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Messages - Crossir

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1
Plumbing / Re: Circulator pump noise
« on: February 03, 2016, 07:21:51 AM »
I wanted to add an update to my original post/question. I moved the circulator from the basement to the back of the boiler last weekend. That eliminated all noises no matter what the water temps are. You can hardly hear the hum of the motor and no water noise at all. Thanks for the advise, I would of never thought of the lower vapor point in a vacuum.

2
Plumbing / Re: Circulator pump noise
« on: January 12, 2016, 05:15:38 AM »
Thanks for all great info. Slim, the only thing that may restrict the flow in my lines are the fittings that go on the 40mm logstor. I went with the Watts mechanical (single bolt) fittings. They have a much smaller ID than I realized when I ordered them.

3
Plumbing / Re: Circulator pump noise
« on: January 11, 2016, 07:31:58 AM »
Ok, so I have a ball valve about 50' away on the return, I need to close it about half way before the noise goes away. Also I noticed if I turn the circulator off for a few seconds then back on, it runs smooth for about 20 seconds before the rumbling starts to build again. And yes, every time the water temps swing I get the same noises. I am guessing it is cavatiton but don't you need some air for that to happen? Anyway, other than moving the pump closer to the boiler, is there any other options? Will cavatation damage the pump, if yes,how much time do I have?

4
Plumbing / Re: Circulator pump noise
« on: January 11, 2016, 03:17:40 AM »
The system is new, up and running for 10 days.

5
Plumbing / Circulator pump noise
« on: January 10, 2016, 06:43:55 PM »
Well I have a question on my circulator pump. I have a Taco 0011 stainless steel pump. It seems that at lower water temps 150-160 it runs quiet and smooth. As the water temps climb to the upper limit the pump sounds rough, like it I has air in it or not getting enough water flow to it. Basically I have s 600' loop and the pump is at the mid way point in my basement. The one way breakdown is; 10'-1 1/2 black iron, 240'-40mm  logstor, 45'- 1 1/2" pex, 10'-1 1/4" copper, 1-5"X10"X50 plate exchanger. I appreciate any information.

6
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Re: Wrong underground pipe, now what?
« on: September 01, 2015, 06:34:38 PM »
 Well the distributer made right on the miscommunication/misinformation deal on the 32mm. They are going to refund 100% cost plus the shipping charges. Thanks for all the help in trying to make this situation work. The 32mm may have been enough but I wasnt comfortable putting all that time and money in the ground and it be just short. Anyways, I thank the distributor again for making right and you all for the help. I will be posting here when the next problem arises and I need professional advice.

7
Thanks for all the feedback. Here is the current situation. Slim, I miss spoke (typed), the 240' plus the 45' inside is a one way distance. My house is an old 1850's 3800 sq. ft. Farm house with some miner updates done in the 40's then some other updates done in the 70's. I would like to make sure that there is enough GPMs to add on some extra load, especially the basement where the old inside wood boiler put off lots of radiant heat to satisfy that space. The 32mm is not installed yet. When I called today and asked the supplier of the 32mm what the inside ID is, they again told me that it was 1.26. They would sell it again to some other poor, uninformed sap! After informing them that I just purchased 240' of thier  so called 1.26 ID pex, they offered me  $300 to pay for a bigger pump. So it's not a done deal yet, hopefully they will work with me and offer a refund of some sort. What would be the price of a pump to meet this demand on a 1" line? With it not being pressurized, would it cause any premature pump failure due to cavatiation or anything else of that nature.

8
If I am reading the flow charts right, and I may not be so please correct me if needed.
1 gpm= 10000 btuh
With a 20 degree  temp drop I should be in the neighborhood of needing 150000 btuh.
With 130000 btuh of fin tube and DHW I should need at least 15 gpm.

9
It was figured that I have roughly 130,000 btuh of fin tube in the house. So I would need that plus our domestic hot water. My plan was to run 1.25 underground and inside the basement to the hx. Then I was going to use mono flows for a smaller hx to heat the  Dhw. Total run, 240' outside and another 45' in the basement to the oil furnace. Also I would want to figure any loss for the wye strainers. Thanks for any advice.

10
For Sale / 32mm (approx. 1") rehau underground pipe
« on: August 29, 2015, 09:30:24 AM »
I have 240' of 32mm rehau underground pipe for sale, it's new still in the shipping bands. I need a full 1.25" supply and return. I am located in central New York (Utica area).

11
General Outdoor Furnace Discussion / Wrong underground pipe, now what?
« on: August 29, 2015, 09:21:49 AM »
Well I screwed up big time! I purchased the Rehau 32mm pipe under the assumption that it was 1.26 ID. I was getting info both ways that it was only about an inch ID or that it was 1.26 ID. Well we all know what happens when you assume! I decided to take a gamble and lost. Anyway, I have 240' of 32mm (about 1 inch ID) for sale at a good price in central New York if anyone is in the market.

12
Portage & Main / Re: Running optimizer 250
« on: February 16, 2014, 07:05:09 AM »
I would also be interested in seeing a few boilers in action. I am a little further west of the Albany area, about an hour and a half. I believe there is a farm show at the syracuse fairgrounds next weekend and a lot of different owb manufacturers are usually there. Does any one know if there will be any Portage and Main dealers there?

13
Wow! I just joined the forum today to get advise on this very subject. I am in the market for an owb and have it narrowed down to the P&M gasser or a CB gasser. The size or model number is yet to be determined. I live in central NY so an EPA phase 2 is a must. I had a Classic 5648 at our old house and loved it (grandfathered in). So, I would be heating a 3700 sq. ft. house that was built in 1850's. Windows and insulation have been updated around 20 years ago. Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

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