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[horse62049]

Has anyone replaced the caulk on the door yet if so what kind of caulk is best to use and how did you go about doing it noticed mine is leaking any good thoughts on this. Is it best to shout the door all the way after caulking it or leave it open just a little. thanks for any help.   

[gandgracing]

High temp silicone in a caulking tube at Menards is what I used. It's black. I put a couple thick beads all the way around the door and let it set up for a few minutes. Then I put wax paper over it and shut the door a little but not all the way to just get a form of the stove opening. Then opened the door and let it dry. Peeled the paper off afterwards. It didn't come off that great but it eventually burns away.

[jackel440]

I believe we had some high temp caulk that we got from Napa that we used on some burner tubes in the factory I work at.Been a while  but it was good stuff.I would make sure you get all the old dug out ,and maybe run a wire brush down the groove really good to get all the old out.

[Russ Brumit]

I talked to Shaver about this . They said to use regular silicone because it holds up better than the high temp stuff.

[vsskctcm88]

can u replace the caulk with fire door rope

[mikenc]

If you can replace with rope gasket, and forget the caulk. I Have rope on mine, not a shaver but suppose to be a copy of a shaver from what I hear.( Natures Comfort)

[brink1963]

Hello,
I am new to the site (just registered). I recently installed a Shaver 165 and from the start the fire box door was leaking so I placed a thin washer between the door latch and the catch on the OWB housing. The washer seemed to work but I was thinking about drilling and taping a hole on the catch, and inserting a bolt so I could adjust the preasure on the door as needed to tighten the door seal as needed. Has anyone tried that? I had done some of the suggested mods to the furnace before I started using it, but I was wondering about the over flow tube mod. What does it do and how is it installed? When I first started the furnace two weeks ago the outside temp was in the 30* range but the last few days it was warm but I kept the furnace going because of DHW I now notice a lot of moisture pours out when I open the fire box door(black liquid), will this stop when the furnace cycles more frequently?

I purchased the furnace from Greg Steinacher in Jerseyville, IL. Greg did a good job in advising me of some of the needed mods and with following up after the sale.

I heat two seperate zones in my house and the dhw.

[Windwalker7]

Instead of drilling a hole for the washer, just use some silicone as if it were glue and glue/silicone the washer in place. It can be removed with a knife if you need to.

the black liquid is normal and is from condensation. It will go away after a while. I get it every year when i fire up the boiler.

I heard that Shaver changed the overflow tube/vent. I am not sure if this is true though. My shaver is 4 years ols and the tube/vent comes out of the side near the refill valve.

Anyway......

The over flow tube as it comes with the furnace allows the whole surface of the water in the water jacket to be exposed to the air. This allows more water to evaporate.

If you put an 90*elbow on the tube and add some more water, then only that little bit of water surface inside the elbow is exposed to the air. Much, much less evaporation.

Here is how I did mine. I got a 3 inch piece of 1" pex and slid over the overflow tube. I then got a semi clear plastic 90* elbow from Tractor Supply and put in the end of the pex. I secure with two hose clamps and put silicone (for plastic) and put around joints to prevent leaks.

 I can now see my water level inside the elbow. I added seveal more gallons of water and raised the water level to where it is slightly higher then the top of the factory vent tube.

[lugnut]

Mike,

How's that rope gasket working out for you?  My Shaver 250 will be burning now come three weeks Nov ember 18th...this Friday.  The firebox and ash door were fine, but now there are whiffs of smoke leaking from the doors.  I adjusted the both on the firebox door and one can only tighten it too much.  Seems to me that the silicone caulk is crushed.  I did not tighten the bolt down unitl just last week when it began whiffing.

My furnace has been running non-stop since October 28th and I really can't open the door and leave it open due to the animals wandering the woods here not to mention it's a bit of a fir hazard being here in the woods.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Lugnut

[lugnut]

I just received an email to Donald Burge at Shaver regarding the whiffing of smoke at the doors:

Don,

I haven't messed with the auto damper yet...will do so on Wednesday.  However I have another question for you to ponder or ask your supervisor.  My firebox and ash door are whiffing smoke.  Both are tight, but IO'm still having air leakage around them.  I adjusted the bolt on the firebox door, yet I still have air leakage.  Any thoughts on how I can rectify this?  The furnace is too hot now and has been to put more silicone on the door and I can NOT leave the door open for any period of time because of the area animals wandering the area of my home, not to mention that it would be a bad fire hazard.

So I'm open to suggestions and ones that will rectify my issues here.



Here is his response:

Please check youre stove flue then youre ash pan. And then fire grates hope this wors for you
 
Donald Burge
Weld-Rite Inc./Shaver Furnace
1.855.895.3111 ext. 207
Fax : 1.870.895.3105
Donald@weldriteinc.com

So I inquired what in the world would the chimney have anything to do with it...the chimney is clear as there is smoke coming out of it and the ash pan is clean.  What would the fire grates have anything to do with this?   

Lugnut

[mober]

if your chimney is partially blocked and needs cleaning it will blow smoke from the door

[lugnut]

Mober....thank you.  I've let the fire burn down and out today so I could check this.  It's warm today anyway....still need the heat for the DWH, but that can wait.  I need to get this air leak thingy nipped in the bud.  Thanks again.  Have to measure the size of the chimney and go buy a brush.

I apologize for all the comments and questions, but I'm STILL in the LEARNING process.  Hope that next year I can be one of the responders to questions and not just the questioner.

Lugnut

[R W Ohio]

Questions, that is how we learn!

[Scott7m]

I think a lot of this shows the importance of choosing a good dealer.   That's for those who didn't buy direct of course. 


If ur chimney is clogged that could happen, but from what I've seen when that happens the stove won't come up to temp like it should and the fan kinda blows back out because it can't go in.  Hoping you get it all worked out.  I'd check to see if the door is starting to warp too, heard several stories of warped doors not fitting on shavers

[lugnut]

Questions, that is how we learn!

Yes sir you are most correct, but I don't want to seem like a burden as many of my questions may have already been asked.  Is there an archives on this site and how far back does it venture?

Maybe there should be a page for "most frequently asked questions."  J    Just thinking out loud here. 

So read below for my next new (to me) couple of questions.

Jerry