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16

HeatMaster / Re: G400 Metal deterioration

« on: January 10, 2020, 12:56:49 PM »

I heard the moderators on that Outdoor Wood Boiler page used foul language a few times and really hurt traffic, I wonder why it has so many members and dozens of posts every day? Not much of a Facebook person myself, but peruse it on occasion to see what's happening. I did find it rather comical that some Richard fella was having a real bird about the foul language thing, like there are 5 year olds active on the page or something. Maybe that's the demise here too, probably a bunch of foul language keeping traffic low. The availability of instantaneous responses and phone app accessibility has no bearing on Facebook being higher traffic I'll bet.

But anyway, perhaps the person crying about the subject here should shut his yap about other people not helping the OP if he's not going to help himself. What was that old saying about a pot and a kettle again?

17

HeatMaster / Re: G400 Metal deterioration

« on: January 09, 2020, 04:33:21 PM »

Somebody get this clown a straightjacket

18

HeatMaster / Re: G400 Metal deterioration

« on: January 05, 2020, 02:58:45 PM »

I seem to recall an Andrew fella out East with a faulty stove a year or two ago that matches the description of this issue. Now, Mr Jim, are you referring to the ditch dug for the replacement line several feet uphill from the existing line that was a couple feet too short to reach the house? The ditch that was topographically higher than the old one? See, some of us would go with our gut and insist that water flows downhill which would have had it pooling against the house's foundation. Yet here you are, implying that a ditch with a higher elevation would, in fact, drain a lower ditch which happened to also be downhill from the "drainage" ditch. Would you care to explain the science behind drainage ditches defying gravity and forcing water to flow uphill? I'd LOVE to learn more about this (I'm a science geek) and I'll bet there are others that could benefit from the same knowledge.

19

Plumbing / Re: Wilo pumps

« on: December 18, 2019, 05:11:52 PM »

Have not had good luck with Wilo, even on closed systems. One of our suppliers sends Wilo with all of the Lochinvar and Slant Fin boilers we buy from them, and there hasn't been a darn one lasted more than a year. Most of them die within 6 months, a handful within a week. Bearings lock up on all

20

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: I need a good Ash Rake

« on: November 14, 2019, 04:05:32 PM »

Bolts, weld, vise grip, flex tape, use your imagination?

21

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: I need a good Ash Rake

« on: November 11, 2019, 05:35:30 PM »

Regular old garden hoe with a 3/4" EMT conduit handle would be the cat's meow I think. Very similar to what I use now but lighter

22

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Electric bill

« on: November 08, 2019, 07:23:24 PM »

Mine goes from $100 to $140 when I light the boiler. Something about spinning a few pumps and a draft fan all the time raises the bill I guess.

23

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Rehau underground pipe is almost impossible the bend

« on: November 07, 2019, 06:07:51 PM »

Deeper, 4ft is good but 6ft is better. Whatever jacket you stripped off, make sure that stays well above grade. The stuff is VERY resilient, I guarantee there isn't a ratchet strap in your possession that will wreck Insulpex. We had some 2 years ago get caught by a knife trencher underground (utility company) and pulled hard enough to tear it out of the concrete foundation wall 15 feet away while it was buried 2 ft down, literally bent 180 degrees, and it didn't crack the jacket. It is still in use today

24

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Classic Edge 750 Opinion

« on: October 20, 2019, 09:15:28 AM »

No thanks. This C is the last stove I buy. When it dies I'm going back to propane, maybe sooner than that

25

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Classic Edge 750 Opinion

« on: October 18, 2019, 06:07:32 PM »

Any boiler will be much happier and efficient when running flat out than sitting around idling a bunch, but gasifiers catch the brunt of it. A conventional there's some cushion and tolerance for idling and creosote, but gassers not so much. Creosote is the enemy to gasification stoves, they like clean and dry. I'm not a gasser owner myself, they aren't quite the right choice for a guy like me that doesn't perform cleaning and maintenance and I burn a lot of crap wood that would not be ideal for a gasser- so I cannot say with any experience what the savings are, but there are plenty of folks on this page and others that have cut their consumption in half by simply switching to a quality gasification stove.

26

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Classic Edge 750 Opinion

« on: October 16, 2019, 03:40:24 PM »

What are you heating that would require a stove so large as a 750? Gassers are VERY unhappy when oversized, this is a very important step in purchasing an OWB- gasser or not. Perhaps a 550 or even 350 would better suit your needs and your budget. With that said, I'm quite unimpressed with CB's method of welding dissimilar metals together in the Edge series as well as their unwillingness to fulfill any warranty claim whatsoever unless it's as simple as a controller or something. Not to mention their "dealer training" that essentially convinces dealers to do things wrong, and their agenda that includes simply ignoring and removing comments from those of us with questions and concerns about their shoddy construction methods. Not cool IMO

27

Plumbing / Re: Brass or Galvanized At Boiler

« on: September 17, 2019, 05:40:58 PM »

Do NOT use galvanized fitting in a hot water heating system. That's just asking for galvanic corrosion and a lifetime of leak chasing. Do yourself a favor and use either black malleable or brass fittings

28

Plumbing / Re: Question about my new system (is it designed well)

« on: September 13, 2019, 07:49:12 PM »

Generally, yes you would put all 3 exchangers in series in the primary loop. DHW first, then W2A coil, then the radiant plate before returning to the OWB. I would recommend a 30 plate HX in the 5x12 size with 1" ports. Your existing pump and mixing valve can be reused, you'd basically need to add an air eliminator and expansion tank along with a relief valve. As for the floor loops, odds are slim that there's much of an issue after only a year but when you close the system, I would recommend flushing each loop individually again to be sure it's clean. Domestic pressure will flow at a high enough velocity to suspend any particles and flush them through, while the Grundfos is merely a trickle in comparison so the particles will sink

29

Plumbing / Re: Question about my new system (is it designed well)

« on: September 12, 2019, 03:28:02 PM »

I concur that the radiant should be last, in that the temp requirement will be lower. I also concur that the radiant should be separated via a heat exchanger and pressurized. Unfortunately your garage loops have frozen (a byproduct of an open system) and will likely need to be abandoned. Repair is seldom possible without a complete fresh start. The reason atmospheric radiant systems suck, is that the slab is the low point in almost all systems and atmospheric systems WILL take on sediment, scale, oxidation/rust, and other foreign material from the atmosphere which eventually settles in the slab tubing due to low flow velocities and over time plugs up the loops rendering them useless. I see it all the time, and preach hard the importance of closed loop radiant. The "well it works for me" guys are everywhere, but from any standpoint hydronics, they are wrong if they say it's proper.

30

General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Repair of door mating surface question

« on: September 12, 2019, 03:17:33 PM »

I'm not familiar with that model, but most others utilize a single fan either in the door, or in the back that blows up through the grates sp having both is interesting. Crown Royal uses an updraft through the grates with a "turbo draft" that's basically tubes with holes drilled in them over the top of the fire blowing down at the same time the air is coming up so it may be similar to what you have going on. Too much air isn't usually a good thing as it will push more heat out the chimney instead of into your water, but not saying 2 air sources is bad. I think the 2 fans could be very beneficial, if tinkered with and balanced for optimal burn. Is there a rheostat somewhere on the unit to adjust fan speed? A few pictures of the boiler would be awesome, if possible