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1

Plumbing / Re: Piping question

« on: September 25, 2016, 04:22:09 PM »

well that is a great idea accept that unless im overthinking it I will have to have some sort of hose to fill with and ill be out there messing around in the freezing cold with a hose froze up. the way my system is setup there is a ball valve on the front of my stove and I turn it on until it comes out the overflow. pretty easy. if I tie the 1/2'' line to a 180* main line just above grade do you think enough heat will transfer to keep it from freezing as it comes up at the back of the stove?

2

Plumbing / plumbing in a kickplate heater

« on: September 25, 2016, 04:17:44 PM »

I will be adding a kick plate heater in my kitchen and hoping for some advice. It gets a little colder in that part of the house and I just want something to help out a bit. I can tee off my main heat loop which runs right below kitchen floor. I would have to run like 10' total of pipe or less from main loop back. I noticed they make a venturi tube that could be used. I assume these restrict main loop. so to do it right I assume I need to tee in to main line and return tee within 18''? I could add a small circulator and put a line voltage thermostat controlling the little circulator? I have read to install a purge tee and ball valve? could someone walk me through how this should be done. Im in the process of re doing my setup and would like to add this in while my system is drained and down. also the heater I am looking at accepts 1/2'' I believe. so whats the best way to reduce down if I use the circulator? Thanks a lot 

3

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / hanging heater size

« on: September 25, 2016, 12:19:07 PM »

I have been trying to size the heater for my garage and getting mixed answers. My shop is built on the side of my big barn. It is 18x40 and insulated fairly well on the walls. The ceiling is 12' with open rafters and aluminum backed foam under the tin. so the ceiling isn't the greatest for insulation. 10x10 overhead door insulated. The temps I would heat it down to would be about 10 outside and would like to get it about 60 inside. Normally any hotter and I cant work. Most of the time I just want to keep it above freezing like 50. Right now I have a hot blast indoor forced air stove in there and it will burn the paint off the walls. A small salamander will heat it up in 30 minutes easily from 20 to t shirt. SO the best I can see a 50k btu hanging heater to my stove should get me by? What do you guys think before I pull the trigger

4

Plumbing / Re: Piping question

« on: September 25, 2016, 08:59:21 AM »

I like my setup I have now. I have to fill from outside because that's where my over flow is. On the earth rancher there is a 90 degree elbow turned up and when it bubbles up its full. SO any thing done remotely would be a guess and I like to know that it stays full. I could do it with a solenoid electrically with a remote pushbutton but I like just having the water out there as the stove was designed to do. simple and easy and nothing mechanical to fail. thanks for the ideas but I am really wanting to stay the same. I just need to figure out how to run the line without it freezing in the back of the stove where it stubs up. as I said before the line is premade into my existing underground so it never freezes. Now with the thermopex it will have to be ran on the outside of it I guess.

5

Plumbing / Piping question

« on: September 24, 2016, 07:33:04 PM »

Hey all, I'm finally making the switch to thermopex before winter. I have found a local dealer that will cut it to length for $11.00/ft. That is the most reasonable I've found so far. Any way my question is my current setup has a 1/2" pex for fill water. I am worried it may freeze where I stub it out of the ground. My plan is to run it next to the thermopex and just above ground tape it to a warm line and insulate it to below grade. Anyone have Any ideas? I realize I could probably order it with my line in it but not for this price. What are guys doing here with your fill lines. Thanks

6

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heating my kitchen floor??

« on: January 09, 2016, 08:17:05 AM »

What circulator do you recommend for this loop. I'd say we would only be talking less than 100' loop. Also I have a wilo star 32f main circulator. When looking up specs it is very close to taco 007. I was going to use this for my shop in the future but could use it here maybe? Currently I have about a 30* delta t when furnace is running. If water heater is being used it's worse yet. In the back of my stove it does build slight mousture where bottom and back meet. I make sure everyday to shovel this to keep ash from sticking but I'm sure it's from a high delta t. What is a good recommendation here? Thanks

7

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heating my kitchen floor??

« on: January 07, 2016, 03:22:10 PM »

Edit. I said crawl space. I meant cellar which is the under the kitchen. So this should be very easy to tee into. Just wondering what is your opinion slimjim. Thanks

8

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heating my kitchen floor??

« on: January 07, 2016, 03:19:48 PM »

Cool deal. My 1" pex loop is in the middle of my crawl space. How would you hook this up? I am currently slightly undersized with my circulator so I will need to upgrade. But for now let's talk plumbing. Thanks

9

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Keeping your battery ready

« on: January 06, 2016, 06:38:38 PM »

How cold are we talking? I have installed a lot of standby generators and some have a little pouch that the battery sit in with a little heat blanket in the bottom, this would be additional to the battery tender. There not that much and you could wire both with the same cord if you wanted. It would have to be pretty darn cold before this would really be worth it imo

10

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Heating my kitchen floor??

« on: January 06, 2016, 06:32:34 PM »

Slim Jim, I looked up the ultra fin. Looks nice. If your joists are on 12" centers can you get away with 1 pass inbetween joists? Looked like the website showed it. Most I've seen run pex closer together. I guess the way the aluminum find spread hear it works good that way,ah?

11

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Heating my kitchen floor??

« on: January 05, 2016, 05:46:18 PM »

Hey all. Another question. My kitchen is relatively small. Guessing 10x12 floor space inside cabinets with a table in the middle. I have a vent in ceiling but the floor stays cold in the winter. This is because I have a cellar below it. While I've made big changes to the insulation and cellar door it has made a big difference but still not happy with it. My boiler loop goes through my cellar so it would be easy to do something. Should I tear all the insulation out of floor and put in radiant heat, or put in a toe kick heater under the cabinet blowing across the floor? I'm guessing radiant would be my best and most efficient bet. I am concerned once the oven gets turned on and the room gets warmer that my wife might get too hot and melt. Lol. What would you guys do here?

12

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / garage heat loop

« on: January 04, 2016, 09:41:58 AM »

While I am pondering what to do about my underground lines next summer while I dig in new I would like to add a heat loop to my garage. I would have to dig about 50' and I could dig it up through the edge of the slab and make a chase for it to run up the wall into my rafters to a wta heat exchanger I am wondering what would be my best way? I would like to be able have a separate pump and loop that I could have a line voltage thermostat turn on the fan and pump. I would not use this that much so i have concerns about freezing while not in use. I guess I am thinking if not in use why have water circulate through loop and loose heat? What are some options? I do not run glycol currently in my system. Sometimes it would be nice to leave shop 50* and sometimes 70*. For the most part if I don't have a project going on I just don't need to heat it. Thanks

13

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: spray foam

« on: January 02, 2016, 11:56:43 AM »

thanks slim jim, My original question had to do with using 6'' sdr pipe. IF a person primed and glued 20' sticks and pressure tested this before backfilling why would you think this would fail? I am just curious. I considered doing closed cell foam around conduit also as a sealer and an insulator. Also no one has offered any prices for logstor or comparable to me. again I cannot find this locally. They all have the same as I used previously and that isn't happening again. I would just like a ballpark price to compare.Thanks guys

14

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: spray foam

« on: January 01, 2016, 08:59:14 AM »

slim jim, can you elaborate a bit. How do I obtain this? And what about size of the underground pipe?

15

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: spray foam

« on: January 01, 2016, 07:16:07 AM »

My pipes now go into a crawl space at my house. I have cut the pipe and drained it. You can tell when we get a bunch of rain that my wood consumption goes up. After it dries up my heat loss is minimal. I have a gauge when it enters house and I don't lose but maybe a degree or two in 130' underground. SO since everyone is insisting logstor or thermopex, I cant find any locally. So can someone give me some prices shipped to a business in Sullivan Mo. Its like 120' so about 130' or so. I can change over the 20' in crawl space before it pops up to furnace. If the distance wasn't too far I would consider taking a road trip. Lets talk about my sizing. Currently I have 140' to furnace where it pops up into house. I have pex running through house another 25-30' to a dhw plate exchanger then it returns another 25-30' to the furnace heat exchanger, before finally making its way back down into crawl space and to the stove. So its roughly 340' ish through all 1'' line. There are 2 90* fittings at water heater. IF I add on to house I will have to have a separate heat exchanger that will be further yet, for a smaller furnace covering 900 sq ft more. can I do all of this with 1 loop? How big of pex? can I buy bigger pex now planning for future? What if I don't build will this big pipe hurt my efficiency? And finally a question I have been wanting to ask since I have described my system is pump size. I currently have a wilo star 32f I believe is the pump. I have noticed since I have a inline gauge where line enters house and after heat exchanger I lose around 25*+/- when furnace is running. Which makes me think my pump is undersized. Lots of questions