to find an answer.
I have a modular home (the pre-fabricated kind) with a down-flow furnace. Inside my HVAC system, the fan sits on top. Directly below the fan is an enclosed space, roughly 16" from top to bottom and the width of my HVAC system. Under this is my furnace (it's gas), and directly under that is my a-coil. There is about 1.5" between the bottom of my furnace and my a-coil. Under the a-coil is my floor level, and under that my ducting branches out to the various rooms of the house.
I need to install my water-to-air exchanger somewhere in this system. The easiest way I can think of is to cut into the 16" deep "box" that sits under my fan. However, I'm not an expert in this matter and don't know if that box serves a purpose or it is just there as a cold air (or something like that) plenum. My other option is to lift the furnace up, by cutting the 16" box and putting the furnace closer to the fan, then installing the exchanger under the furnace and above the a-coil. A third option of installing the exchanger under the a-coil is out of the question; there is simply not enough space between my floor and the bottom of the a-coil. Furthermore, option 3 would require me to complete all steps necessary to accomplish option 2 and therefore be unnecessary. Also understand that option 2 would require me to reduce the size of the 16" space under my fan.
So, finally to the point - does anyone know or have first-hand experience in this regard?
NOTE: Manufacturer of my exchanger merely suggests that the unit be installed after the fan. My dealer suggested installing somewhere between the fan and the a-coil (hence option 1 and 2).
Please help. All suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.
I have a modular home (the pre-fabricated kind) with a down-flow furnace. Inside my HVAC system, the fan sits on top. Directly below the fan is an enclosed space, roughly 16" from top to bottom and the width of my HVAC system. Under this is my furnace (it's gas), and directly under that is my a-coil. There is about 1.5" between the bottom of my furnace and my a-coil. Under the a-coil is my floor level, and under that my ducting branches out to the various rooms of the house.
I need to install my water-to-air exchanger somewhere in this system. The easiest way I can think of is to cut into the 16" deep "box" that sits under my fan. However, I'm not an expert in this matter and don't know if that box serves a purpose or it is just there as a cold air (or something like that) plenum. My other option is to lift the furnace up, by cutting the 16" box and putting the furnace closer to the fan, then installing the exchanger under the furnace and above the a-coil. A third option of installing the exchanger under the a-coil is out of the question; there is simply not enough space between my floor and the bottom of the a-coil. Furthermore, option 3 would require me to complete all steps necessary to accomplish option 2 and therefore be unnecessary. Also understand that option 2 would require me to reduce the size of the 16" space under my fan.
So, finally to the point - does anyone know or have first-hand experience in this regard?
NOTE: Manufacturer of my exchanger merely suggests that the unit be installed after the fan. My dealer suggested installing somewhere between the fan and the a-coil (hence option 1 and 2).
Please help. All suggestions are welcomed and appreciated.
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