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1231
Heatmor / Re: Heatmor question
« on: February 25, 2017, 03:23:51 AM »Thanks for the replies. Could this be a non 409 SS stove? Do not want to get burned(PUN)!!!
They started using 409 in the mid-early 90's, I think. 409 is very tough stuff. Moisture and rainwater won't hurt it sitting around.
However it can pit out in spots if it has been run with no water treatment. If they can prove they've treated and tested the value of the unit doubles.
Run some water through it- if it comes out brown it probably has sludge in the bottom and didn't have adequate treatment.
1232
Plumbing / Re: ready for some help with expansion
« on: February 24, 2017, 04:18:18 PM »Yes, that would be better. Otherwise you will have to increase the flow through the house which will just use more energy to pump and put more wear on the system.
I agree. Especially since now we are designing it to be able to pull two buildings on the second line.
If the outbuilding loop is teed in before the house loop (on the single outlet)and if the outbuilding loop starts and stops it will need a check valve in it to prevent the house loop from making it flow backward. If both run continuously then no check valve is needed.
1233
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Which OWB
« on: February 24, 2017, 02:32:04 PM »
I didn't mean to sound critical of the unit itself or P&M. I just thought that with him being in Washington State he needs to make sure that it for sure did pass. I think I've heard that Washington is one of the tightest states out there and has restrictions beyond even the epa.
1235
Plumbing / Re: ready for some help with expansion
« on: February 24, 2017, 09:37:06 AM »Does the boiler not have 2 sets of connections? If it does, using them would be better than teeing off the house connections.
If it doesn't then tees on supply before pump and return is the next best option.
1236
HeatMaster / Re: 10,000 mfe
« on: February 24, 2017, 09:13:37 AM »
The EPA law requires that they state that the warranty is void if you burn unapproved fuels. Any make or model. Any manufacturer is supposed to say that now. Don't know if they all do.
You'll be fine with your 10e, just don't overload it and you won't burn any more wood than a smaller unit.
You'll be fine with your 10e, just don't overload it and you won't burn any more wood than a smaller unit.
1237
Plumbing / Re: ready for some help with expansion
« on: February 24, 2017, 09:07:13 AM »
What I meant by a standpipe is just a vertical section of pipe teed off in one of the buildings to act as a small reservoir to fill with glycol. So scrap that idea.
I'd just pump direct off the stove outlet to the buildings.
I'd just pump direct off the stove outlet to the buildings.
1238
Plumbing / Re: ready for some help with expansion
« on: February 23, 2017, 06:41:11 PM »
Just thinking here....
If you wanted to do antifreeze in the buildings you probably could put a standpipe teed off the loop in the outbuildings. Would function the same as the fill pipe on the stove. Pump away from that point through a flat plate on the house return, then through the buildings and back to the standpipe. Just fill the standpipe with a water/glycol mix.
Then the house loop would need the bigger pump to supply enough flow for everything.
If you wanted to do antifreeze in the buildings you probably could put a standpipe teed off the loop in the outbuildings. Would function the same as the fill pipe on the stove. Pump away from that point through a flat plate on the house return, then through the buildings and back to the standpipe. Just fill the standpipe with a water/glycol mix.
Then the house loop would need the bigger pump to supply enough flow for everything.
1240
Plumbing / Re: ready for some help with expansion
« on: February 23, 2017, 03:16:17 PM »
So from what you are saying you would like to basically reroute the return line through the buildings... except it's buried. Correct? I wouldn't splice underground!
Since you have the rehau already buried from the furnace to the first building (I think?) I'd tee off before the house pump (to get full temp water) and pump a primary loop through both outbuildings, teeing off secondary loops for infloor, cast rads (which have to start and stop anyway) or whatever. You probably can catch the air handler coil(s) in the building(s) in that loop if they're not too big and strip off too much heat. If you don't want to run pipe to the second building you can extend it later as Pex is very easy to work with.
If you want to get fancy you could with several relays you could make the "outbuilding primary loop" pump come on only when the air handlers , infloor, etc are actually calling for heat. Basically you'd have one relay per "zone" sending the same 120v. power into that main pump that pushes the loop.
Or just let it run! That would be much easier.
Wondering what RSI and others think tho.
Since you have the rehau already buried from the furnace to the first building (I think?) I'd tee off before the house pump (to get full temp water) and pump a primary loop through both outbuildings, teeing off secondary loops for infloor, cast rads (which have to start and stop anyway) or whatever. You probably can catch the air handler coil(s) in the building(s) in that loop if they're not too big and strip off too much heat. If you don't want to run pipe to the second building you can extend it later as Pex is very easy to work with.
If you want to get fancy you could with several relays you could make the "outbuilding primary loop" pump come on only when the air handlers , infloor, etc are actually calling for heat. Basically you'd have one relay per "zone" sending the same 120v. power into that main pump that pushes the loop.
Or just let it run! That would be much easier.
Wondering what RSI and others think tho.
1241
Plumbing / Re: ready for some help with expansion
« on: February 23, 2017, 01:15:51 PM »
That's funny, my wife loves the two cast radiators we have in the basement. They make wonderful clothes dryers.
To give advice on how to plumb for the second outbuilding it would be nice to have an overview on which directions the buildings are from the furnace and distances. My guess is you'll have to make some kind of supply and return manifolds on the furnace so each building can get full temp water. But if space in the back of the furnace is an issue then maybe a primary loop to the first outbuilding with a manifold to pump other directions might be easier.
Just not enough info to know quite what to say.
To give advice on how to plumb for the second outbuilding it would be nice to have an overview on which directions the buildings are from the furnace and distances. My guess is you'll have to make some kind of supply and return manifolds on the furnace so each building can get full temp water. But if space in the back of the furnace is an issue then maybe a primary loop to the first outbuilding with a manifold to pump other directions might be easier.
Just not enough info to know quite what to say.
1242
HeatMaster / Re: 10,000 mfe
« on: February 23, 2017, 11:55:11 AM »
The test date is the date they did the UL test for that model. The other date is when that particular unit was manufactured.
They started using the timer when they retested with the oval firebox for 2016. These can still be shipped into the US for commercial installation.
It can be rewired to have a timer but it's not a "plug it in" type of thing.
But usually for wood burning just a bit more air leakage is all you need.
They started using the timer when they retested with the oval firebox for 2016. These can still be shipped into the US for commercial installation.
It can be rewired to have a timer but it's not a "plug it in" type of thing.
But usually for wood burning just a bit more air leakage is all you need.
1243
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Drummer cord wood boiler. Wow!
« on: February 23, 2017, 05:30:41 AM »
Perfect candidate for a chip burner. You really need to look into that. I think it's a whole new market.
1244
Plumbing / Re: ready for some help with expansion
« on: February 22, 2017, 08:42:44 PM »
I really doubt you'll need a flat plate/pressurized system to push air down only16'. We do attic air handlers quite often and they're more than 20'. Just plumb a way to use your well pump to blow it out the first time. Believe me a garden hose connection can save hours of purging.
And if you tee off the return from the house put a ball valve between the tees to use the house pump to help push the first time. Then leave the valve open.
Keep the pumps low and push rather than pull water.
Are we giving too many options yet ? Chuckle.
And if you tee off the return from the house put a ball valve between the tees to use the house pump to help push the first time. Then leave the valve open.
Keep the pumps low and push rather than pull water.
Are we giving too many options yet ? Chuckle.
1245
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Drummer cord wood boiler. Wow!
« on: February 22, 2017, 08:12:09 PM »
A lot! Like half almost. 
So far the one on my brothers sawmill is running great. Turbs got tight from burning sopping wet chips left out in the rain. Will have to work at cleaning them this spring. But wow, 500,000 btu's nonstop. Feed augers haven't jammed once all winter.
So far the one on my brothers sawmill is running great. Turbs got tight from burning sopping wet chips left out in the rain. Will have to work at cleaning them this spring. But wow, 500,000 btu's nonstop. Feed augers haven't jammed once all winter.