Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
All-Purpose OWF Discussions => Plumbing => Topic started by: koutsman on November 02, 2010, 07:39:56 AM
-
I know there have been discussions about this before but I couldn't find anything about this through SEARCH.
I have a friend who is installing a boiler and asked me to find out for him
-
I run the pump on our OWB 24/7 Oct. through June.
-
I run mine 24/7 all year, seems to do fine. I have been told that it's better to have the pump run all the time than to have it start and stop..
-
Pump on my furnace runs 24/7 until I shut furnace down for the summer
-
I run mine 24/7 all year, seems to do fine
-
24/7 during heating season.. it should be a must if heating your hot water I would think..
-
Both pumps run 24/7 for me also (only during heating season)
-
24/7 here too. I hear that it's better for the boiler too.
-
All mine are on demand. i feel its less wood used. garage has 2 way switch to go 24/7 if needed.
-
I run mine 24/7. That way the water does not cool and I have to wait 10+ minutes for the hot water to reach the cold radiator. It takes long enough to warm the cold air in my ducts before reaching the living areas. My wife always asks if it's working right because of the cold air rush at first. It's the 100 year old house that does not work right , the burner works just fine. It very well may take more wood, small price to pay compared to freezing wife. Cold wife = chewed ears
-
My circulator runs 24/7 for my main loop. I have it on the "low" setting (it's a 3 speed grundfos). I consider it my accidental freeze protection because it runs through my sidearm exchanger 24/7 as well. My zone valve for the coil in the plenum will close if the water temp is below 120 degrees, so at least my heat pump won't be heating up the water in my boiler if I let the fire go out.
oldchenowth, if the air is cold in your ducts for a while before your coil can heat it up enough, it's not a house issue, it's a duct issue. Either it's not properly sized or properly run, or you have a lot of uninsulated ductwork in unconditioned areas. My house is 135 years old, very drafty, and poorly insulated. But, I just had all new ductwork put in properly sized to keep up air velocity to all the vents and everything in unconditioned spaces is insulated. Hot air comes out my vents by the time my air handler ramps up.
-
I run mine 24/7 also
-
run it 24/7, but i have an aquastat on mine that shuts the circulator off at a set temp(145) that assumes the wood fire went out. I also have a refrigeration aquastat that brings the circulator back on at a set temp(50) as a way to prevent freeze up.
-
Has anyone done the calculation to see what this cost to run pumps 24/7 ? I can see how it would be beneficial for DHW but seams like a waste. I am a cheap 8*5&tadr and get upset when the fire is out and the draft fan is out there just blowing cold air into the stove. JMO.
-
Most of the pumps I use run anywhere from 65 to 110 watts. I guess leaving them run would be like leaving a light bulb on 24/7.
-
Has anyone done the calculation to see what this cost to run pumps 24/7 ? I can see how it would be beneficial for DHW but seams like a waste. I am a cheap 8*5&tadr and get upset when the fire is out and the draft fan is out there just blowing cold air into the stove. JMO.
It isn't very hard to figure out. Just divide 1000 the wattage of the pump of the pump.
If you have an 85 watt pump you would do 1000 / 85 = 11.76 hours per KWH
So approximately 2 KWH per day. I think the average rate is $0.10 per KWH so $6 per month running continuous.
If you have a larger pump (taco 001, grundfos 26-96, etc) it is about $15 per month.