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[Scott7m]

Swede your one of the few that have got them to work properly

[lugnut]

Lug ya gotta figure out how to keep that temp from dropping down that low if you can..  It can cause your stove to wear out much faster according to some

Scott,

I imagine if I get up and outside by 0530, I can maintain the temps at above 113*, but the body says we're not getting up that early.  It's my understanding that the reason the boilers break down is because of creosote and moisture build up of which I have neither.  Now the other thing to take into consideration  the last three nights the temps have been in the minus category...such as Thursday night when I was outside putting wood in da box, it was a -11* and that wasn't even figuring in the windchill.  this morning the temp in the tank was 113*, but of course it was down in the - dbl digits again last night.

I'm NOT doubting anyone's word here, just giving y'all the facts as I get them.

Jerry

[lugnut]

Swede your one of the few that have got them to work properly

Ditto.......   

[Scott7m]

Lug nut, i was referring to wear and tear by the amount of o2 in the water..  At 180 there is none, and the lower the temp the more of it there is, this is what leads to the failure I was referring to, much more chances for rusting

[woodman]

Lug nut, i was referring to wear and tear by the amount of o2 in the water..  At 180 there is none, and the lower the temp the more of it there is, this is what leads to the failure I was referring to, much more chances for rusting

So what do you do about it during the off season?

[swede]

Swede your one of the few that have got them to work properly

Ditto.......   

Just got a 24 hour burn last night with the stock 165 - temps climbed to 20 and I loaded it full........ever had a thermostat fail on your electric water heater?  If installed properly there should be no problem.

[lugnut]

Swede your one of the few that have got them to work properly

Ditto.......   

Just got a 24 hour burn last night with the stock 165 - temps climbed to 20 and I loaded it full........ever had a thermostat fail on your electric water heater?  If installed properly there should be no problem.

Well obviously there was a problem because the t-stat directly from Shaver was junk.  I don't worry about that anymore since having the Ranco wired up.  Still don't see how you're getting that much burn time with that 165.  Most I've seen on heere with "any" OWF is maybe 14hrs and that's pushing it.  Oh well....less gas you have to use.   

[jimr]

Swede your one of the few that have got them to work properly

Ditto.......   

Just got a 24 hour burn last night with the stock 165 - temps climbed to 20 and I loaded it full........ever had a thermostat fail on your electric water heater?  If installed properly there should be no problem.

if i didn't own a 165 and have another 165 across the hill from me and 2 CBs and a hardy in the area and no body gets a 24hr burn, most are at or 14hr @20deg.
and if you are using the standard blower(slide) flap and not a sealed of damper door i don't see how this is possible with no or little control of the air getting to the fire,,,, my guess is you home is very well insulated and the heat demand is next to none.

[swede]

I know it sounds like bs.....really though there was enough unburned wood along the sides of the firebox to pull together for the day without adding.   Stove was filled with a very large load of wood and not as cold out as expected.  I expect 14+ hour burns in sub zero weather but when its warmer it uses much less wood and stove is at idle much of the time.

jimr, I agree with you.  Its not that the stove is so great but there are other variables that affect efficiency.  I believe that the Badger 5 wrap insulated line was a good investment and one off the biggest contributors to what is proving to be an efficient set up.   












 

 

[gandgracing]

I fill my stove only once a day, but its takin me a long time to get to this point.  I think the biggest problem alot of you are gonna find is that your cold water returns are some what recycling right back where the pumps draw from.  Those cold water returns need to be the farthest away from where your pumps draw from and Shaver just has them stubbed into the back and claim the pressure from the pumps will shoot all the way to the front of the stove.  If your furnace kicks on and then not to long after that your fan for the boiler kicks on then your not using all the available heat out of the stove.  My stove keeps up with only loading it once a day until its gets below 20*.  It is inside a woodshed and heats a house 2000sq. foot but also runs to a unit heater in my shop that I dont use cause its not insulated.  So its like I'm cycling it thru a freezer and I probably would be better off if I just did away with it but I use it on occasion.  It has the Ranco, blower mod with the 75cfm fan, cold water pipes running to the front, rear top opening plate is not there as I did away with that when I had new top and bottom steel replaced and it sits on top of concrete blocks for much easier loading with all new insulation including the bottom.  It also has 12 foot of double wall chimney pipe.  Using a 5" to 6" adaptor (about $5) fit right inside the chimney and hooks up to the 6" pipe.