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Messages - E Yoder

Pages: 1 ... 82 83 [84] 85 86 87
1246
Plumbing / Re: Plate heat exchanger for DHW.
« on: February 22, 2017, 08:07:34 PM »
Or run it and see if it trips. If it does you can redo things later.

1247
Plumbing / Re: Plate heat exchanger for DHW.
« on: February 22, 2017, 04:00:51 PM »
Yeah, that's low.  never saw that low before.
. You might have to turn the pump speed down on the stove loop (that's if it's a 3 speed) to drop the domestic output temp. A 5X12 HX would really trip it quick. Sidearm would be a lot worse.

1248
Plumbing / Re: Plate heat exchanger for DHW.
« on: February 22, 2017, 12:23:12 PM »
Is your snap disc high limit at 130 or just the temp setting that the electric goes up to? That seems very low.
What size plate exchanger do you have? Dimensions and plates.
It'll take a big one with a lot of flow from the stove to make 160 degree water.

1249
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Drummer cord wood boiler. Wow!
« on: February 22, 2017, 09:21:05 AM »
I thought the Lopper Drummer was made in Germany. With a North American distributor perhaps?

1250
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Drummer cord wood boiler. Wow!
« on: February 22, 2017, 08:30:26 AM »
I'm wondering where they got such nice even wood... :)
Cool  idea on the auto loader. And pricey too I bet.


The G and C Series firebox is tapered wider at the bottom especially on the smaller units. Most people don't notice.
I think the Drummer units are rated with storage doing batch burning which is a different system and test method. I could be wrong about that but most European gassers are.
I'm not saying that in criticism, just that the test method changes the #'s.

1251
Plumbing / Re: Plate heat exchanger for DHW.
« on: February 22, 2017, 08:25:14 AM »
I've never had a high limit trip doing it the preheating way, but I don't use huge flat plates like some guys do.

1252
HeatMaster / Re: 10,000 mfe
« on: February 22, 2017, 08:14:14 AM »
There is a limit to how low you can turn the draft down tho. At some point creosote takes over. Every unit has its sweet spot. The MF units are purposely slightly overfired to compensate for the guys who let ash build up thick on the grate.

1253
Plumbing / Re: Plate heat exchanger for DHW.
« on: February 22, 2017, 07:20:18 AM »
I've always cut the cold line entering the water heater and routed it through the flat plate. The reason for this is the hot water entering the water heater holds the electric off so you have auto backup. Also running it through the tank keeps you from noticing fluctuations in temp due to changes in flow rate through the flat plate (multiple hot water uses throughout the house).
I've found you need to take about two showers per day to replenish the tank temps so if you only have one person living there then you might have to put it on the hot side and turn off the electric. And when you turn on the electric in the summer be sure to turn off the stove pump if you're not burning to avoid cooling your domestic water.

So there's more than one right way, but I normally preheat the tank for simplicity.
And you'll love your unlimited hot water! We did a 3X8" 30 plate doing domestic hot water for a fraternity house once and they'd do 30-40 showers back to back . Would burn an MF10,000 firebox load of wood in 4 hours!

1254
Plumbing / Re: ready for some help with expansion
« on: February 22, 2017, 05:18:10 AM »
I agree with RSI, the tank isn't needed.

Using flat plate on the house return to separate the garage loop to put glycol in it would be fairly simple if the building has a chance of freezing during a power outage. Otherwise I'd just put two tees in the back of the boiler and pump a continuous loop to the upstairs air handler in the garage. Those tees would ideally pull full temp boiler water but catching house return water could work for intermittent heating. Upsizing the house pump would depend on return temps while house heat is running.
Then you'd have another set of close tees on the return of the garage air handler loop that would allow you to pump the garage floor pulling through a mixing valve. It's low temp so return water is still hot enough.

The only concern I would have is that if the garage is pulling off the house loop your return temp after the garage could at times be pretty low. Might cause  a condensation corrosion problem if your furnace is mild steel and the return hits one spot on the firebox. I'm not sure how the return enters your unit. I've never worried about that on the 409 units I've done.

Basically I'm agreeing with RSI and others, just rambling on about options. :)

1255
Portage & Main / Re: Huffin and puffin
« on: February 22, 2017, 04:51:38 AM »
Sometimes it's too much secondary air, not enough primary. There's not enough air coming through the coal bed to send a steady jet of flame up into the firebox. Then it flashes- chugs along a bit- flashes again. Intermittent ignition. Small very dry wood makes a rich fuel mixture which like was said requires much more air.
There's nothing like a good "huff" to clean out the flues tho!

1256
HeatMaster / Re: 10,000 mfe
« on: February 21, 2017, 07:35:31 PM »
180, 10 degree diff. on the ranco control.

1257
HeatMaster / Re: 10,000 mfe
« on: February 21, 2017, 05:37:41 PM »
It could be done if you wanted to do some rewiring. The ranco control would be one route the power could go from the rocker switch to the high limit, timer could be a second route. High limit feeds to the fan and solenoid.

Adding some air leakage by drilling a hole below the solenoid flap might be all he needs though, and much cheaper. I'd try that first.


1258
Plumbing / Re: Plate heat exchanger for DHW.
« on: February 21, 2017, 10:48:57 AM »
One thing I've noticed with low flow rates through a hot air exchanger (coil) is if you counter flow the water so the hottest manifold is at the downstream side if the airflow it can run quite a bit hotter air temps. Same principle applies in any HX but I've been surprised how much that helps.
Usually I run into air problems tho if it goes too low. Can't pick up the air and slap it through a big coil.

Good idea RSI, I should try a loop with and without the flat plate. Would be interesting.

1259
HeatMaster / Re: 10,000 mfe
« on: February 21, 2017, 10:35:27 AM »
Great. Happy wood burners is what we want!

1260
Plumbing / Re: Plate heat exchanger for DHW.
« on: February 20, 2017, 06:04:52 PM »
Pushing heat into a low temp system like a heat pump or low temp radiant is so easy. You can run huge Dt's and small pumps and it heats wonderfully. Big houses heated on 3-4 gpm. The job I did today had a 2 1/2 ton heat pump and a 5 ton heat pump. I doubt I had more than 5 gpm. But it heated very nicely, with a 30-ish degree Dt.
Copper baseboard is a whole nother animal! Tight Dt, High temps.
:)

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