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Messages - NewToIt

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31
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Mechanical wood splitters
« on: November 30, 2011, 08:25:40 AM »
How about this one..... talk about not being able to stop it..... geez!

wood splitter log splitter John Deere 14T hay baler splitting fast

32
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Mechanical wood splitters
« on: November 30, 2011, 08:17:30 AM »
Here is one that's been around for a long time.....

http://www.supersplit.com/video1.htm

33
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Inside furnace temperature - Oven?
« on: November 16, 2011, 07:53:38 AM »
I've wrapped some potatoes, onions, cubed venison and butter in a foil pouch and threw in my OWB.  15 - 20 minutes later, buddies and I were enjoying some good eats..... and a couple cold ones of course.  Just make sure you place it off to the side so it's not directly if front of blower were it gets really hot.  Works great.

34
I believe that for a time, Outdoor Heating Systems, Inc. (aka Wood Doctor), had a stainless line of stoves that were made by Global Hydronics, that they sold under the name of Pacific Western.  There were a lot of issues with these Pacific Westerns, and Outside Heating Systems, Inc. (aka Wood Doctor) severed ties with the maker (Global Hydronics). The split happened several years ago.

I believe that to be mostly accurate.

35
Hi.  I've seen many on your posts on another site..... very knowledgeable!  It will be nice to have your input here as well.



36
Wood Doctor / Re: Any word on the Wood Doctor move?
« on: October 11, 2011, 08:19:08 AM »
I ordered a Wood Doctor factory direct a few years ago, and it was at my door within two weeks of when I was ready for it and put in my request for shipment....... but then again, they were not in the middle of a move.

For what it's worth, I have been very happy with the stove so far..... and keeping fingers crossed.

Good luck with your stove.

37
WoodMaster / Re: the smart heat baffle
« on: August 30, 2011, 08:26:00 AM »
A buddy of mine has a 4400 and had the same thing happen.  I know two things:  he had to crawl inside and he said it was nearly an impossible chore.  That is all I can remember right now, but if you want more details, I can give him a call.  Maybe knowing his mistakes can help you.

38
General Discussion / Re: propane prices
« on: May 19, 2011, 07:44:57 AM »
I'm in SE Michigan also.  I wish I could answer your question about propane prices, but I haven't bought any in 3 years!!!! ;D

39
Home Made / Re: Gasification wood boiler build
« on: May 16, 2011, 11:09:10 AM »
My apologies Turbo Burn..... I misread one of your posts.  It's no excuse, but I fully expected you to be the owner or affiliated with the company with the nature of some of your first posts..... then people started talking about "YOUR" website.....  I guess, in hindsight, I saw what I wanted to see and not what was really there!

Sorry again, and like I said earlier..... post away.  There is a lot of good and knowledgeable people here!

Mark

40
Home Made / Re: Gasification wood boiler build
« on: May 13, 2011, 08:13:59 AM »
Jackel.... sorry for the hijack, but I can't stand it when people do this..... so here goes......


Turbo burn...... When you post comments like this in another thread....

"I know there is alot of information out there.  I recommend the Turbo Burn stored energy system.  They are a company out of Washington State where they have banned outdoor burning.  They have a website www.turboburn.netThey have different sized units so depending on what you need they start fairly small to huge (actually installed in cargo containers)  They are heating towns in Alaska!!!"

.....using the word "they", then later admit that you are the owner of the company in this thread.... it tends to look a little shady, IMO.  It bugs me when people are seemingly hiding their true identity/agenda.


Other than that, post away.  I would love to learn more about your product, but didn't get much from your website.


Good day,

Mark
 

41
Wood Doctor / Re: Truth about Wood Doctor by president
« on: April 18, 2011, 07:50:23 AM »
Hi all.

I sent an email to Arthur last week about this "situation", and he was nice enough to personally respond rather quickly to me.  He told me that same thing that is in his post above.  I was waiting to see if he would come on here to clear things up himself, before I forwarded the info to all of you.

So, Arthur, I'm glad you found the time to say it to this community, so I didn't have to.......  only because it's always better to hear it first-hand.

Mark W.


42
Hi.

Don't have first hand experience with CB units, but I know from researching that CB has been having a boat-load of problems with their gasification unit (e classic 2300).... from faulty fusion chambers.... to leaks....  to air holes getting plugged, etc.  See:  http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/board,80.0.html   for some people's first hand experience with them.

I believe that their newer(e classic 2400) model has a lot of these problems resolved.

As far as the old school boilers are concerned, I have heard good things about them.

43
Equipment / Re: screw cone splitter
« on: April 08, 2011, 08:11:12 AM »
How about this one....   http://www.thestickler.com/articlee333.html?id=5833

Don't even know what to think/say about it, other than you can drive your splitter to/from the woods, then out to dinner and a movie later in the evening!

44
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: smoke roll out
« on: January 26, 2011, 12:24:54 PM »
Hi.  I think this happens on most all stoves.... even after you slide the rod out.  To combat this a little, I leave my door cracked about an inch or so, in order for it to draw a draft.  This will empty the fire box of a lot of the smoke (out the chimney, not the door).  And, if you leave it cracked long enough where the fire comes back to life a little, there will also be less smoke pouring out the door.

45
Central Boiler / Re: New CB 6048
« on: December 15, 2010, 06:38:19 AM »
As far as the build up of coals, this is what I have found to work best for me..... I put just enough wood in to last until the next time I can fill it (12 to 24 hrs, depending on outside temps), then pull the coals forward before throwing fresh logs to the back.  The coals will reduce to a fine powder ash during the next burn cycle, then the wood in the back takes over.  This allows me to get the most BTU's from the wood as possible, rather than emptying unburnt coals from the stove to make more room.  There is a learning curve with all stoves, and thankfully, having a slightly over-sized stove allows me to use this method.

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