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1
HeatMaster / G400 up and running!
« on: December 04, 2015, 02:42:43 PM »
I replaced my 5000e with a G400 a few weeks ago. I've had it up and running without any issues at all. I am very impressed with this boiler and right from the begining I regretted not going with one when I bought my 5000e. I have never ran a gasification boiler until now, but this furnace is extremely easy to use! As far as maintenance goes, it's as easy as loading the firebox and pulling a lever on the side of the furnace a few times. I could tell a HUGE difference in efficiency right from the beginning and I have been able to keep my 2200 sqft house at 72 and 36x45 shop at 70 with no issues at all. We haven't had much cold weather here yet but the night after I had it going it got down to around 14 deg. I got around 16 hours on less than a half load of walnut mixed with some junk wood! I am really enjoying not getting a face full of smoke every time I load the furnace also. The smoke bypass works VERY well on these units. I have built up a pretty thick coal bed of around 6 inches and so far it hasn't clogged the slot or effected the gasification process at all. I'll just be waiting around for some cold weather now so I can put it to the test. It's supposed to be in the 50's during the day for a while
![Wall Bash :bash:](http://outdoorwoodfurnaceinfo.com/forum/Smileys/default/wallbash.gif)
2
HeatMaster / Green Summer Special
« on: June 17, 2015, 08:25:36 AM »
Just a FYI for anyone who is considering purchasing a G Series furnace, HeatMaster is running their Green Summer Special right now until 15 July. Instant rebates of up to $1,600 at participating dealers.
Rebates are offered as follows:
G100 - $500
G200- $900
G400- $1,600
Rebates are offered as follows:
G100 - $500
G200- $900
G400- $1,600
3
Fire Wood / Slab Wood from a sawmill
« on: May 27, 2015, 12:13:53 PM »
Has anyone ever burnt slab wood from a sawmill in a gasser before? I'm curious as to how well it performs. I plan on running a G Series this season but I am behind on my wood supply this year. I can get some for free and can also buy 4x4x8 bundles at a place on my way home from work for $30. If anyone has used this type of wood before please let me know what your results were. Thanks!
4
Regulations / Final EPA ruling
« on: February 08, 2015, 07:56:22 PM »
I'm surprised I haven't seen any posts about the new regulations yet. The EPA published the new standards on the 3rd. They aren't as strict as they had proposed. It looks like all companies have less than 60 days left to build non qualified furnaces. All remaining units must be sold by December 31 2015. All phase 2 boilers meet the first phase (5 years) I believe. Check it out here: http://www2.epa.gov/residential-wood-heaters/fact-sheet-summary-requirements-wood-fired-hydronic-heaters
5
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / I need some help!
« on: December 30, 2014, 01:42:07 PM »
Ok folks, I need some help figuring out what is going on with my system. Here recently I can't get a good burn time to save my life! It was 15 deg last night and I only got about 7-8 hours on a entire load. I've burnt all kinds of different wood from Locust and Walnut that was 15% moisture content to some chinese elm and oak that isn't exactly seasoned. It doesn't seem to make much of a difference. So, here are the details of my setup.
HM 5000e, 85 ft of 1" Rehau running into my basement and then it transitions over to regular one inch pipe that is wrapped in bubble wrap insulation. Once the pipe enters the basement wall it goes about 20 ft and then drops down 3 FT to my 20 plate HX. Once it goes out of the plate exchanger it goes back up and through a hole in a wall and then back down about 8 ft to my furnace HX and then back up and over and back out to the boiler. I drew up my setup and attached the picture if it worked. In the picture I also drew up a close up of my plumbing at the water to air HX. The round rings represent ball valves. I'm using a badger GPD25-10SFC on medium (27 GPM and around 27 FT of head loss). Temp on my stove is set at 184 with a 7 deg differential. I've tried different settings and it doesn't seem to make much difference.
Ok, now a little bit about my house. It's right at about 2100 sq feet now with a new room addition that I'm working on. We keep it around 68-70 most of the time. Some of the windows are really drafty and the house really doesn't heat well. When the wind blows the right direction my furnace will kick on about every 5-10 min even when the outdoor temp is around 25 or so. I had a Hardy H2 and could easily get 10-12 hours on a load with it.
What I changed with the Heatmaster is replacing my junk lines, going from 3/4 pex to 1" Rehau and I added a plate exchanger for DHW. I was hoping that I would be able to heat my 36x45 garage as well but how it's going now it won't be able to keep up. I don't think it is the stove that's the problem, I think it's something in my setup. Please feel free to give me your opinions!
HM 5000e, 85 ft of 1" Rehau running into my basement and then it transitions over to regular one inch pipe that is wrapped in bubble wrap insulation. Once the pipe enters the basement wall it goes about 20 ft and then drops down 3 FT to my 20 plate HX. Once it goes out of the plate exchanger it goes back up and through a hole in a wall and then back down about 8 ft to my furnace HX and then back up and over and back out to the boiler. I drew up my setup and attached the picture if it worked. In the picture I also drew up a close up of my plumbing at the water to air HX. The round rings represent ball valves. I'm using a badger GPD25-10SFC on medium (27 GPM and around 27 FT of head loss). Temp on my stove is set at 184 with a 7 deg differential. I've tried different settings and it doesn't seem to make much difference.
Ok, now a little bit about my house. It's right at about 2100 sq feet now with a new room addition that I'm working on. We keep it around 68-70 most of the time. Some of the windows are really drafty and the house really doesn't heat well. When the wind blows the right direction my furnace will kick on about every 5-10 min even when the outdoor temp is around 25 or so. I had a Hardy H2 and could easily get 10-12 hours on a load with it.
What I changed with the Heatmaster is replacing my junk lines, going from 3/4 pex to 1" Rehau and I added a plate exchanger for DHW. I was hoping that I would be able to heat my 36x45 garage as well but how it's going now it won't be able to keep up. I don't think it is the stove that's the problem, I think it's something in my setup. Please feel free to give me your opinions!
6
HeatMaster / Thick black smoke
« on: December 18, 2014, 10:30:47 AM »
Ok guys, I've had my 5000e going since October. I really like the stove so far. Here recently though it's been puffing out some thick black smoke like I'm burning a tire! The only thing I can think of is that the fire isn't getting enough oxygen to allow for a complete burn. When I open the firebox door when the black smoke is coming out and while the blower is running, all of the gasses inside the stove ignite and the flames get bigger and the fire seems to burn much better. Once the door is closed back up though the smoke comes right back. I have emptied the ash drawer and cleaned some of the coal bed out because is was pretty thick. The next thing i was going to try is take the blower off of the stove and just verify that there isn't anything blocking the flow. I was just curious if anyone has had this issue or not. Thanks.
7
HeatMaster / Will this vent pipe work?
« on: December 04, 2014, 07:46:28 AM »
http://www.menards.com/main/heating-cooling/venting/wood-fireplace-stove-venting/insulated-double-wall-stove-venting/supervent-8-x-36-chimney-pipe/p-1323366-c-6894.htm
Does anyone know if the vent pipe in the link above will work on Heatmaster stoves? Everything I can find suggests that the Supervent brand is made my Selkirk. If you copy and past the Part number in Google it even comes up with a Selkirk website. I was just wondering if anyone had used this type of pipe on their stove.
Thanks.
Does anyone know if the vent pipe in the link above will work on Heatmaster stoves? Everything I can find suggests that the Supervent brand is made my Selkirk. If you copy and past the Part number in Google it even comes up with a Selkirk website. I was just wondering if anyone had used this type of pipe on their stove.
Thanks.
8
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Grounding OWB?
« on: November 19, 2014, 09:04:07 AM »
Has anyone ever heard that a owb should be grounded? Someone a friend of mine was talking to said that it should be grounded at the boiler to get rid of electrical current caused by the water flowing through the pipes? Sounds weird to be but I just figured I would ask.
9
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Mortar around Rehau?
« on: October 21, 2014, 01:31:01 PM »
Does anyone see any issues with putting mortar around Rehau Insulated pex where it enters a craw space? I have a friend that is working on his install. I didn't know if it would have any negative effects on the pipe over time? Thanks.
10
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Bigger Pump?
« on: October 15, 2014, 03:18:54 PM »
I've had my 5000e up and running for 15 days now. Everything is going great so far. I recently purchased a wireless meat thermometer and due to nast weather outside I decided that I would just go into my basement and attach it as apposed to hooking it up outside at the stove. I taped it to my water to air HX connections (supply and return). I let it sit for a few minutes, got the reading from the thermometer and then went and checked my stove temp. They were within 1-2 degrees which tells me that I am getting a fairly accurate reading from the thermometer.
Anyway, the other night I was doing the dishes and I happened to look at my thermometer unit that I have sitting on my counter. The air HX is hooked up after the plate exchanger and the supply line on the HX was reading 140's. My stove is set on 185 with a 14 deg differential.
I have about a 125 ft run with 1" pex, 20 plate HX to my air HX and then back to the stove. I have a Grundfos 15-58 running on HI. From what I hear, return temps of more than a 20 degree difference is hard on a stove. Do I need a bigger pump or maybe a mixing valve at the stove? Thanks!
Anyway, the other night I was doing the dishes and I happened to look at my thermometer unit that I have sitting on my counter. The air HX is hooked up after the plate exchanger and the supply line on the HX was reading 140's. My stove is set on 185 with a 14 deg differential.
I have about a 125 ft run with 1" pex, 20 plate HX to my air HX and then back to the stove. I have a Grundfos 15-58 running on HI. From what I hear, return temps of more than a 20 degree difference is hard on a stove. Do I need a bigger pump or maybe a mixing valve at the stove? Thanks!
11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Got my stove going last week
« on: October 07, 2014, 09:15:44 AM »
I finally got my new 5000e hooked up last Friday. So far everything is going pretty good, just trying to get a good coal bed in the stove. I never had my Hardy hooked up to my DHW but I decided to do it with this stove. I can't believe how well it heats my water! I am going to buy a mixing valve since I have a 7 year old and the water coming out of my tap is 145 deg.
So here's my setup: MF5000e, about 85 ft from my 2000 sq ft house. 85 ft of rehau ran to the house (still have to hook my 1600 sq ft garage up). I ran 50 ft of 1" pex from where the rehau enters my basement and wrapped it with the reflective bubble wrap insulation. Pex comes in the house and goes through a 20 plate then continues to a 18x24 HX in my furnace then back out to the stove.
I still need to backfill my trench all the way where my lines are burried but so far it has been doing ok on wood I guess. Without hardly any heat load on the stove at all (outside temp 65) it sat idle for a little over 2:15. What is the average idle time for you guys? I would think it would idle for longer than that without a load on the stove? I have no idea what my temp loss in my underground lines but I would hope it would be very minimal with the reahu and especially since it is such mild weather right now. I have noticed that it recovers very well though.
I'm excited for the colder temps so I can really test it out. Right now I'm basically just heating my water and the house every once in a while.
Happy Heating!
So here's my setup: MF5000e, about 85 ft from my 2000 sq ft house. 85 ft of rehau ran to the house (still have to hook my 1600 sq ft garage up). I ran 50 ft of 1" pex from where the rehau enters my basement and wrapped it with the reflective bubble wrap insulation. Pex comes in the house and goes through a 20 plate then continues to a 18x24 HX in my furnace then back out to the stove.
I still need to backfill my trench all the way where my lines are burried but so far it has been doing ok on wood I guess. Without hardly any heat load on the stove at all (outside temp 65) it sat idle for a little over 2:15. What is the average idle time for you guys? I would think it would idle for longer than that without a load on the stove? I have no idea what my temp loss in my underground lines but I would hope it would be very minimal with the reahu and especially since it is such mild weather right now. I have noticed that it recovers very well though.
I'm excited for the colder temps so I can really test it out. Right now I'm basically just heating my water and the house every once in a while.
Happy Heating!
12
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Sharkbite guages
« on: October 02, 2014, 09:17:32 AM »
Has anyone used these guages before? It seems pretty cheap for a Sharkbite fitting.
http://www.altheatsupply.com/shop-by-needs/outdoor-wood-furnace-parts/thermostats-gauges/sharkbite-pressure-gauge.html
http://www.altheatsupply.com/shop-by-needs/outdoor-wood-furnace-parts/thermostats-gauges/sharkbite-pressure-gauge.html
13
Plumbing / plate exchanger plumbing
« on: September 27, 2014, 08:40:38 PM »
I have a 20 plate exchanger made by Brent industries that I will hopefully be hooking up tomorrow. I have identified the connections by blowing in one end and feeling what connection it comes out of. My question is does it matter which ones I use for my dhw and which ones I use for my boiler water? I don't see why it would matter but just figured I would ask. There's no markings or anything on it. Thanks.
14
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Question on install
« on: September 08, 2014, 09:10:30 AM »
I'm in the process of re-doing my system. I'm replacing everything except for my heat exchangers. My questions is, I will be replacing my 3/4" line with 1 Inch. My 3/4" connects to the 1" in/outlets on the HX in my furnace. I have a reducer on the HX that takes it from 1 to 3/4 and then there is about 5 inches of 3/4 copper pipe that then connects to my 3/4" pex. I really don't want to mess with taking the reducer off and soldering a 1' coupling on. So what I was wanting to know is if the short lenght of 3/4 copper will reduce my water flow enough to hurt the performance of my system? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
15
HeatMaster / Secondary Air Injection?
« on: August 28, 2014, 09:16:41 AM »
Did Heatmaster change their design recently? Some of the websites I have looked at mention a secondary air injection in the 5000e but mine doesn't have that. It's a 2013 model. Just curious....