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Messages - clydem

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1
First of all thanks for all who have replied...   Having worked in a power plant  I understand how having pre-heated combustion air would raise the  efficiency of the boiler,  I just haven't figured how to capture wast heat from the chimney & pipe it to the draft intake.  Any ideas?

One of these days I'll have to quit overthinking this stuff.

thanks again  & Keep Warm
Clyde

2
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Shorter burn times per load question
« on: January 05, 2018, 10:49:38 PM »
Is anyone in Michigan experiencing short burn times per load?

 For the last 2-1/2 weeks overnight temps average +5 to -22  daytime ave +15* to +20*
This is the first time in 8 winters I have went from 12hr burn times to 8 hours between loads. I have my CB5036 temp set @185* and my monitor system emails me if the water temp hits 168*.   
Is it just the low temps & the higher home heat load causing the 30% drop in burn times?  :bash:   What do you think?


Water level ok
door gasket new in Oct 17
well seasoned ash, oak & maple
damper clean & working fine


3
Central Boiler / Re: Overheating problem
« on: March 27, 2017, 08:39:36 PM »
My neighbor had a similar over temp problem in high winds, he did not have a chimney cap on a 3 section chimney.  He added a chimney cap and has not had the problem since.  he also replaced the door gasket before the heating season.

4
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: over temp creep up
« on: February 05, 2017, 02:35:48 PM »
I have a X-300 temp monitor system and I know there is a 6/7* temp difference in the log from actual water temp.  The digital readout on the boiler increases 10/15* above the set point after the damper closes, this temp matches the actual temp from the dial temp gauge installed above the circ pump.  I realize this varies slightly with outdoor air temp.
A while back after the boilover someone from another site recommended I add a 1/2 ounce magnet to the outside bottom edge of the damper to make sure it does not stick open. This was done and works fine.

5
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: over temp creep up
« on: February 05, 2017, 11:56:12 AM »
Is the damper and solenoid operating smoothly? Maybe creosote build up on the damper keeping it from fully closing?

Thanks for the reply,

I checked that first.  I replaced both the damper & solenoid this fall before heating season.
if the damper leaked the boiler would overfire. 
The boiler is 11yrs old and I think the problem might be with the calibration of the aquastat or the thermocouple.

6
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / over temp creep up
« on: February 05, 2017, 09:54:26 AM »
I have noticed this year my boiler water temp seems to constantly creep up 10* to 15* over the high temp settings.  I started this year set at 180* and at 1 point I had a boil over. After that I reset the high temp to 170* and its been running fine except since then I've noticed the water temp creeps to 182/184* after the damper closes.  Could I have a problem with the aquastat or temp probe? The door gasket is fine, I eliminated that as the problem first thing.
Any suggestions?

7
Equipment / log hauling arch suggestions or plans
« on: January 01, 2017, 03:19:33 AM »
I'm looking to build a wheel arch to haul logs with my 4 wheeler.
any help or pictures would be appreciated   When I build one I'll post details & pictures.
thanks Clyde


8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: HELP Boilover CB5036
« on: December 20, 2016, 02:14:23 PM »
Thanks for the suggestions,  Good point about throwing snow in not being good.  I did notice the bottom edge where the boiler meets the door gasket looks thinner than the top & sides. I'll have to do something about that in the spring.  I'm just glad it didn't happen while I was asleep.

I am glad I have the X-300 set up to email me when there is high or low temps.  Luckily I was at my computer and the X-300 window popped up and warned me of the high temp.   
Thanks again
Clyde

9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / HELP Boilover CB5036
« on: December 20, 2016, 01:09:33 PM »
I just had the boiler run up to 214*  Luckily I added a fill line in the basement last summer (crisis averted for now). I wound up after adding water, throwing a shovel full of snow  into the firebox.  It seems to be acting normal for now.

The only thing I can think of is 30+ mph winds sucked air past the damper & over fired the unit.  The  door gasket is new in Oct the damper was replaced last year.

Any suggestions?

10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: CB 5036 LEAK question
« on: November 19, 2015, 07:14:40 PM »
Thanks to all who replied.   Leak is repaired   :photo: , boiler is refilled, wood loaded fired up and up to temp.
It wasn't as bad to repair as I thought, I'm glad I have the skill to do the repair myself.

It has been a long day, time for a hot shower then to relax & catch up on some Direct TV & early bedtime.

Thanks again  :)
Clyde

11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: CB 5036 LEAK question
« on: November 17, 2015, 01:27:00 PM »
Found it.....   Now to repair it.   Any suggestions?  patch size?  Patch thickness? Put a screw in the hole & weld it? 

tks
Clyde

12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / CB 5036 LEAK question
« on: November 17, 2015, 09:42:10 AM »
Help...
I noticed yesterday that the ash seemed wet on the lower left side of the firebox, I checked the water level and found it down about a inch from normal. I scraped the area as best I could (boiler still loaded) and didn't see any obvious leak. I am keeping a close eye on it. I am going to let it burn down to coals and maybe I can get a better look at the suspect area.  My question is there a common place on the left side near the door where leaks are found often?  What is the best way to check / find the leaking area if it is not obvious?  I have about a 1 week weather window to hope to find & repair the problem.

thanks in advance
Clyde

13
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Loading question
« on: January 07, 2015, 09:15:53 PM »
Daily I usually rake the charcoal to the top of the ash pile & bring it forward while scraping the sides of the firebox ashes deeper than the center.  Once every 2 weeks or so I rake the charcoal to the top of the ash pile then I push the charcoal to the back of the firebox then I remove 3 or 4 shovel full of fine ash (leaving at least 2-3 inches on the bottom) and then rake the charcoal back to the front of the firebox & re load the boiler for the evening.  This seems to work well for me but I'm open to suggestions & criticism.

Happy New Year
Clyde

14
Plumbing / Re: motorized 3 way diverter valve
« on: December 23, 2014, 06:41:46 AM »
I would like to be able to selectively bypass the HX on days when the outdoor temps are mild to prevent the temp in the house from becoming uncomfortably high . 
This would help me unnecessarily burning more wood than is required to maintain the home temp at a comfortable level.  I do this now manually with ball valves and can extend my burn times and lower my wood consumption.
I am looking for a valve like the one in the picture.
thanks
Clyde

15
Plumbing / OWB & Geothermal Heat Pump integration
« on: December 22, 2014, 03:50:44 PM »
What is the best way to have the geothermal heat pump use less electricity when Integrated with mo OWB?

When the thermostat calls for heat my geothermal heat pump activates the furnace blower and both the geothermal heat pump and my OWB heat exchanger supply hot air through the furnace plenum. My question is is there a way to have the geothermal unit run less when the OWB is supplying 180* to the heat exchanger.

Thanks
Clyde

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