Outdoor Wood Furnace Info
Outdoor Furnaces - Manufacturers with NON EPA-Certified Models Only => Shaver Furnace => Topic started by: ambonci on August 28, 2014, 06:32:57 PM
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removed all the old insulation and I am reinsulating it with good stuff. what does everyone recommend? looking for some help on what to do, gotta be better then what was in there. thanks in advance
Adam
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If you can find it, try the mineral wool insulation. Just like fiberglass insulation except it's literally spun like cotton candy from molten slag from the steel mills. Fire, water, and rodent proof.
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Adam,
The sides are a R22 I believe and the top R 49. What is the problem with your insulation?
Greg Steinacher
618-401-0726
www.midwestoutdoorfurnace.com (http://www.midwestoutdoorfurnace.com)
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Greg,
the top got wet a few years ago and I would like to try and upgrade it a little if possible. If I cant then ill just put the same stuff back on but new. Really im just trying to improve boiler little by little that's all. greg do you have a plumbing diagram of hooking the hot water heater up using one loop for heat and water using different heat exchangers. I know we had the discussion last year about my hotwater. im going to add a plate exchanger to my hot water and bypass the coil in the stove. you have my email if you need to send some.
Thanks
Adam
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My buddy has a shaver 165. He took off all of the skin around the boiler and put 2 inch foam board all around the sides and then screwed the sides back on. He tried to use foam board on top but between the steam escaping from that stupid water coil hole in the back and placing the foam a little to close to the chimney he was able to destroy most of the foam he had put on top. I would seal that big hole on the back up so it didnt leak steam and the carefully place the foam on top not getting to close to the flue.
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it was just regular board foam insulation? it doesn't melt on the sides at all?
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Yes it was Blue Dow Rigid 2" foam board. The sides only get to 180*. Not nearly hot enough to melt foam. CB and some other manufacturers Spray Foam there units. I had my Hardy spray foamed as well.
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ok that's what I was thinking. did he think it helped out? im just wondering what kind of r rating I can get out of foam board. im gonna check into that I guess.
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Foam board is R6 per inch I believe. That means that you would get an R12 on the sides if you do a good install fitting it nice and tight. On the top I would actually recommend Fiberglass as long as you can keep in steam from getting up into that space. Fiberglass is USELESS if it gets wet. Not wet it is actually has decent R value at around r3 per inch. Most of the heat from the stove is lost out of the top so insulate up to well. He melted the foam on top last year and was getting terrible burns times until he realized what had happened. When the foam melted it basically just disappeared and he had not insulation.
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ok thanks Honda racer. my father-in-law actually has blue dow rigid foam board and r value on that is 10 so maybe its 20 total, dunno. im going to put that on the sides and mineral wool on top. probably 2 layers on top. thanks for all the help.
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Just looked it up, blue dow rigid foam board is R5 per inch so that is r10 if the board is 2 inch thick. Are you talking about Rockwool from Roxul? That stuff is pretty good, much better at moisture resistance then fiberglass.
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Could be Rockwool, I haven't found a distributor yet but plan on using it on both my waste oil boiler and the new wood boiler.
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Hondaracer,
That stupid hole as you call it is supposed to be caulked shut, have your buddy read the manual!
ambonci,
You say you are wanting to do away with the built in domestic coil and put in a plate exchanger. Why isn't the one in the furnace working for you?
Greg Steinacher
618-401-0726
www.midwestoutdoorfurnace.com (http://www.midwestoutdoorfurnace.com)
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well I purchased a bundle of r-30 roxul today. cost around $40 for the bundle. I bought it at lowes, not sure if it matters but those guys said its top of the line insulation right now. he also showed me foil back foam board r-7 per inch, total of 14. so we will see mlappin have you looked at lowes or anything for the roxul?
Greg, I am doing away with the coil. I have 3 kids and use lots of hot water and it just can not keep up with my demand. I am going to order plate exchanger this week. ive already started caping lines on back of stove to delete the coil. I am also gonna weld a full piece of steel in the access panel where coil was.
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Last time I was remodeling Lowes only had fiberglass, might have it now, could also be a regional thing. 84 Lumber in our area is supposed to carry it according to Roxwools website.
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ambonci,
The way you had your domestic hooked up, did you have a pump on the hot water heater and a thermostat? Just trying to figure out why it did not keep up?
Greg Steinacher
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Greg yes I did. for the $ its gonna cost im gonna have better hot water and endless amounts of it. just ordered the plate exchanger.
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I finally got the stove all back together. I insulated the bottom with R30 Roxul. The sides, front and rear I used foil faced R14 foam board. also used the foam board in the rear access door. I insulated the top with Roxul R30 from the top of the stove to the top of the tin roof. enclosing all the air space ontop and around the chimney. Im hoping that it helps, has to be better then the stock junk.
I also removed the hot water coil and welded it all shut, silicone it all up nice so my steam out the back issue should be cured.
Any opinions?
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the insulation job looks great!! I set my furnace on 8" block so I don't have to bend over to load it. I was planning on insulating underneath now you gave me a little inspiration!!
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Thanks, I haven't fired stove up yet im running behind. I have to finish my new wood shed this weekend then get to splitting. Im hoping next weekend to make smoke. Good luck on your insulating fun. you will not regret it.