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[Ridgekid]

That's a sweet mod and should help some folks around here since it included pics (I could see!)

Thanks for sharing!

[Bull]

I didn't see a way to shut off the air on that, did I miss it?

[Ridgekid]

From what I saw and read, there is a flapper in the end of the pipe weighted with a small bolt to help keep it closed when it's off, but not too heavy to allow it to open when the fan comes on.

[jimr]

i have been using a draft control on my shaver like this ,on the 2nd season now, and it works great. and no solenoid to mess with. mine is made of 4in. pvc with 45* turn down with a tin flapper inside it's self, soldered to a 1/8th piece of rod that is completely through the 4". i have this glued to the intake side of the blower . when the blower kicks on the suction opens the flapper wide open,and when the blower shuts down the flapper closes.. very simple, and very simple to make. by using a tin can lid for the flapper i was able to attach a small magnet to the bottom edge of the flapper it to get it to pivot closed fast. with the right weight on it, it stays shut ,even on the windiest of days.

[lugnut]

For natural draft you will need to have a taller insulated chimney. I haven't been following your posts so I don't know what all problems you are having, but if it helps at all there was a thread about 50 pages long over on arboristsite.com named "shaver improvement thread". Seems like a lot of guys had trouble regulating the water temp and blower/damper issues. Most seemed happy after some home made mods, good luck!

Mr. Woodperson....I'm "only" up to page 28 on that site and I HAVE earned a bunch.  Here's the situation, when I got this 250 Shaver, the invoice read that I had a 75 cfm with auto damper.  Well I had the 50 cfm with manual damper.  As I got to thinking this afternoon, the 50 cfm blower had the "manual slide" plate.  Shaver's thought son this was so that if one wanted to tinker with burn times, one could do so with this type of damper.  So me gets to thinking...folks be sayin' that we shouldn't be messing with the damper as far as how far it is open and we don't want it closed...if this is the case, why was there a "slide damper" on the 50 cfm?  Why was it not just WOT? 

Seems to me....that I could "preserve" wood if the damper OR Positive closure were adjustable down to 1/4- 3/8" open.  If this is NOT supposed to be right....what's up then wit da 50 cfm wit da slide damper?

Why doesn't Shaver cover this better than they do, which is NAUGHT?!!   

Lugnut

[lugnut]

Burn baby burn.......so please tell me how you guys know just how many burns you get in a 12 hour time frame?  Do you camp outside along the wood burner?  Inquiring mind...NOT minds, my mind would like to know.  If I have to camp outside, that means I would have to remain awake, which will be difficult since the temps will be nice and cool, but if I don't remain awake, I might freeze to death and then I won't have to worry how many burn times/cycles the unit went through.

I will be back later.  Have jazz band rehearsal to attend to now.  Looking forward to reading some more.  I sincerely thank you for the education I'm getting.

Lugnut
aka: Jerry

[Treewinder]

HI Jerry,

Can you post another picture (of your blower configuration.)  I have the 75CFM w/solonoid and have not had any issues with mine, (maybe just lucky on my end).  I have read all the threads going back to 2008 on all the forums I could find prior to buying.  Many guys made their own damper/blower modifications from everything from coffee cans to dryer vents, this was prior to them adding a solonoid as an option from Shaver.

 

Ed

[Treewinder]

Burn baby burn.......so please tell me how you guys know just how many burns you get in a 12 hour time frame?  Do you camp outside along the wood burner?  Inquiring mind...NOT minds, my mind would like to know.  If I have to camp outside, that means I would have to remain awake, which will be difficult since the temps will be nice and cool, but if I don't remain awake, I might freeze to death and then I won't have to worry how many burn times/cycles the unit went through.

I will be back later.  Have jazz band rehearsal to attend to now.  Looking forward to reading some more.  I sincerely thank you for the education I'm getting.

Lugnut
aka: Jerry

Don't care about burn cyles of the OWB, just that it last 12 hours before re-loading.  Don't freeze and have a nice time at the rehearsal

[RSI]

Burn baby burn.......so please tell me how you guys know just how many burns you get in a 12 hour time frame?  Do you camp outside along the wood burner?  Inquiring mind...NOT minds, my mind would like to know.  If I have to camp outside, that means I would have to remain awake, which will be difficult since the temps will be nice and cool, but if I don't remain awake, I might freeze to death and then I won't have to worry how many burn times/cycles the unit went through.

I will be back later.  Have jazz band rehearsal to attend to now.  Looking forward to reading some more.  I sincerely thank you for the education I'm getting.

Lugnut
aka: Jerry

I just look here to see mine http://rsiboilers.com/temp.htm

[RSI]

Or here http://rsi.dyndns-home.com:8000/last.htm 

[tinner]

[/quote]

tinner...guess that means you'll be coming up in the "warmer" months eh?  LOL!!
[/quote]

naw, you'll get it. 

[Ridgekid]

I get a email every time a burn cycle starts:

Http://ridgekid.dyndns.org:8080/index.html

You shaver owners live in the stone age or what? Actually just installed it a few weeks ago.  Thought you guys were following the thread in central boiler forum.

[woodman]

For natural draft you will need to have a taller insulated chimney. I haven't been following your posts so I don't know what all problems you are having, but if it helps at all there was a thread about 50 pages long over on arboristsite.com named "shaver improvement thread". Seems like a lot of guys had trouble regulating the water temp and blower/damper issues. Most seemed happy after some home made mods, good luck!

Mr. Woodperson....I'm "only" up to page 28 on that site and I HAVE earned a bunch.  Here's the situation, when I got this 250 Shaver, the invoice read that I had a 75 cfm with auto damper.  Well I had the 50 cfm with manual damper.  As I got to thinking this afternoon, the 50 cfm blower had the "manual slide" plate.  Shaver's thought son this was so that if one wanted to tinker with burn times, one could do so with this type of damper.  So me gets to thinking...folks be sayin' that we shouldn't be messing with the damper as far as how far it is open and we don't want it closed...if this is the case, why was there a "slide damper" on the 50 cfm?  Why was it not just WOT? 

Seems to me....that I could "preserve" wood if the damper OR Positive closure were adjustable down to 1/4- 3/8" open.  If this is NOT supposed to be right....what's up then wit da 50 cfm wit da slide damper?

Why doesn't Shaver cover this better than they do, which is NAUGHT?!!   

Lugnut

I guess I still don't understand what you are having trouble with. Are you getting too much draft or not enough? If it helps at all my fan is rated at 150cfm. It has a adjustable restricter plate on the discharge side of the fan. I have it closed about 2/3 of the way down. All I did was watch the smoke from my chimney and went with a compromise of a few minutes of smoke at start up then mostly a clean burn during the rest of the cycle. If I give it more air it comes up to temp a little faster but seems to send more heat heat out the stack. If I restrict it more it smokes almost the entire time and takes a long time to get the water up to temp. I have no cresolt issues and no trouble with 12-16 hour burn times.   

[Bull]

Your link is not working Ridge

[RSI]

Your link is not working Ridge

After you click his link remove everything before ridge