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[ptt811]

I am still confused on the boiler chemical treatment. I use a chemical called NU-CAL B-20 , Reading here on this site I need to get some test strips and if I understand correct the Nitrite level should be between 600 and 1200 PPM    Is this right   and if this is right there is no need to check the Ph Level ??

Where can you buy these test strips ??
Any input will be greatly appreciated.

[martyinmi]

You need to get a hold of your manufacturer and see what they recommend. My boiler is a Portage and Main, and they want my ph between 9.5 and 11, which moves the nitrate level between 1300 and 1900 ppm. This appears to be higher than a lot of company's, but they've been in business since the early 70's, so they are doing something that's working for them.

[ptt811]

So does this mean you can just check the Ph   If that equals the appropriate Nitrite level

[beeman]

i have soft water ran in mine from a water softner  but i had an old timer tell me to put a little vegtable oil into the water that it would make the water flow better and the pump ... has eny body heard  this  i dont think i would try on my own

[RSI]

Is this the stuff you are using? http://www.nucalgon.com/products/boiler_csw_tylonB20.htm

[martyinmi]

So does this mean you can just check the Ph   If that equals the appropriate Nitrite level

One of the OWB dealers ought to be able to easily answer that one. My local dealer says that for the most part the nitrite levels do go up along with the ph- but, some water can contain some exotic components that can throw those ratios way off. Even though it may seem redundant to check both the ph and nitrites, he stresses that you should always check both. He has actually had to have water brought in to a customers home to fill the OWB because the well water's sulfide or sulfate was a bit too high.(It's been a few years since I've had that conversation, so don't quote me on it. At a few months shy of 50, my memory is just one thing on a list of many that are slipping a bit!) I'd do what your manufacturer says and document it in the event you have any future corrosion issues.

[Ridgekid]

Since we are on the subject, and it reminded me to test mine, should the samples be allowed to cool before testing?

CB gives us our own test kits. This posted reminded me to check mine. PH was 8.5 (normal) but my nitrate level is up to 34 drops. (normal is 20-30 drops). It says that the water should be partially drained and fresh water added. (Not to be performed with a hot firebox).

I performed the test while the sample was hot, just wanted to know if it would make a difference.

Thanks~

[martyinmi]

Since we are on the subject, and it reminded me to test mine, should the samples be allowed to cool before testing?

CB gives us our own test kits. This posted reminded me to check mine. PH was 8.5 (normal) but my nitrate level is up to 34 drops. (normal is 20-30 drops). It says that the water should be partially drained and fresh water added. (Not to be performed with a hot firebox).

I performed the test while the sample was hot, just wanted to know if it would make a difference.

Thanks~

What temperature was your Ceric Sulfate solution when you did your titration? That stuff has the consistency of Iodine, and when it's cold, the droplets are bigger, smaller when it's warmer. My kit does not say whether it makes a difference if the boiler water is hot or not, but it does tell me to use at room temperature(55*-85*). According to my chart, your nitrite level is only around 1700 ppm, and you shouldn't have to worry about diluting until it gets up to 2500 ppm. As always, though, you need to do what ever CB recommends for the dragon!

[ptt811]

RSI....Yes that is the stuff. My buddy bought a Boiler a year ago and i just bought the same brand. This is what he says he uses but he doesn't test it. He just added the manufactures recommended amount.

[Ridgekid]

Marty- It was store at room temperature, so that's not an issue. Can you link me up with that chart? All I can do is count droplets. Like to see where 1700 PPM comes from. Also what is normal PPM range?

[martyinmi]

The product we use is made by Certified Laboratories. The name of the product is "Wood Burning Furnace Water Treatment". Their telephone # is: 1-800-527-9929.
   To figure out what the nitrite level is, you multiply your number of drops required to change your sample color by 50. In your case it would be: 34x50=1700 ppm.
   My chart says:
1000 ppm= ideal- No treatment necessary
1050 ppm to 2500 ppm= More than needed but no adverse effect
Greater than 2500 ppm= Recommend Drain Some and Refill With Water

   When I drained my Empyre this summer after this product being used for a year, I had no rust what so ever come out. There were some small pieces of welding spatter that came out, but they did not have any rust on them. I've used this product for 4 years now and I am very happy with it.

   I pay $75/gallon for this treatment.

[Scott7m]

Hey Marty, this is the same treatment that heatmaster includes with there furnaces.  It seems to be like a great product as I've heard many stories like yours.

I've not tested my water this year, maybe a good thing to do on this rainy night.

[Scott7m]

Just got my test completed and it took 45 drops, that should be about 2250ppm.

Looks like I'm in good shape!

[Ridgekid]

Marty-Thank You very much!