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Messages - Ryan

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Plumbing / how to get air out of radiant in floor heat
« on: February 06, 2015, 09:14:37 AM »
How do bleed the air out of in floor heating?

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Plumbing / What Gauges should I get
« on: January 06, 2015, 09:25:10 AM »
In my previous topic regarding "temperature problems-delta t issues" it sounds like i need to get some gauges to put accurate numbers and troubleshoot correctly.  I dont know why the previous home owner skimped on this part.  What type of gauges should i get and where should i strategically place them? Digital, type with the thermowell, strap on style, ect? Should i put two on the back of the boiler (supply and return) two where it enters the house (supply and return) and two on the house side of the flat plate heat exchanger (supply and return)? Where is the best place to purchase them? thanks

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Plumbing / Re: Temperature Problems-Delta T Issues
« on: January 05, 2015, 10:00:32 AM »
The piping is buried underground well and fairly new well insulated pex.  I have no snow melt around where the pipe is buried. I have never flushed the heat exchanger it is about 4 years old. The B&G pump is probably at least 8-10 years old, do they get weaker the older the get? I moved to the house in 2008 and replaced the pipe with triple insulated pex in corrugated tubing in 2011, i also put the new 50 plate exchanger in at the same time.  The previous owner had a 20 plate there. I would assume the pump was used prior to 2008 for a couple of years but not for sure. As far as past years go I am not completely sure. I think I was burning alot of propane in previous years.

4
Plumbing / Temperature Problems-Delta T Issues
« on: January 05, 2015, 09:23:13 AM »
Hello everyone.  I am having problems with figuring out if my system is working correctly.  My outdoor wood boiler temp is set to approx 180-185 degrees and the gauge if correct never drops below 170.  My run from wood boiler to house is 160 ft and is 1 inch pex that is approx 4 years old.  Coming into the house the water is hot to where you cannot hold the pipe.  I have a 50 plate heat exchanger.  The pump from wood boiler to house is a B&G PL-36 the runs 24-7.  In the house I have a gas fired boiler with the gas turned off.  I have a wraparound pump that runs 24-7 to keep the gas boiler warm, that pump is a Taco 007-F5.  From there I have two zones, a baseboard hot water on the main level. Main level is 2000 sq ft with 16 baseboard units, each unit is approx 4 ft long. My second zone is my basement zone with radiant in floor 2000 sq ft.  I keep the mixing valve set low about 85 to keep from drawing the hot water supply down and just the keep the water moving all the time.  Both Zones run constantly and my gas boiler sensor reads under that load the water temp moving through the gas boiler is 118-122 degrees.  Under no load the water temp moving through the gas boiler is 150-160 degrees.  My domestic hot water zone is on priority so when i have a call for hot water it will turn the two zone pumps off and run the domestic zone only.  It takes about 45-60 minutes to satisfy my 53 gallon storage tank which is set at 115 degrees.  Under the domestic load gas boiler sensor reads 118-122 degrees.  My main level baseboard zone is pushed with a taco 007-f5 pump, basement in floor with a grundfos 15-58 3 speed, and domestic hot water with a taco 007-f5. Does this all seem right?  I wish i had temp gauges installed but i dont, I tried measuring temp with a heat gun and i am getting readings all over the place.  If the water coming in is 180 degrees, what should be going back? What should the supply and return temps be on the house side of the exchanger? Are my pumps the correct size? I took the heat gun readings on the same material at the 50 plate heat exchanger, the reading are: Wood boiler side supply 180, return 125. House side supply 145, return 120. I also took some reading on my baseboard zone same material supply 140-145 return 125-130. Any ideas or suggestions would be great! Thank you and sorry for the long story.

5
Plumbing / Basement heating-radiant or water to air exchanger?
« on: December 28, 2014, 03:00:04 PM »
Hello everyone. I have a 2000 sq ft basement and it currently has in floor heat it seems the circ never shuts off and it really never gets overly warm down there. I have been thinking about putting in a water to air heat exchanger and just plumbing into the return line back to wood boiler. I would then run some duct work through the drop ceiling. I am just looking to heat the basement when we have a get together or when kids are playing down there. I would hope it would also burn less wood this way also, any thoughts?

6
New user here. I have a three zone heating system (1-baseboard hot water main floor, 2-domestic hot water zone, 3-basement in slab in floor heat zone) My baseboard main floor and domestic hot water zones work great but when I turn the basement in floor heat on it draws a ton of heat which i can expect but returns the water quite cold to the supply. This forces to cool my water dramatically doesnt heat any zone very well. The in floor heat does have a honeywell mixing valve, should it be set as high as it can go or cooler and just let it slowly work? My wood boiler is set to 180 degrees and i have a 50 plate flate plate exchanger being pumped to the house with a bell and gosset pl-36.


My second question is regarding heating another building. My outdoor wood boiler is right next to my workshop approx 10 ft away. It has two supply and two return ports on the back of the stove. I have one set going to my shop and the other to the house. In my shop the previous owner installed a small forced air heat exchanger with a blower. It also has a bell and gossett pl-36, is that pump overkill? Would a taco 007-f5 suffice? I have never turned it but would like to, would it need to continuosly run when not in use? I would just like to turn it on when working occassionaly out there and turn it off when not to save on electric and wood use. It is a short distance 10 feet and the pex is insulated well and buried deep.

Thanks for the input!

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